On my way to buy 2008 CTT with Sport Design Pack
#16
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Yes, both of those deals seem decent provided the cars are good. How thorough do you plan/want to be? Besides the normal stuff, here are some special Cayenne specific things:
READ UP ON CYLINDER SCORING!
-Double check the air pump for the suspension.
-Listen to the front diff for noise.
-Check that the transfer case works.
-Check the hatch release mechanisms and struts.
-Control Arm Bushings.
-Check the HVAC fan speeds are all working.
-Double check that the headlight release mechanisms aren't broken or stripped.
-Feel for the vibration in steering wheel when coming to a stop at 4-8mph when in gear to see if the engine mounts are squished down yet.
-Make sure the computer has all the readiness checks completed and there are no codes.
-Replace the diverters
-Drain the oil out of the driver's side intercooler hose
READ UP ON CYLINDER SCORING!
-Double check the air pump for the suspension.
-Listen to the front diff for noise.
-Check that the transfer case works.
-Check the hatch release mechanisms and struts.
-Control Arm Bushings.
-Check the HVAC fan speeds are all working.
-Double check that the headlight release mechanisms aren't broken or stripped.
-Feel for the vibration in steering wheel when coming to a stop at 4-8mph when in gear to see if the engine mounts are squished down yet.
-Make sure the computer has all the readiness checks completed and there are no codes.
-Replace the diverters
-Drain the oil out of the driver's side intercooler hose
#17
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Originally Posted by Supah
Those are pretty normal things! I am not worried about getting fluids changed all over.
I am more interested in hearing about major issues I can expect at this mileage? Any common problems?
I am more interested in hearing about major issues I can expect at this mileage? Any common problems?
My SO's 08 ctt just had a new alternator put in and if you need to see a comprehensive list of what can go wrong with an 08 CTT, check oit this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...-08-ctt-2.html
#20
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If it starts, drives and feels good, just go ahead.
My SO's 08 ctt just had a new alternator put in and if you need to see a comprehensive list of what can go wrong with an 08 CTT, check oit this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...-08-ctt-2.html
My SO's 08 ctt just had a new alternator put in and if you need to see a comprehensive list of what can go wrong with an 08 CTT, check oit this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...-08-ctt-2.html
I read your thread and it seems like there is a whole bunch of things that went wrong with your SO's CTT. Considering labor at indy's in NY is significantly higher than in Slovakia, I might reconsider as I don't want to spend a lot on repairs.
For some reason, after doing my first round of research on reliability - I was under impression of CTT being pretty reliable. Round 2 - now it seems like CTT is closer to X5(which I sold after owning for 6 month) in reliability.
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#21
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So far, from reading, reading and more reading...
Most common replacements at this kind of mileage:
Cardan Shaft
Alternator
Starter
PDCC hose (due to puncture)
Water pump and thermostat
Belt
Would be great to hear how much these repairs would cost and if their are any other things I left out?
Most common replacements at this kind of mileage:
Cardan Shaft
Alternator
Starter
PDCC hose (due to puncture)
Water pump and thermostat
Belt
Would be great to hear how much these repairs would cost and if their are any other things I left out?
#22
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Yes, both of those deals seem decent provided the cars are good. How thorough do you plan/want to be? Besides the normal stuff, here are some special Cayenne specific things:
READ UP ON CYLINDER SCORING!
-Double check the air pump for the suspension.
-Listen to the front diff for noise.
-Check that the transfer case works.
-Check the hatch release mechanisms and struts.
-Control Arm Bushings.
-Check the HVAC fan speeds are all working.
-Double check that the headlight release mechanisms aren't broken or stripped.
-Feel for the vibration in steering wheel when coming to a stop at 4-8mph when in gear to see if the engine mounts are squished down yet.
-Make sure the computer has all the readiness checks completed and there are no codes.
-Replace the diverters
-Drain the oil out of the driver's side intercooler hose
READ UP ON CYLINDER SCORING!
-Double check the air pump for the suspension.
-Listen to the front diff for noise.
-Check that the transfer case works.
-Check the hatch release mechanisms and struts.
-Control Arm Bushings.
-Check the HVAC fan speeds are all working.
-Double check that the headlight release mechanisms aren't broken or stripped.
-Feel for the vibration in steering wheel when coming to a stop at 4-8mph when in gear to see if the engine mounts are squished down yet.
-Make sure the computer has all the readiness checks completed and there are no codes.
-Replace the diverters
-Drain the oil out of the driver's side intercooler hose
Funny enough, I called Porsche Service Center to talk about PPI and one of the mechanics on the phone told me to not even think about a Turbo unless it is still under warranty bc the cost of repairs is just outrageous. I know that dealerships charge a lot more than indys (there is a reason people call them "stealerships" lol), usually I can handle some DIY and have decent Indy's in my area, which I assume would cut down on the repair cost by a lot(depending on part's cost). But it still scared me off a bit. Mechanic suggested getting a GTS instead, saying that it is less expensive to maintain and has less problems.
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Ugh...the more I read these threads on RL, the more I get worried about getting a Cayenne. At the same time...not really feeling like getting a Lexus RX, even though it is more logical considering superior reliability, but itsgood looking as CTT and not as fun to drive)....
