2006 CTT with high mileage
06-08-2016, 03:45 PM
#31
Lol, never heard "clapped out" but I can imagine what it means.
I sort of wish I had someone who owns a CTT or even base/S who could take this one out for a spin (I may formally ask if the other buyer doesn't pull the trigger) to set my bearings straight. Maybe I think it wasn't as fast because of the huge delay between foot on gas and acceleration. Very, very different than the 964, which is a much slower car but somehow feels faster because cause and effect are immediate.
I sort of wish I had someone who owns a CTT or even base/S who could take this one out for a spin (I may formally ask if the other buyer doesn't pull the trigger) to set my bearings straight. Maybe I think it wasn't as fast because of the huge delay between foot on gas and acceleration. Very, very different than the 964, which is a much slower car but somehow feels faster because cause and effect are immediate.
Another thing to consider is the adapted transmission mapping. If it's been driven in a commuting situation, or babied in any way, it will feel lethargic. Tip shifting it in manual will cure that problem.
06-08-2016, 04:29 PM
#32
Turning off PSM will set the gearbox in to 'Sport Mode'. This sounds totally illogical, but that's how it works, both on a 955 and 957 (even though the 957 actually has a Sport -button that will do the same without disabling PSM).
06-08-2016, 07:01 PM
#33
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
This is a heavy beast of a vehicle. You really have to be in manual mode if you're gonna push the go pedal and expect a more lively response. Oh and what everybody else said, turn PSM off too.
Even a regular run of the mill CS can be entertaining when in the right gear at the right RPM. With the exhaust mod from a previous thread, it can also sound pretty good too when your right foot gets the urge to flex and stomp.
Is it fast? Well, I guess it depends on your reference point. A stock 964 is fast (for it's age), a CTT should be as fast as the 0-60 times are essentially the same.
Go drive a few more. There's that gray one on CL for a little more. I think I've seen it advertised for a very long time. Might be worth a look too.
As for your questions:
Heated seats should heat up the bottom and back cushions quickly. If you're not feeling it within a minute, it's not working.
The car will power down the lights and radio after 10 minutes if the key is not in the ignition. Pretty common feature of the more recent vintages.
Interior parts are not too expensive to replace. I bought some new items from Sunset and used from Ebay. (new were rear center console piece and that notoriously common flip down break me now door, used was the gear lever surround) Also, the interior rubber treatment on all the switches tend to fall apart. I resprayed all of the switch surrounds like window switches, with a rustoleum flexidip coating and they look brand spankin new.
Good luck in your search!
Even a regular run of the mill CS can be entertaining when in the right gear at the right RPM. With the exhaust mod from a previous thread, it can also sound pretty good too when your right foot gets the urge to flex and stomp.
Is it fast? Well, I guess it depends on your reference point. A stock 964 is fast (for it's age), a CTT should be as fast as the 0-60 times are essentially the same.
Go drive a few more. There's that gray one on CL for a little more. I think I've seen it advertised for a very long time. Might be worth a look too.
As for your questions:
Heated seats should heat up the bottom and back cushions quickly. If you're not feeling it within a minute, it's not working.
The car will power down the lights and radio after 10 minutes if the key is not in the ignition. Pretty common feature of the more recent vintages.
Interior parts are not too expensive to replace. I bought some new items from Sunset and used from Ebay. (new were rear center console piece and that notoriously common flip down break me now door, used was the gear lever surround) Also, the interior rubber treatment on all the switches tend to fall apart. I resprayed all of the switch surrounds like window switches, with a rustoleum flexidip coating and they look brand spankin new.
Good luck in your search!
06-08-2016, 08:05 PM
#34
Banned
Thread Starter
The interior bits don't both me much; I'm pretty sure a lot of it will be covered in baby spit up or spilled milk if our current car is any indication.
Is the battery thing for real though? In your car if you left it on for 10 minutes with radio/fans going would it be slightly hesitant to start? Do you need to replace a battery a year? If so, no big deal, but I'm just trying to get a sense of whether this car has issues that I'm not seeing but could be diagnosed as a result of a quickly sapped battery...
I'm guessing the passenger seat heater isn't working then. Didn't test the driver's side, but if I go see it again, I definitely will (and the rear seats). I'm half hoping the other guy buys it and this is no longer an option
Is the battery thing for real though? In your car if you left it on for 10 minutes with radio/fans going would it be slightly hesitant to start? Do you need to replace a battery a year? If so, no big deal, but I'm just trying to get a sense of whether this car has issues that I'm not seeing but could be diagnosed as a result of a quickly sapped battery...
I'm guessing the passenger seat heater isn't working then. Didn't test the driver's side, but if I go see it again, I definitely will (and the rear seats). I'm half hoping the other guy buys it and this is no longer an option
06-08-2016, 09:39 PM
#35
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
No issues or hesitations on restarts, but I replaced my battery two years ago so it's still pretty good.
The interior bits don't both me much; I'm pretty sure a lot of it will be covered in baby spit up or spilled milk if our current car is any indication.
