Dreaded battery change and the mystery around coding! Update with pics
09-27-2022, 03:38 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Dreaded battery change and the mystery around coding! Update with pics
Late post, did the much awaited battery change on my 2016 4.2d recently. I was intending to do a battery swap from a whole year since i realised that the porsche oem parking heater (diesel) used to stop in like 15 mins last winter and didnt fully deice the car unless i hooked on an external supply overnight. and when i started the vehicle after deicing session i used to get low battery alerts and more pasm acc errors due to low battery voltages.
I used a CTEK 7amp charger on "Supply" mode to keep the ecu alive but i'm not sure if it works since some of the settings (and not all, surprisingly, seemed they lost power). For first time battery replacement the carpet under the driver seat needs cutting on some slots intentionally left in design.
I used a new varta h15 battery with same specs for my 105ah oem, the only add on needed was that in the new battery the hole vent for gases on the right side is also open which needs to be plugged with the spare plug from old battery taken out. Rest all is pretty straight forward for any battery change but cable management and taping up helps. I did not disconnect any additional cables like seat control, probe sensor etc, just take the terminals off and snap back on new battery, a complementary spark happens even if you maintain voltage via external supply
Now to the interesting part and which i was dreading from about an year and not finding very conclusive info - the coding or not. i started with icarsoft scanner and i couldn't. Using old battery bem code and shifting one digit didnt help either. i tried all combinations suggested on many posts here but it didnt. the ageing on icarsoft still showed the same values as before which meant the system does not know the battery change.
after much reading i realised i did a format error the first time and the system does not allow repeated registers, UNLESS there is another battery disconnection detected! after a day i tried after disconnecting ( no ctek charger on supply mode this time) and registration worked. after 1-2 days i took info from icarsoft that battery ageing fields are now reset to 100%
I see the voltage on better levels now like 12.2v while before starting normally which was 11.8v before. Now the recharge cycle rarely goes to 14.6v and not 14.8v in normal mode and after an hour of drive the voltage falls back to 13.2v which should be the normal float of an agm battery so all seems dandy.
The real test will be in few weeks in Swedish winter and 30-40 mins of running session of the parking diesel heater (50 watts for fuel pump + probably 100 watts for blower + 50 watts for water circulation pump) to de-ice the car in the mornings! Wish me luck withe the new battery performance
Additional observations on memory etc:
1) no memory loss on window positions, radio, sunroof or tailgate levels etc.
2) the weird part was tailgate power was dead after the change. it only came live when i pressed the button on driver door for closing. even after the power tailgate was working, the position red light on the inside of the tailgate stayed off all the time, even if everything else was functional. after 2-3 days i had done coding, the light was back on!
Hopefully this experience is useful to someone! Cheers!
I used a CTEK 7amp charger on "Supply" mode to keep the ecu alive but i'm not sure if it works since some of the settings (and not all, surprisingly, seemed they lost power). For first time battery replacement the carpet under the driver seat needs cutting on some slots intentionally left in design.
I used a new varta h15 battery with same specs for my 105ah oem, the only add on needed was that in the new battery the hole vent for gases on the right side is also open which needs to be plugged with the spare plug from old battery taken out. Rest all is pretty straight forward for any battery change but cable management and taping up helps. I did not disconnect any additional cables like seat control, probe sensor etc, just take the terminals off and snap back on new battery, a complementary spark happens even if you maintain voltage via external supply
Now to the interesting part and which i was dreading from about an year and not finding very conclusive info - the coding or not. i started with icarsoft scanner and i couldn't. Using old battery bem code and shifting one digit didnt help either. i tried all combinations suggested on many posts here but it didnt. the ageing on icarsoft still showed the same values as before which meant the system does not know the battery change.
after much reading i realised i did a format error the first time and the system does not allow repeated registers, UNLESS there is another battery disconnection detected! after a day i tried after disconnecting ( no ctek charger on supply mode this time) and registration worked. after 1-2 days i took info from icarsoft that battery ageing fields are now reset to 100%
I see the voltage on better levels now like 12.2v while before starting normally which was 11.8v before. Now the recharge cycle rarely goes to 14.6v and not 14.8v in normal mode and after an hour of drive the voltage falls back to 13.2v which should be the normal float of an agm battery so all seems dandy.