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
#23
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Originally Posted by Supah
Thanks Lupo,
I read your thread and it seems like there is a whole bunch of things that went wrong with your SO's CTT. Considering labor at indy's in NY is significantly higher than in Slovakia, I might reconsider as I don't want to spend a lot on repairs.
For some reason, after doing my first round of research on reliability - I was under impression of CTT being pretty reliable. Round 2 - now it seems like CTT is closer to X5(which I sold after owning for 6 month) in reliability.![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I read your thread and it seems like there is a whole bunch of things that went wrong with your SO's CTT. Considering labor at indy's in NY is significantly higher than in Slovakia, I might reconsider as I don't want to spend a lot on repairs.
For some reason, after doing my first round of research on reliability - I was under impression of CTT being pretty reliable. Round 2 - now it seems like CTT is closer to X5(which I sold after owning for 6 month) in reliability.
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I didn't want to discourage you, just remind you that even a properly maintained cayenne can develop all kinds of issues. If I had done the seeping PDCC o ring right away, I'd save myself at least $2k... but who could have known.
If someone says a turbo is more expensive to work on, it's simply not true. Yes, turbo S brakes are expensive but that's about it. Turbos don't generally fail and the rest of the car is the same as V6 or NA V8. Plus, TT models are mostly way better equipped from the factory.
If you have a VW indy in you area that is familiar with working on touaregs, he can work on the pig anytime with his eyes closed. This alone can save you a considerable sum money.
#24
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The extra maintenance items on the Turbo over a base would be:
-air suspension stuff
-coolant pipes
-coolant tees
-motor mounts require a full engine drop to replace
-turbo related stuff like diverters valves and charge pipe seals
-extra options and electronic complexity that could cause problems
-Propensity to wear things out quicker like tires, brakes, transmission, bushings, etc. since you will drive it harder
Also, dealers are more likely to cornhole you since they see it as a $100k+ car vs a $60k car.
-air suspension stuff
-coolant pipes
-coolant tees
-motor mounts require a full engine drop to replace
-turbo related stuff like diverters valves and charge pipe seals
-extra options and electronic complexity that could cause problems
-Propensity to wear things out quicker like tires, brakes, transmission, bushings, etc. since you will drive it harder
Also, dealers are more likely to cornhole you since they see it as a $100k+ car vs a $60k car.
#25
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I've owned my June 2007 manufactured 957 Turbo (with PDCC) with ~85k miles (of which I've done 10+) for 12 months. And I've had zero issues, nada, nothing.
It's not 'CPO', but I bought it from the Porsche Dealership and they had PPI'd it. They had gotten it as a trade in.
It's not 'CPO', but I bought it from the Porsche Dealership and they had PPI'd it. They had gotten it as a trade in.
#26
Nordschleife Master
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They have air suspension, but it's pretty robust.
They have turbos, but those rarely fail.
The Turbo does require pulling the engine to change the motor mounts, but that's really about the only "big price" difference.
Don't get me wrong, they aren't cheap cars to own. The call getting into a P!g with no warranty "cliff diving" for a reason.
And if you have someone else turn the wrenches, they are less so (going to the 'stealership' only makes that part worse).
But I don't understand why they are telling you to not "even thing about a Turbo."
#27
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What, exactly, was going to make the cost of repairing a Turbo "Outrageous"?
They have air suspension, but it's pretty robust.
They have turbos, but those rarely fail.
The Turbo does require pulling the engine to change the motor mounts, but that's really about the only "big price" difference.
Don't get me wrong, they aren't cheap cars to own. The call getting into a P!g with no warranty "cliff diving" for a reason.
And if you have someone else turn the wrenches, they are less so (going to the 'stealership' only makes that part worse).
But I don't understand why they are telling you to not "even thing about a Turbo."
They have air suspension, but it's pretty robust.
They have turbos, but those rarely fail.
The Turbo does require pulling the engine to change the motor mounts, but that's really about the only "big price" difference.
Don't get me wrong, they aren't cheap cars to own. The call getting into a P!g with no warranty "cliff diving" for a reason.
And if you have someone else turn the wrenches, they are less so (going to the 'stealership' only makes that part worse).
But I don't understand why they are telling you to not "even thing about a Turbo."
I decided to pass on a high mileage CTT that I have mentioned earlier and will try to find one at the auction with +/- 80k on a clock just to be safer.
There is another idea I heard from a car dealer friend. He said that parts for a GTS generally are less expensive than for a Turbo, is this true?
#28
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So I am set on the P!G, now I have to decide between GTS and Turbo.
#29
#30
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Thanks for clarifying this for me!
Makes total sense to get a Turbo over GTS, if they are usually cheaper (from my search experience, correct me if I am wrong) and have more bells and whistles from factory.
So GTS is pretty much an S with Sport Design Package? Or there are other differences?
Makes total sense to get a Turbo over GTS, if they are usually cheaper (from my search experience, correct me if I am wrong) and have more bells and whistles from factory.
So GTS is pretty much an S with Sport Design Package? Or there are other differences?