Is the battery thing for real though? In your car if you left it on for 10 minutes with radio/fans going would it be slightly hesitant to start? Do you need to replace a battery a year? If so, no big deal, but I'm just trying to get a sense of whether this car has issues that I'm not seeing but could be diagnosed as a result of a quickly sapped battery...
I'm guessing the passenger seat heater isn't working then. Didn't test the driver's side, but if I go see it again, I definitely will (and the rear seats). I'm half hoping the other guy buys it and this is no longer an option
Is the battery thing for real though? In your car if you left it on for 10 minutes with radio/fans going would it be slightly hesitant to start? Do you need to replace a battery a year? If so, no big deal, but I'm just trying to get a sense of whether this car has issues that I'm not seeing but could be diagnosed as a result of a quickly sapped battery...
I'm guessing the passenger seat heater isn't working then. Didn't test the driver's side, but if I go see it again, I definitely will (and the rear seats). I'm half hoping the other guy buys it and this is no longer an option
06-08-2016, 10:41 PM
#36
Nordschleife Master
A few things:
Basalt Black is a cool color. I'm under the impression that the metal flakes are iridescent. They refract different colors depending on what angle the light hits it.
Hatch struts are a known issue (I mentioned them above). Pelican has a nice writeup on them. ECS has a nice kit that includes the foam piece with adhesive so you don't have to worry about damaging the one that in there (it almost always tears).
I can feel my seat heaters within a minute.
It's really not all that powerful. It has 450hp pushing well over 5000lbs. It gets up to speed nicely, but it's not "neck snapping."
You said the starter "sounded labored." Do you mean it cranked kind of slowly? That's a known issue with the starter, often misdiagnosed as a battery problem. It likely also does a thing where it gives a short crank (fraction of a rotation) and then stops, and won't turn over again until you turn the key all the way to off and reset it.
There's no real consensus on cause, and it seems like the starter will continue to work for a long time (like a year and a half in my case) like this. Starter is a big job, it's located under the intake.
I replaced the starter at the same time I did my pipes, and it's been fine since.
Basalt Black is a cool color. I'm under the impression that the metal flakes are iridescent. They refract different colors depending on what angle the light hits it.
Hatch struts are a known issue (I mentioned them above). Pelican has a nice writeup on them. ECS has a nice kit that includes the foam piece with adhesive so you don't have to worry about damaging the one that in there (it almost always tears).
I can feel my seat heaters within a minute.
It's really not all that powerful. It has 450hp pushing well over 5000lbs. It gets up to speed nicely, but it's not "neck snapping."
You said the starter "sounded labored." Do you mean it cranked kind of slowly? That's a known issue with the starter, often misdiagnosed as a battery problem. It likely also does a thing where it gives a short crank (fraction of a rotation) and then stops, and won't turn over again until you turn the key all the way to off and reset it.
There's no real consensus on cause, and it seems like the starter will continue to work for a long time (like a year and a half in my case) like this. Starter is a big job, it's located under the intake.
I replaced the starter at the same time I did my pipes, and it's been fine since.
06-10-2016, 02:32 AM
#37
Banned
Thread Starter
Seller is gathering all the receipts of work done from the local dealer. Good news is that it was a totally dealer serviced car until seller bought it a year ago.
Wife is now saying I can sell the 964 if I want this, which is a total aboutface given she asked me to look into a bigger car for her.
Wife is now saying I can sell the 964 if I want this, which is a total aboutface given she asked me to look into a bigger car for her.
06-10-2016, 09:37 AM
#38
Three Wheelin'
I don't know, man. I would think long and hard about selling a 964 to acquire a high-mileage cayenne in rough shape.
If you physically don't have the room to have both, then at least bump your price range and get a nicer, lower mileage Cayenne. Don't get too hung up on the 10k purchase price. You're going to spend 15K on this car one way or another.
If you physically don't have the room to have both, then at least bump your price range and get a nicer, lower mileage Cayenne. Don't get too hung up on the 10k purchase price. You're going to spend 15K on this car one way or another.
06-10-2016, 10:48 AM
#39
Banned
Thread Starter
Oh yeah, definitely not selling the 964 to make room for this. She just bait and switched me - said she wanted a bigger car for certain times (I agree) and now says we definitely can't have 3 cars, let alone 2 Porsches.
I can probably get over that hurdle...we do have a 2.5 car garage and the 964 is laughably small by modern car standards, so can probably fit the Caynne and the 964 and all her exercise equipment in there.
We'll see, if I can't get receipts, will definitely call of the dogs on this one. If he can get them together, I'll take a second look, take extensive pictures and let y'all judge how bad the condition is.
I can probably get over that hurdle...we do have a 2.5 car garage and the 964 is laughably small by modern car standards, so can probably fit the Caynne and the 964 and all her exercise equipment in there.
We'll see, if I can't get receipts, will definitely call of the dogs on this one. If he can get them together, I'll take a second look, take extensive pictures and let y'all judge how bad the condition is.
