When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just picked up my vehicle today and could clearly see that it has a new PS reservoir (implies new fluid too). The service agent told me that 100% the pump was changed too. Too bad that the "wanna-be-supercharger-whine-noise" is still very present. Was told that the transmission mount (rubber "doughnut" in the middle of a crossmember near the rear of the transmission, close to the transfer case) was changed too. That said, I'm taking it to an indy shop on Monday (Porsche factory trained mechanic, used to be chief technician at the local dealership until a few months ago) and will have him verify that in fact the PS pump has been in fact changed as well as the transmission mount as the vehicle feels exactly the same way as when I left it there on Monday.
He will perform a transmission oil and filter change (just because it's 10 years old and has 45K miles on it) as well as transfer case oil change (cheap insurance, no symptoms present). Will also have the serpentine belt, two pulleys, and the tensioner changed (maybe that is the source of the obnoxiously loud noise?).
Pending (under warranty) work to be done once parts arrive are the two front lower control arms (pricey!) as well as the bushings (3) that hold the front differential in place.
Again, this is just my "log" where I will post my issues and findings.
Pending (under warranty) work to be done once parts arrive are the two front lower control arms (pricey!) as well as the bushings (3) that hold the front differential in place.
what are the symptoms to change these. I’m 110k miles I don't know if they are for replacement
In my case there is an annoying "clunk" noise when I go over speed bumps or irregular road surfaces. There is no feeling via the steering wheel as if something is loose, but you can clearly hear it. When I originally reported this noise to my local dealer (when the vehicle was under warranty) they stated that it was the set of bushings (3) that hold the front differential in place. I've personally never heard of those bushings ever wearing out, but I had no choice but to trust them. I did tell them that I believed it to be due to "suspension-related" and they told me "no, we can clearly see a few of those bushings completely torn".
Nearly 8 weeks later (can now out of warranty...) they tell me that they replaced the rear transmission bushing and that in fact they will replace the lower front control arms too when they arrive along with the 3 bushings from the front diff that have yet to arrive.
On another note, I just found the old PS reservoir and the transmission bushing in my trunk, but not the PS pump they claim to have replaced (but still makes that "wanna-be-supercharger-whine-"noise").
Will be dropping off my vehicle in a couple of hours to have some preventive maintenance done to it (serpentine belt, 2 pulleys snd tensioner, transfer case oil replacement, automatic transmission filter and oil replacement, and some other minor things). Will have him look to see if in fact the PS pump is new or what...
The original transfer case was replaced back in 2018 and 25K miles ago. The oil looked like honey (in color) so apparently not much abuse to it. Replaced with Ravenol merely as potential preventive measure. Here is what it looked like (my bad on not catching it when it was pouring out more, but it quickly emptied while I opened the camera on my phone....
And yes, that is a 997.1 GT3 in the background running BBS E88 wheels on slick tires. Poor thing... Has been totaled twice, but still going...
Turns out that my serpentine belt, pulleys (2) and belt tensioner really did not require replacement as after 10 years and 46K miles, they were just fine. I did it anyways as I had already bought the parts based on the quote that I got from the dealership right before purchasing the vehicle as they stated it required this. Good to know I'm "good to go" for quite some time in this area.
Also good to know is that no issues found during the transmission oil and filter change. Oil looked OK for being 10 years old with 46K miles of use (see below). It used 7 of the 8 liters from FCP's transmission service kit. Mechanic was impressed with the kit and the price (vs. $125/ liter of "Porsche" transmission fluid").
Brake discs have ± half of millimeter of use (supposedly 2mm of wear is when you need to replace them) so I have plenty of disc wear to go before I have to worry about those. Brake pads have 7K miles of gentle use.
Drains were checked and all clear (tons of compressed air passed through each drain with no issues).
Sunroof rails were cleaned and greased (lithium), but I still see that it opens relatively fast, closes relatively just as fast, except that for the last 20-30% of travel before it closes, it slows down to what looks like to be half speed. Anyone else noticed this?
Now to wait for the local dealership to get the front diff bushings (3). As per the local indy mechanic that I'll be using, who is the ex-head mechanic at the local dealership, the furthermost front one is the one that typically wears out, the other two not so. He checked all 3 and seemed to be in "OK" shape, but not going to argue that the dealership will replace them under warranty. The same goes for the lower front control arms (seem to be OK, but being replaced under warranty anyways). What does strike me as an odd and unexpected surprise is the fact that the new steering pump is leaking fluid, and based on the stains from the undercarriage plastics, not an insignificant amount. This will be addressed when it goes back for pending warranty work.
Last edited by Gus B.; 09-11-2023 at 06:39 PM.
