Rough Idle when cold for first 15 minutes then runs fine.....
#1
Rough Idle when cold for first 15 minutes then runs fine.....
Okay, before I get flamed for not thinking of the coils - I did. I checked last month them when I changed the plugs. They end in 05 and none of them have any visible cracks.
Here is my problem:
Since October 2012 my car 2006 Cayenne S has had this problem where when I it is cold (I mean morning startup only), it will have poor acceleration and misfires for the first 15 minutes of driving. After three or four WOT runs (which by the way have little power but shift normally and hit full RPM shift points) it begins to run normally with full power.
Last week I purchased the Durametric Cable w/Software. It does not show any misfire codes. The only Code that keeps recurring is p0332. Knock Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2.
Before purchasing the Durametric I chased this problem by changing:
Since February:
Both Fuel Pumps and Fuel Filter
MAF sensors x2 original Bosch
Left and Right Front O2 sensors
New Spark Plugs.
Re-Cleaned Throttle Body (and adapted using key and/or Durametric)
New Engine Torque Rod
Inspected both Secondary Air Injection pumps (they are both okay)
Cleaned and tightened Knock Sensor Ground connection (7/9/13)
Last year (June-August)
Coolant Pipes
Starter
Water Pump
Serpentine Belt
Thermostat
Oil/Filter
Transmission Oil/Filter
Cardan Shaft
Differential Oil
Transfer Case Oil
Air Filters
Cleaned Throttle Body
I do not hear a knock from the engine so I am thinking it's NOT a scored cylinder.
If this was a failed Knock Sensor or loose connection, wouldn't it cause problems when the engine was hot also?
Or is it possible that this is still a Coil Problem?
Thanks for any help and or suggestions (including those with the Durametric - Still learning how to use this great tool)
Ed
Here is my problem:
Since October 2012 my car 2006 Cayenne S has had this problem where when I it is cold (I mean morning startup only), it will have poor acceleration and misfires for the first 15 minutes of driving. After three or four WOT runs (which by the way have little power but shift normally and hit full RPM shift points) it begins to run normally with full power.
Last week I purchased the Durametric Cable w/Software. It does not show any misfire codes. The only Code that keeps recurring is p0332. Knock Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2.
Before purchasing the Durametric I chased this problem by changing:
Since February:
Both Fuel Pumps and Fuel Filter
MAF sensors x2 original Bosch
Left and Right Front O2 sensors
New Spark Plugs.
Re-Cleaned Throttle Body (and adapted using key and/or Durametric)
New Engine Torque Rod
Inspected both Secondary Air Injection pumps (they are both okay)
Cleaned and tightened Knock Sensor Ground connection (7/9/13)
Last year (June-August)
Coolant Pipes
Starter
Water Pump
Serpentine Belt
Thermostat
Oil/Filter
Transmission Oil/Filter
Cardan Shaft
Differential Oil
Transfer Case Oil
Air Filters
Cleaned Throttle Body
I do not hear a knock from the engine so I am thinking it's NOT a scored cylinder.
If this was a failed Knock Sensor or loose connection, wouldn't it cause problems when the engine was hot also?
Or is it possible that this is still a Coil Problem?
Thanks for any help and or suggestions (including those with the Durametric - Still learning how to use this great tool)
Ed
Last edited by thenewguy; 07-11-2013 at 12:22 AM.
#2
Had a similar issue with a different vehicle, turned out to be a vacuum leak near the top of the intake manifold (think throttle body). As the engine warmed up, the gasket swelled - sealing the leak and returning performance to normal. Once I tracked it down and re-torqued the bolts, problem solved. Temporarily. But vibration eventually loosened the bolts, and it happened again. Put LokTite on the bolts, problem solved. Permanently.
//greg//
//greg//
#3
Instructor
Okay, before I get flamed for not thinking of the coils - I did. I checked last month them when I changed the plugs. They end in 05 and none of them have any visible cracks.
Here is my problem:
Since October 2012 my car 2006 Cayenne S has had this problem where when I it is cold (I mean morning startup only), it will have poor acceleration and misfires for the first 15 minutes of driving. After three or four WOT runs (which by the way have little power but shift normally and hit full RPM shift points) it begins to run normally with full power.
Last week I purchased the Durametric Cable w/Software. It does not show any misfire codes. The only Code that keeps recurring is p0332. Knock Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2.
Before purchasing the Durametric I chased this problem by changing:
Since February:
Both Fuel Pumps and Fuel Filter
MAF sensors x2 original Bosch
Left and Right Front O2 sensors
New Spark Plugs.
Re-Cleaned Throttle Body (and adapted using key and/or Durametric)
New Engine Torque Rod
Inspected both Secondary Air Injection pumps (they are both okay)
Cleaned and tightened Knock Sensor Ground connection (7/9/13)
Last year (June-August)
Coolant Pipes
Starter
Water Pump
Serpentine Belt
Thermostat
Oil/Filter
Transmission Oil/Filter
Cardan Shaft
Differential Oil
Transfer Case Oil
Air Filters
Cleaned Throttle Body
I do not hear a knock from the engine so I am thinking it's NOT a scored cylinder.
If this was a failed Knock Sensor or loose connection, wouldn't it cause problems when the engine was hot also?
Or is it possible that this is still a Coil Problem?
Thanks for any help and or suggestions (including those with the Durametric - Still learning how to use this great tool)
Ed
Here is my problem:
Since October 2012 my car 2006 Cayenne S has had this problem where when I it is cold (I mean morning startup only), it will have poor acceleration and misfires for the first 15 minutes of driving. After three or four WOT runs (which by the way have little power but shift normally and hit full RPM shift points) it begins to run normally with full power.
Last week I purchased the Durametric Cable w/Software. It does not show any misfire codes. The only Code that keeps recurring is p0332. Knock Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2.
Before purchasing the Durametric I chased this problem by changing:
Since February:
Both Fuel Pumps and Fuel Filter
MAF sensors x2 original Bosch
Left and Right Front O2 sensors
New Spark Plugs.
Re-Cleaned Throttle Body (and adapted using key and/or Durametric)
New Engine Torque Rod
Inspected both Secondary Air Injection pumps (they are both okay)
Cleaned and tightened Knock Sensor Ground connection (7/9/13)
Last year (June-August)
Coolant Pipes
Starter
Water Pump
Serpentine Belt
Thermostat
Oil/Filter
Transmission Oil/Filter
Cardan Shaft
Differential Oil
Transfer Case Oil
Air Filters
Cleaned Throttle Body
I do not hear a knock from the engine so I am thinking it's NOT a scored cylinder.
If this was a failed Knock Sensor or loose connection, wouldn't it cause problems when the engine was hot also?
Or is it possible that this is still a Coil Problem?
Thanks for any help and or suggestions (including those with the Durametric - Still learning how to use this great tool)
Ed