Hi Guys,

I've had my Cayenne Turbo S for about 2 months now and love every minute of it. I recently bought a durametric unit because I do a lot of maintenence myself. I went through all modules and found only 1 fault code, which I am assuming is a good thing overall

The one fault code I have is 1248 - Basic boost pressure adaption. Above upper limit value.

I have driven the car for 2k miles at this point and there is no abnormal air noise from the engine as others report online when I searched for this code, there is no lack of power or "sluggishness" as some reported with a loose boost hose. Boost appears fine and goes up to 1.0/full when I accelerate hard, plenty of power.

I did some searching online before posting this and found others with this code had boost hose, MAF, or other noticeable issues throwing the code. Any ideas or suggestions? One post I saw said to connect the BOV adapter to the intake pipes, but I'll have to look into that when I have some time to pop the hood and locate where that would take place.

If you have any insight into what may be causing this or have experienced this, any insight or thoughts would be appreciated. While I haven't noticed a decrease in performance/boost, I'm wondering if resolving this code would only improve my performance.

Thanks for any info you guys have - you all rock!

[EDIT]: NO CEL LIGHT ON, just this code found on my durametric check for the engine module.

 

Clear it and see if it comes back.

If it does, you have a boost leak somewhere. I'd start with the Y-pipe and look for any cracks. Then move on to the hoses to make sure they're all tight and that you don't have an oil leak where the connections are after the IC.

Pull the diverter valves and test them. Use a 10 mm socket on an extension and stick it through the bottom to push the diaphragm up while you cover the small nipple with your thumb. Pull the socket out, but keep your thumb over the nipple. It should hold a vacuum so that you feel your thumb getting sucked into the DV a little bit, and hear a woosh when you remove your thumb. If you have a bad valve, just replace it with the factory one. Don't go with an aftermarket one as you'll just be wasting your money.

If that checks out fine - then it's going to be a bit more involved after that. My suggestion would be to take it to the dealer to be pressure tested as that will be much quicker than trying to find a leak without a pressure test.

 

You are the man! Thanks for those tips. that is what I had concluded after doing research today and you confirmed that. I did clear it on the dura this morning and it immediately came back. I should have included that in the post. When I saw your note about the boost leak it reminded me how i saw some minor fluid around a hose when i changed the oil last week. I saw online how common it was and could wait a few days. That makes me think its the oil leaking out of the boost hose where it connects to the intercooler like you said.

On business until tomorrow, but will check tomorrow night. Thanks again for the feedback, huge help. Just to confirm what to check tomorrow, do you mind pointing out the diverters and the diaphragm you refer to on this diagram?

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...pn=90004100401

 

21. It will be obvious when you take it off what the small nipple and diaphragm are.

 

Curious to how many miles you have?

 

Because I like images in the thread Hate when you find a thread and all the images are dead links!

 

I have 71k miles, everything appears original so I'm slowly working through replacing the maintenance items that need to be taken care of (and a few small mods). So far I've done spark plugs (desparately needed after i pulled them out), coils (updated to new version from suncoast), oil change to Mobil1, swapped all tranny/diff fluids, tiptronic fluid swap and filter replacement, and soon I have to do the serpentine. After that we should be all set for a while.

 

Sounds like the basic 80K service. You should consider doing the air filters, too, and the cabin filter. I think those are included in the 40K service, which would be do at 80K miles.

 

Thanks a lot wrinkledpants!, greatly appreciate your help. I did buy the replacement OEM air filters from suncoast, just sitting in my garage until I have a minute to do them. I also have the pollen/cabin filter. This weekend I'm planning on knocking a bunch of this stuff out, just trying to plan ahead so I have all the parts. Hard to tell with the boost leak, but I'm guessing you are right considering I saw the small amount of fluid on a hose by the driver's side under carriage while changing the oil. I think that is pointing to ether the diverter valve or the infamous intercoolor o-ring leak that needs to be replaced. either way I think I can take care of it without spending an arm and a leg. So far I've found working on the 957 fairly easy.

One question - can I get to the diverter valves/intercoolers by removing the wheel well liner and turning the wheel far left, or is removing the wheel absolutely necessary?

 

It kind of depends on how they have the clamps clocked on the diverter valve. You need to pull the IC hose that has the leaky o-ring to get at the valve anyway. So, I'd buy that o-ring first before diving into that project. That way, you can do the DV and the o-ring in one shot incase you do need to pull the wheel liner. The DV is right above that IC hose, at least on the driver side.

 

From memory it technically would be possible but it would be so much easier to do with the wheel off and defy worth the effort in my opinion especially if you plan to remove the entire wheel liner

Could be a good opportunity to look at the infamous rubber grommet that gets blocked with leaves etc at the same time - two birds, one stone?

 

99.9% sure it is the same on the passenger side

 

I laugh because I did the infamous rubber grommet cleaning the DAY I bought the vehicle. I had a puddle of water hit my right foot on a turn and knew right away it was a drain issue. So I drained the rubber grommet on the drivers side and then also pressure cleared the A/C drain valve on the passenger side. Issue was resolved!

To your point though, I am trying to better plan this repair. I am looking at just buying a bunch of seals and hoses and replacing a lot of it in one shot. Intercooler hoses and o-rings. This is going to be my family wagon for years to come (have twins on the way) and I want to re-do everything myself so I know it is done right and will last for some time. I know you can't plan and repair everything that may happen, but I'll give it a try and I enjoy working on it myself.

In looking at the O-rings and intercooler hose topics, I'm not debating the ECU upgrade that would take my Turbo S to 602 HP... HMMMMMMmmmm. So tempting.

 

I`d agree with that, I HATE working on cars (although it feels pretty good to accomplish something yourself as opposed to paying someone) but the 957 is pretty good

I had to work on my BMW yesterday - which I dread, everything seems awkward and illogical in comparison

 

did you ever figure out the issue? I have the same problem and as soon as i reset it, it comes right back up.