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I started by checking the Air Compressor, and found that the Brown line is not conected to the compressor. I tried connecting it, but apparently it is either broken or Iīm missing something.
The black elbow fitting is part of the compressor ***'y and is mounted to the compressor head. There's also a retaining nut that appears to be missing or is still on the compressor itself. Unfortunately, this fitting is not shown as being available for purchase separately.
Your best bet would be to either try to source this fitting from a Porsche or VW dealer, or find a used air compressor which you can use as a donor for parts.
I ended up tracing the brown line and it is the one that goes to the tire inflation system, therefore, I just plugged the hole in the compressor, while I get a new one.
As mentioned in the initial post, everything started with the brown air line braking from the base of the air compressor.
I plugged the hole with a screw, and drove the car for a couple days, but the compressor started knocking. My guess was a that the piston ring in the compressor had been damaged due to the excessive use while the brown air line was broken.
I installed the Air Suspension Pump Repair Kit from ECS (it replaces the upper part of the compressor and piston ring) and the brown air line.
I thought that everything was fine. No error message in the Durametric, suspension would go up and down just fine, however, I could hear the compressor working for several minutes after parking the car. I decided to order a new temp sensor for the compressor (Durametric said that it was shorted to ground).
Installed new temp sensor and Durametric showed no error messages. The compressor kept working for several minutes after stopping the car.
Today, it blew the new brown hose again.
It seems that the compressor just keeps working and working until something brakes.
Can someone tell me where the air pressure sensor is? Is it part of the compressor?
This is a suspension system schematic for a 2006 Cayenne. See the magnet block valves in the upper right corner. The 3 wires- P ground, P signal and P VCC are related to pressure. All 3 connect to the ride height control module, on another page.
Try reseating the connector otherwise replace the valve block, about $200.
I troubleshoot faults using schematic diagrams for a living. Not surprising that its time consuming to resolve electrical issues. The vehicle wiring diagram consists of 270+ pages...a nightmare to trace IMO.
The culprit was the relay , it will activate when the suspension control module sent the signal, but it would not release after that, which made the compressor run until something gave in....
A bad relay ended up costing me:
- 1 rubber seal and Piston ring kit
- 1 Upper compressor kit
- Complete new compressor
Curiously, the new compressor had a different fitting for the main hose than the original one; thankfully I already had the upper compressor kit on hand, and made it work with a mix and match of parts.
Hello ,,
I have the same exact problem as you can you please tell me wich one is the relay i need to change i removed the driver side front dash but couldnt know where is the relay i should change ?
Often posters are here for solutions then when/if the issue is fixed they are never heard from again, or until their next problem.
Unfortunately the wiring diagram does not show the position of the relay in the mounting bracket.
In your picture there appears to be a red wire with a (yellow or white) tracer leading to the right relay. If correct the right relay is the one to replace.
I never had to replace one so I cannot comment on unlocking.
If all else falls pay a P dealer to swap out the relay.
thanks for your reply ,, i did remove the relays and put them back but the compressor didnt stop working so now am a get a new one its like 700 $ here but am afraid that the new one will burn too if i dont change the relay ?!