Cardan Shaft suggestions, please
#16
I went with the Vertex bearing support about 12k ago and couldn't be happier. No vibration, no problems. Takes less than an hour to install and could probably do it now in 30 mins. Cleaning the rubber off the bearing is a bit tedious. It is a seriously well-engineered solution and I have every confidence that it will last a long time.
Cheers,
TomF
Cheers,
TomF
#17
I think that's exactly not what everyone is saying. If you use the Jimi Fix or the Vertex unit, you don't replace the shaft, just the bearing support. As far as I can recall in the years I've been following this forum, nobody has ever had the drive shaft itself wear out. People have said that if you drive too long with a bad bearing support you can wear out the bearings in the u-joint, but I don't remember that actually happening to anyone.
#18
But that is a seriously expensive solution at over $800. For that much you can buy two reconditioned cardan shafts. (Or a metric crapton of 3/8" transmission line and zip-ties!)
The other weird thing is that it's only for V8 955s. When the product owner posted about it in this forum, I directly asked at least twice why this product was only listed for the V8, when the V6 uses the exact same shaft. I never got an answer.
#19
I think that's because the only reason they were originally created was for the owner of thedriveshaftshop.com who himself has a Cayenne V8 and was getting tired of tearing through center supports. So he said screw it, made one, but had no interest in fitting it to other models or verifying that it fits them. But, if all the other 955 Cayennes use the same 2 piece shaft, then undoubtedly the replacement 1 shaft would have to fit them as well.
#20
If you look at this pic, you can see the bearing support at the U-joint end of the shorter section of the drive shaft.
You can get the support bearing alone for under $100 all day. If you do that, then you can get your own shaft rebuilt. I'm not sure what the cost would be, but it wouldn't be much. Someone on the forum did it themselves in their driveway.
I'm not trying to start a fight, I'm just trying to point out that for cheap bastards and DIYers, there are options that won't crush your wallet. Not everyone who drives Porsches has deep pockets!
#21
Yep. In another thread, I had to spell out, with math, for Villian that the average life expectancy is 90K miles on a factory shaft. That's from 27 data points on this forum from people that posted their mileage when theirs failed. That's about 10K miles less than the average life expectancy of lower control arms. Control arms are 3 times as expensive to replace when you factor in the required alignment.
It's amazing to me that people complain about this part. It's 350 for a rebuilt unit. It has a fairly predictable failure mileage. It's easy to do.
It's amazing to me that people complain about this part. It's 350 for a rebuilt unit. It has a fairly predictable failure mileage. It's easy to do.
#23
You can do a cardan shaft yourself in your driveway with hand tools. Super, super easy. The hardest part is breaking it free from the rear diff, because it tends to rust.
There are several excellent write ups in the forums. Just do a search for 'cardan shaft'.
And, FWIW: I'm going to do the 'jimmy fix' if my cardan shaft wears out again. I'll take a $20 15 minute fix over a $350 one-hour fix any day!
There are several excellent write ups in the forums. Just do a search for 'cardan shaft'.
And, FWIW: I'm going to do the 'jimmy fix' if my cardan shaft wears out again. I'll take a $20 15 minute fix over a $350 one-hour fix any day!
#24
I didn't realize that, or at least I figured that everyone was replacing the two separately. Either way I still like the idea of spending twice as much, and removing the part that fails altogether. Simplifying maintenance and make it a DIY project for even the most novice of wrench-turners.
#25
Climb underneath the truck with a flashlight and check. There are plenty of pics here on what they look like when they start to go. Basically, the rubber doughnut starts to look crumbly and torn. Put your hand on the shaft near the support and jerk it around and if it moves more than a twitch, it's time for a new one.
#26
I'm surprised we're still talking about this. As you said: It's a cheap part and an easy fix. There are several well-documented solutions, including super-cheap DIYs and a couple fix-and-forget options (Vertex & Driveshaft Shop).
#28
I think someone said that transmission cooler line was stiffer and therefore a better choice.
#29
I checked mine and while there is some movement it is not by any means gone or all wallered out. Also there is no way to do the Jimi repair as the rubber is solid. So my choices seem to be:
1. Vertex split unit for $400
2. Vertex (and /or other) rebuilt shafts for ~$350 or so plus exchange...call it $500 less the net on the exchange.
3. one piece shafts ~$800
4. center support bearing replacement...seems like good ones and bad ones and difficult to replace.
Not sure what to do here. $400 for the vertex unit is real expensive for what you get but it seems to do the job. The rubber center support replacement seems like a crap shoot. The rebuilt shaft or the one piece seem to make the most sense!
any additional experience share?
1. Vertex split unit for $400
2. Vertex (and /or other) rebuilt shafts for ~$350 or so plus exchange...call it $500 less the net on the exchange.
3. one piece shafts ~$800
4. center support bearing replacement...seems like good ones and bad ones and difficult to replace.
Not sure what to do here. $400 for the vertex unit is real expensive for what you get but it seems to do the job. The rubber center support replacement seems like a crap shoot. The rebuilt shaft or the one piece seem to make the most sense!
any additional experience share?
#30
I have the $400 vertex unit, and mine still bangs around under high torque. Maybe I have some other problem going on, but I would go for a rebuilt shaft over the EPS split-support thing.