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Guys, thank you for your help. I very much appreciate it. Hooking the chain onto the torque arm boit is really convenient. Another question: what keeps the engine from twisting once it is suspended? Is it because the engine is still mated to the transmission?
Did this job yesterday. Took us about 9 hours. I answered my own question: because the engine is suspended from one side, it does twist a bit, but the transmission mounts keep the engine upright.
I have a slight problem. Someone had carried the motor mounts from abroad. They are lemforder motor mounts. They are not marked left or right. How do I check ?
I have a slight problem. Someone had carried the motor mounts from abroad. They are lemforder motor mounts. They are not marked left or right. How do I check ?
I have a slight problem. Someone had carried the motor mounts from abroad. They are lemforder motor mounts. They are not marked left or right. How do I check ?
There is a metal nub on the side that bolts to the engine. Make sure that is aligned and the holes line up on the engine carrier. If i remember correctly.. the tilt slightly toward the wheels wells when installed.
Bringing this thread back as I am right now working on replacing the engine mounts on my wife's Cayenne S. I have three questions.
So far, I have the two subframe mount bolts, engine mounts bolts and nut on both sides removed. Engine is securely held by the support bar from the top.
But, when I lower the subframe, the cross beam that holds the engine mount is still up. I am reading instructions from this thread and also ciscorp's thread.
1. How much can I loosen the rear subframe mount bolts?
2. Do I need to disconnect anything with steering rack?
3. Ciscorp says, "Notice the Engine Cross Beam is bolted up together with the Front sub frame PLUS there is an additional bolt, towards the rear, to remove on each side holding the Engine Cross Beam in place."
Is this the bolt (circled in red passenger side) he is talking about that I need to remove? I want to make sure I remove the correct bolt.
Edit: Job done. Vehicle idles real smooth.
To answer my questions in the above post, I loosened the rear subframe bolts maybe about 4-5 turns. Did not disconnect steering rack. And, yes, that bolt has to be removed.
Edit: Job done. Vehicle idles real smooth.
To answer my questions in the above post, I loosened the rear subframe bolts maybe about 4-5 turns. Did not disconnect steering rack. And, yes, that bolt has to be removed.
Not really. Loosening the nut on the top of the mount was the most time consuming part. Having a tight ratchet (I purchased a 108 tooth 3/8 drive) and 12-point 18mm socket will help greatly.
The rest is pretty easy.
if you value cheaper parts more than your personal time, then yes! Go for the cheaper parts.
This repair is something I’d personally not want to do more than once. I bought Corteco brand mounts and if you have a turbo, just get the Lemforfer or Corteco brand parts because you’re going to be deep into a very complicated repair.
I hear you and agree with your take. But I guess I could have been a little more specific. I have almost 270K miles on the car - it's been a daily driver and a good friend, but I just can't see it lasting much longer for other reasons. I am looking to get another 20-30K miles/1-2 years out of it and I was just trying to see if anyone had some actual/factual experience with the mounts offered on the U.S. eBay. If I pull the trigger, will report here, but I am still on the fence
Just did this Job today on my 2005 Cayenne S with 93k on the clock. I was lucky enough to have a friend who has a lift. Time spent with both of us casually working and nether of us have never done the job it took just a bit over 2 hours. I did do my research so that helped a ton.
Listed the steps below only because i have not seen any one step by step it which is what caused me a little confusion in my research.
1- remove engine beauty covers
2- remove airbox covers and MAF's then take the 10mm bolt out of the airboxes for removal later.
3- lift car, remove wheels and fender liners t-20, t-25, 10mm and Phillip's screws
4- remove airboxes both came out through the fenders.
5- remove engine mount 18mm nuts. Drivers side no issues with normal flex head ratchet. Passenger side ( i did purchase a 120 tooth short handled ratchet for this part) we then used a pry bar butted up to the frame rail and ratchet handle to break free then no issues.
6- lift car and remove under trays
7- support oil pan with screw jack with 2x4 scrap piece on lower section of oil pan between subframe and crossmember. Add another screw jack to front sway bar to lower subframe
8- Remove the 21mm front subframe bolts and remove the engine crossmember 21mm bolts
9- Loosen the rear subframe bolts do not take them out. I did take them out to check how long they were then put them back in enough to hold the subframe
10 - Lower screw jack that is supporting the sway bar/subframe. Once down enough the engine cross member is free to move around
11- Now you can remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the motor mounts to the crossmember and remove mount. Driver side came out over the frame rail and through he air box hole. Driver side and come out through he bottom.
Now just remember the motor mounts are left and right specific so make note.
Install obviously just work backwards.
I was set to do this in my driveway but a friend offered his home shop so i lucked out. This is a very easy job and nowhere the 8 hours the book says to do it. Like i said we had never done this job on a Cayenne S before. However both have been working on cars for many years. Very basic tools needed. we did have air but this can be done without for sure. The special tool you would need is a M12 12 point for the upper torque member mount. I did remove mine to fill with 3m windo-weld.
This job was brought on because of vibration at idle. My Cayenne only has 93K on it and the driver side mount was shot completely liquid spilled out when it was turn sideways to removed. It also was separated from top half and bottom half almost able to spin the 2 halves completely 360 but still a little rubber attached. Passenger side was completely fine.
I replaced them with Lemforder mounts since i didnt want to have to do it again. However I would change these out all day long this is a huge money maker if you were a mechanic considering book calls for 8 hours and if you were doing this consistently then yeah you can knock a few of these out a day . Good luck for anyone that needs to do this and i hope this step by step helps a little for anyone.
Resurrecting to clarify a few things. First, thanks to all!
1) is there some reason this is more challenging in a CTTS? (Someone asked above too). Is the access to the bolt on top of motor mount obstructed by the turbos or something?
2) I’ve got the subframe removed from the car for other reasons. Has anyone else done this by supporting the engine at the oil pan using a floor jack (without a support bar)? These guys do it that way and remove the engine subframe while at it…
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