I bought my 2013 Cayenne S a few months ago and it was aa very nice car with only 40K miles. But the cigarette lighter in the cupholder never worked. The fuse was fine and the outlets in the passenger footwell, the center console cubby, and the rear seat all worked, so it looked like the problem was with the power socket itself.

I finally decided to pull the console apart to remove the cupholder and get to this socket. The fix was pretty easy, as the center terminal was corroded. A little work with a Dremel tool and a wire brush cleaned it nicely.

But at the same time, I decided to convert the ashtray into more power sockets. I hate having radar detector cables running all over the place and as a non-smoker, the ashtray location was ideal for more power outlets.

I found a power panel on eBay, intended for marine use. The panel was just about the same size as the ashtray lid and it came with two power sockets and one USB charger for the grand sum of $10.29.



The trick was getting power to this panel. I ended up splicing into the wires powering the outlet in the console cubby, because those wires were longer than the ones feeding the cup holder outlet. Feeding those wires into the console area in the vicinity of the shifter was tricky, but doable.

Removing the ashtray assembly was not much fun either, but I got it out without breaking the trim surrounding the shifter. Then the ashtray needed to be disassembled, including removing the lid, to leave an opening suitable for this power panel and the internal power sockets.
The panel required some sanding to fit the slightly trapezoidal shape left by the lid, but that was easy with my belt sander. Of course, the lid is slightly convex while the power panel is flat, so the fit is not perfect, but it's not terrible.

For now. the panel is retained by Velcro strips that I glued to the back of the panel and to the sides of the ashtray cavity, but this is a work in progress. I think I might try to 3D print a plastic panel that is better fit and come up with a more secure method of attachment.


But for now, it seems to be working well. I just need to make sure I don't overload the 15A circuit, as there are not six power outlets on it.

Sorry for the lack of step-by-step photos, but the project was sufficiently involved that I couldn't find the energy to take a series of phots. But I'm happy to answer questions and share what I learned during the project.

 

I think you are on the right track in making this location useful. Now to get your 3D printed insert tuned up to look factory. Good luck!

 

I agree, the factory placement of the console socket is near worthless.

If you just want USB sockets you don't have to use those full-depth accessory sockets. There are other options, including DC-DC 12v-USB power supplies that have panel-mount USB sockets. But then you'd looking at making a proper panel that fits into the space and has the cut-outs.

That and there are right-angled USB cords (left, right, up, down) that can help tidy-up how cords lay.

But there's a lot to be said for using a regular accessory socket transformer, mainly because there's so many different ways phones and tablets 'abuse' USB power for charging. Sometimes a matching factory-supplied car charger works more reliably than anything aftermarket.

Either way, nice job. Those look like some I've used from "Blue Sea" for socket setups on our boat. http://www.delzer.com/powerproducts/mbl_cat_003/24/

 

Not only is the outlet between the cupholders in a sub-optimal location, but mine didn't even work. So the only places to plug in my detector were the passenger footwell, or the one in the console cubby. This is an infinitely better location.