The real test will be in few weeks in Swedish winter and 30-40 mins of running session of the parking diesel heater (50 watts for fuel pump + probably 100 watts for blower + 50 watts for water circulation pump) to de-ice the car in the mornings! Wish me luck withe the new battery performance
Additional observations on memory etc:
1) no memory loss on window positions, radio, sunroof or tailgate levels etc.
2) the weird part was tailgate power was dead after the change. it only came live when i pressed the button on driver door for closing. even after the power tailgate was working, the position red light on the inside of the tailgate stayed off all the time, even if everything else was functional. after 2-3 days i had done coding, the light was back on!
Hopefully this experience is useful to someone! Cheers!
The following 2 users liked this post by jishtu:
afriedrich (09-28-2022),
BrendonSF (09-30-2022)
09-30-2022, 06:20 AM
#2
Intermediate
I changed mine on my 4.2sD a couple of weeks ago as the original (9 years old) was past its best.
Sadly I had no way of hooking up a positive supply or indeed coding anything but the only thing I had to do following the change was reset the sunroof and window limits.
Sadly I had no way of hooking up a positive supply or indeed coding anything but the only thing I had to do following the change was reset the sunroof and window limits.
The following users liked this post:
jishtu (10-02-2022)
09-30-2022, 01:22 PM
#3
I can add some additional (hopefully useful) contrasting experience from a 2013 Cayenne Turbo and an Audi 2014 Q5 2.0T
I changed the batteries in both of these cars earlier this year. For both cars, I swapped the batteries without any external voltage maintainers. The total time disconnected was likely a couple of minutes or so. I wasn’t in a super hurry but I did try to reconnect reasonably quickly. Both cars had the original battery. The Cayenne’s battery was 40-50% of original capacity and I was occasionally getting some strange faults, like the third brake light error.
After installing the Cayenne’s new battery the battery life measures reset to 100% without any intervention. Many people have mentioned that nothing needs to be done (though I haven’t seen that anything can actualy be done…). I used a Foxwell NT 530 diagnostic scanner to check the various battery capacity measures. No strange errors for 6+ months and counting.
After installing the Audi Q5’s new battery, none of the battery life measures reset. I used a Ross-Tech HEX+CAN VCDS tool to edit the battery serial number (changing the last digit) and voila, the battery life measure reset to 100%. I “think” I was also able to see a possible setting for the Audi that would have “noticed" a loss of voltage. This was not set for the Audi. My guess is that there is a similar setting for the Cayenne that does notice when the battery is disconnected.
Hope this helps,
Mark
I changed the batteries in both of these cars earlier this year. For both cars, I swapped the batteries without any external voltage maintainers. The total time disconnected was likely a couple of minutes or so. I wasn’t in a super hurry but I did try to reconnect reasonably quickly. Both cars had the original battery. The Cayenne’s battery was 40-50% of original capacity and I was occasionally getting some strange faults, like the third brake light error.
After installing the Cayenne’s new battery the battery life measures reset to 100% without any intervention. Many people have mentioned that nothing needs to be done (though I haven’t seen that anything can actualy be done…). I used a Foxwell NT 530 diagnostic scanner to check the various battery capacity measures. No strange errors for 6+ months and counting.
After installing the Audi Q5’s new battery, none of the battery life measures reset. I used a Ross-Tech HEX+CAN VCDS tool to edit the battery serial number (changing the last digit) and voila, the battery life measure reset to 100%. I “think” I was also able to see a possible setting for the Audi that would have “noticed" a loss of voltage. This was not set for the Audi. My guess is that there is a similar setting for the Cayenne that does notice when the battery is disconnected.
Hope this helps,
Mark