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Should the jacks ever malfunction and fall on the car, they will definitely scratch the hood/roof, if not leave dents. The hood is aluminum, expensive to repair. You might want to put the jacks under the car - it's much safer that way for you as well.
Thought I’d add a long term report and mod for the fix. I ran the standard fix for about 10,000 kms, when I started to get a slight vibration between 80-90 kph. Taking the fix apart I found the hose was a lot softer than when it started (no surprise). Rather than making a new ring, I added smaller tubing inside 4 out of the 8 hose sections. It was still flexible enough to get in there, but by having 4 points less compressible, the shaft is held more firmly. Vibrations disappeared and all is good again.
I haven't seen this thread for a while, so I thought I would add a really long term update for those interested. 4 years and +120K hard km later I haven't had to look at this once. Still performing at 100%. Cheers, and best of the season.
No telling how many more have used this helpful repair over the years, and even since the thread went dormant a year ago. I did this on my wife's Cayenne several years ago, still going strong over 45k miles later. Now my son bought his Cayenne Titanium S a year ago, and the midget started hammering last week. I was able to quickly diagnose, then confirm on a lift. Very thankful it didn't start on the first leg of our recent New Year's vacation driving from Georgia to New Mexico and Colorado and back over two weeks! Performed flawlessly on the highway and in heavy snow up to the CO slopes. We are doing his this afternoon along with the second and third rear hatch shock replacements. I'd honestly rather do another Jimi Fix than those hatches yet again....
Hello All,
stumbled upon this interesting thread. and very glad i did. thank you for the creator of the fix and anyone who spreading it around.
i wanted to get insights into this fix. how long time/mileage wise people have had this fix for and how it performs. when might it need replacing/refreshing since rubber tends to wear out. i am from Canada and local road clearing crew enjoy putting salt or solution onto the road.
i drive 2010 VW Touareg TDI and VW/Audi/Porsche seem to share a lot of things and this might be one of them. when vehicle is colder after accelerating to 40 KM/h and letting of accelerator pedal i hear a ticking. it mainly appears in 40-30 KM/h zone. when car warms up its not heard or not very noticeable.
i went under and played around with driveshaft and i could shake it relatively far. when looking at bearing/bushing driveshaft is off center. so the rubber is going slowly.
so here i am thinking of doing this fix before it gets worse.
I haven't seen this thread for a while, so I thought I would add a really long term update for those interested. 4 years and +120K hard km later I haven't had to look at this once. Still performing at 100%. Cheers, and best of the season.
hello. 120k and 4 years , sounds quite promising. in your earlier post you mentioned you put in continental FUEL hose. most folks on this thread recommend heater hose. since some had vibration due to fuel hose being stiffer/less rubbery than heater hose. would there be a significant difference?
Last edited by tregdriver; 07-30-2023 at 06:02 PM.
You need to get heater hose because it's softer than other types of hose. The squishiness fits into the ring and dampens vibrations better than stiffer hoses.
If you read through the thread you'll find this repair lasts tens of thousands of miles. I've had mine in place for a couple of years, and we use salt like crazy in Pennsylvania. Even if it does wear out, it only takes 15 minutes to do it again.
Not likely. Bearings make noise when they go bad. The rubber when it fails starts as a rumble around the arm rest. Take a look underneath and you'll be able to confirm the rubber has failed. Each of my support bushings lasted 65k. My Jimi Fox for #2 has been working flawlessly for 14k mi and 15 months. It's cheap and easy so worth trying before assuming you have a bigger fix.
About three weeks ago I felt a rumble/tremor from the rear while accelerating hard around a corner. It progressively got worse over then next couple hundred miles, but only when accelerating hard. I finally realized it was the cardan shaft issue when I felt the hammering through the armrest.
After getting the heater hose into the retaining ring, I cut a section from a water bottle, and wrapped it around the shaft and bearing. That made sliding the Jimi fix onto the bearing super easy.