I don't know, man. I would think long and hard about selling a 964 to acquire a high-mileage cayenne in rough shape.
If you physically don't have the room to have both, then at least bump your price range and get a nicer, lower mileage Cayenne. Don't get too hung up on the 10k purchase price. You're going to spend 15K on this car one way or another.
If you physically don't have the room to have both, then at least bump your price range and get a nicer, lower mileage Cayenne. Don't get too hung up on the 10k purchase price. You're going to spend 15K on this car one way or another.
06-10-2016, 11:17 AM
#40
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I nearly sprung for this one before I got my CS. It shows what a well taken care of high miler should look like.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Porsche...vip=true&rt=nc
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Porsche...vip=true&rt=nc
06-10-2016, 02:18 PM
#41
Banned
Thread Starter
^^ Nice. Btw, what would the cost of the following roughly be?
Small vacuum leak, no impact on car, just need to locate the small one on the front right side.
Tighten turbo oil return small rubber return tube
Reset height monitor. Everything works, the front.right needs to be reset.
Small vacuum leak, no impact on car, just need to locate the small one on the front right side.
Tighten turbo oil return small rubber return tube
Reset height monitor. Everything works, the front.right needs to be reset.
06-10-2016, 04:06 PM
#42
Three Wheelin'
There is no small rubber return tube on the turbo. Each turbo has a small sump tank bolted to the scavenge side. A metal tube goes from that tank into the engine sump. If that connection is leaking on the turbo, it's a motor pull to fix it. Either it's loose, or more likely, the line needs to be replaced.
If you're pulling the motor, you might as well do some "while you're in there" work. Engine mounts are going to be anywhere from $400-$800 for parts, a few random coolant fittings for $100, probably the valve cover gaskets for $300-$600 in parts and labor, and you might consider doing the trans input seal, as well.
Motor pull labor is $2500.
If you don't see control arms on the maintenance history, you'll be doing those, as well. They're shot around 120K miles, so at that mileage, they're way far gone. It's about 1K in parts, $250 for the alignment, and figure around $900 in extra labor.
If you're pulling the motor, you might as well do some "while you're in there" work. Engine mounts are going to be anywhere from $400-$800 for parts, a few random coolant fittings for $100, probably the valve cover gaskets for $300-$600 in parts and labor, and you might consider doing the trans input seal, as well.
Motor pull labor is $2500.
If you don't see control arms on the maintenance history, you'll be doing those, as well. They're shot around 120K miles, so at that mileage, they're way far gone. It's about 1K in parts, $250 for the alignment, and figure around $900 in extra labor.
06-10-2016, 04:19 PM
#43
Banned
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info, very helpful. That was the feedback I got from the seller on another Turbo with lower miles, so unless he wants to sell for stupid cheap, probably not something that's a realistic option.
Still waiting on my original guy to pull receipts; it would be great to see some of the below costs already taken care of somewhat recently...
Still waiting on my original guy to pull receipts; it would be great to see some of the below costs already taken care of somewhat recently...
There is no small rubber return tube on the turbo. Each turbo has a small sump tank bolted to the scavenge side. A metal tube goes from that tank into the engine sump. If that connection is leaking on the turbo, it's a motor pull to fix it. Either it's loose, or more likely, the line needs to be replaced.
If you're pulling the motor, you might as well do some "while you're in there" work. Engine mounts are going to be anywhere from $400-$800 for parts, a few random coolant fittings for $100, probably the valve cover gaskets for $300-$600 in parts and labor, and you might consider doing the trans input seal, as well.
Motor pull labor is $2500.
If you don't see control arms on the maintenance history, you'll be doing those, as well. They're shot around 120K miles, so at that mileage, they're way far gone. It's about 1K in parts, $250 for the alignment, and figure around $900 in extra labor.
If you're pulling the motor, you might as well do some "while you're in there" work. Engine mounts are going to be anywhere from $400-$800 for parts, a few random coolant fittings for $100, probably the valve cover gaskets for $300-$600 in parts and labor, and you might consider doing the trans input seal, as well.
Motor pull labor is $2500.
If you don't see control arms on the maintenance history, you'll be doing those, as well. They're shot around 120K miles, so at that mileage, they're way far gone. It's about 1K in parts, $250 for the alignment, and figure around $900 in extra labor.
06-13-2016, 02:22 PM
#44
Banned
Thread Starter
Just put in a deposit on a different CTT. Lower mileage than the first one, but not by a huge amount. Apparently had a $6K service (sounds like an engine out service, but I will confirm when I get the records) in the past few months, seller is moving to NYC at end of the month, so will have to commit to buying and then take possession a few weeks later.
Anybody have good recommendations for a PPI shop in the South Bay? Car was serviced at Steven's Creek, but probably don't want to take it there for a PPI...
Anybody have good recommendations for a PPI shop in the South Bay? Car was serviced at Steven's Creek, but probably don't want to take it there for a PPI...