Reason: added transmission oil pan cleaned
One last bit of info.... I do enjoy the exhaust sound when the valves are open ("loud") and to permanently have them open without having to run around in Sport mode, I disconnected the vacuum lines on either side and the mechanic plugged the rubber tube with a rivet and then used the other end ("long needle) of the rive to plug the valves themselves. I'll be putting some tape/silicone to make sure the rivet stays in place. Thought I'd share as I've heard of other things (golf tee, rubber caps, screws, etc.) and thought this is somewhat of an "elegant" solution. Here is a clear picture of the passenger (right) exhaust valve (silverish canister) and the black rubber hose that needs to be disconnected and then plugged to bypass the rear muffler at all times:
Here is an image of a rivet that looks just like the one used to plug the hose and the entry opening on the valve:
Too bad I have yet to find a way to permanently make the sound symposer (intake) permanently be activated. The local indy mechanic states that he too does not know of a way to make this happen (permanently activated) too. He states that it's an electronic valve/control that regulates this. If anyone knows how to permanently engage/enable this, do please share! The sound is quite addictive, especially under load between 3-5K rpms...
Today was my second fill up at the gas station and the same problem happened as last time: tank was a bit less than 1/4 when I filled it up completely and upon startup, it could barely hold an idle and was quite rough. Did some research and apparently it's a known issue: fuel tank egr/evap/canister purge valve / ventilation valve apparently has gone bad. Will call the mechanic tomorrow and take it from there. It did drive perfectly fine with no hiccups after it 'recovered itself' after about 30 seconds. I can only imagine how the engine mounts got an exercise...
No check engine light or any other warning message showed up. I don't have a scanner, so not sure if there is an error code somewhere or not.
As per mechanic, when the gas tank purge valve malfunctions, you get a check engine light 100% (did not happen to me). Apparently the rough idle I have after filling up the gas tank (while nearly all empty) is due to the valve being open and purging the gases directly into the intake system. Here is an image (from Pelican) of the valve and the tubing where the gases trave through:
Just picked up my vehicle today and could clearly see that it has a new PS reservoir (implies new fluid too). The service agent told me that 100% the pump was changed too. Too bad that the "wanna-be-supercharger-whine-noise" is still very present. Was told that the transmission mount (rubber "doughnut" in the middle of a crossmember near the rear of the transmission, close to the transfer case) was changed too. That said, I'm taking it to an indy shop on Monday (Porsche factory trained mechanic, used to be chief technician at the local dealership until a few months ago) and will have him verify that in fact the PS pump has been in fact changed as well as the transmission mount as the vehicle feels exactly the same way as when I left it there on Monday.
He will perform a transmission oil and filter change (just because it's 10 years old and has 45K miles on it) as well as transfer case oil change (cheap insurance, no symptoms present). Will also have the serpentine belt, two pulleys, and the tensioner changed (maybe that is the source of the obnoxiously loud noise?).
Pending (under warranty) work to be done once parts arrive are the two front lower control arms (pricey!) as well as the bushings (3) that hold the front differential in place.
Again, this is just my "log" where I will post my issues and findings.
i think i have this same noise in my car. can you confirm. below is the video of the noise in my car. you can hear it as soon as i take off. (please ignore the squeeky brakes of the car in front me lol) thanks.
My noise was slightly different and it went away after replacing the serpentine belt, pulleys, and tensioner. I never heard mine from outside (though my kids did and told me it was louder than the exhaust) and I could clearly hear it inside with the windows up. Not sure what is going on with yours. I'd venture to bet it's one of the accessories's attached to the serpentine belt.
Just an update for record keeping purposes: had the bushings of the front differential changed as well as the front lower control arms. Too bad I got the vehicle back with improper alignment, but the dealership made it right with their new Hunter "Porsche Approved" alignment machine. I can sometimes still feel some sort of minor "clunk/movement" when going over certain bumps at certain speeds, but since I am out of warranty and it's something very minor, I'm not going to worry about it. It is a 10 year old vehicle after all...
Had an unexpected surprise a couple of days ago: went to start the vehicle (after having driven it the same day for nearly 2 hours) and it almost did not start. Very slow to turn the engine over (as if battery was dead), but after three tries, it fired right up. I did take it to the local battery place where a new one was put back on June 29 of this year and they gave me a piece of paper that proved to me that all of the voltages are well within spec for both the battery and alternator. Wonder if it's the starter that will soon die on me. Will worry about it when it happens.
Pending things to do: 1- have a stereo shop (expert in removing and re installing car interiors) check out my rear hatch and front passenger door as they have a couple of rattles that need to be quieted; 2- clone the PCM hard drive for preventive situation as I'd hate to invest in a Mr12Volt only to have the HD fail; 3- install Mr12Volt, but need to spend a bit more time with it to see how often I will in fact use the vehicle (so far, 1,200 miles in 6 months...).
Observations so far: it's a very "practical" vehicle (performance, space, utility, etc.). Brakes are awesome and I have yet to ever think "if only I had the Turbo brakes". GTS seats with alcantara are very "grabby" and I can easily see how some "wider at the belly folks" would not like them. Drinks a lot more fuel than the trip computer indicates (measured by actual kilometers driven divided by actual liters of fuel used). The intake sound in Sport mode after 3K rpms under load is quite addictive. Exhaust (permanently in sport mode/valves open) is barely heard from within the cabin, but people outside comment how "bad a$$" it sounds even at idle. Cold starts are very cool.
09-05-2023, 11:01 AM