Drives smooth as glass at full acceleration and around curves now. Thank you to all in this thread for very clear instructions on how to do this.
Well, my Jimi fix lasted 6 years and about 70,000 miles. The rumble/vibration returned, so I replaced it using the same method. I even used the same plastic bottle method to get it onto the bearing. I could see that the failure was that a couple of the zip ties broke. Super easy, practically free fix. Here's to another 70k miles and 6 years. My 2005 CTT now has 230k miles.
Here's the new one:
I have installed the JXB on an 08 CS and an 09 CTT. I had to use the track mounting bushings on the CTT AND use the wider mount OEM mounting points on the JXB brace as described in the advice below. After I elected to go with this option, they sent everything I needed overnight at no charge.
Here is the info from JXB...great customer service!The problem of the driveshaft moving around on these 955/957 Cayennes is a tough one, but I definitely have a solution for you.
First, check out this video. Though not 100% on topic here, it shows the behavior of the driveshaft under your car. Basically, there's a misalignment between the driveshaft and the transfer case from the factory that causes the OEM failures we see so often on this platform.
Now that the behavior is known, the next thing is to understand your original vibration with the OEM carrier and your new one with the JXB carrier:
OEM Vibration
The OEM carrier rubber is very soft and the metal frame is rigid mounted to the car. When the rubber cracks/separates/fails, it allows the bearing to hit the metal carrier frame causing the typical vibration we always see on this platform.
JXB Vibration
This one is a bit harder to understand, but it's a very different cause. The purpose of the JXB carrier is to be able to soak up the articulation/movement of the center bearing without wearing out over time like the OEM one does. To do that, we use more solid bushings than OEM, and to prevent excess vibration transfer to the cabin strictly due to the movement of the driveshaft, we put bushings in 2 places. One set around the driveshaft, and one set of damper bushings at the attachment to the tunnel brace. The risk here is that if we don't soak up enough vibration within the bushings surrounding the bearing, the vibration will throw the carrier around. Since clearance is tight to the tunnel walls, this can result in the carrier tapping against the body. This is the vibration you're most likely experiencing.
So, to fix your issue, we either need to further soften the bushings around the driveshaft to absorb more driveshaft movement, or stiffen the mounting points of the carrier to the tunnel brace to prevent movement. The latter is the easiest and most effective approach. First, we should switch the mounting bushings to the track density. If that doesn't solve it, then we will choke up on the bushings by placing additional washers between the head of the mounting bolts and the first washer. This will take up space on the shoulder of the bolts and apply more preload to the damper bushings, effectively stiffening the bushings further. I'm not sure if you used the JXB tunnel brace or OEM, but if it's the JXB, we can also move the mounting points to the OEM-style holes in the JXB brace to give the carrier a wider stance to resist side to side movement. You'd need a pair of nylock nuts to do this, which I can provide.
If for some reason all of that doesn't work, softening the bushings around the driveshaft would be the last step. The easiest way to do this is to put a washer or two between the two halves of the carrier on each side to loosen the clamping load on them. The only risk here is it makes it easier for the bushings to be ejected, so adding some zip ties to hold the bushings to the carrier frame would be in order. (edit...this was not necessary)
Let me know what you want to try and I'm happy to send out any bushings and hardware needed.
This JIMI fix is not new by any stretch of the imagination. I remember stuffing "heater hose" into the center carrier bearing on my pre 1965 GM muscle cars when the rubber would come out,usually just as I banged 3rd gear at 7000 rpm.Actually broke a few drive shafts at the center splines. Did it so often that if I was going out of town I would just carry an extra in the trunk. Could swap it out in 15 on the side of the road or parking lot. And it wasn't a new trick when I was doing to these beaters I was driving back in the 70's, old guy at the dealership told me about it.Only difference was we used metal hose clamps. You know,I'd love to see this hack on a episode Road Kill.........""Great ideas, Poorly executed""
Last edited by 928FIXER; 02-07-2024 at 02:09 PM.
Reason: spelling
12-22-2021 | 12:15 AM
