rickw96

To start:
2005 Cayenne S with ~65K
I decided to do the coolant pipe upgrade using the kit and instructions from ecs tuning. Everything is for the most part straight forward until you get to the actual removal of the old plastic pipes.

Tools that I used to make the job A LOT easier:
Oscillating tool, I used a Rockwell but any should do. I used the straight blade for cutting.
MAP gas with torch the kind you would use for soldering plumbing pipes.

The process I used:
Cut each of the three top pipe one at a time from left-to-right. I cut each of the pipes completely through about in the middle.
Using a small flat blade screwdriver to work off the rubber hose towards the back of the engine. All three pipes came off the rubber hoses with not too much difficulty. The difficult part is the pipe end in the thermostat housing. I used large Channel Lock pliers to rotate the tube back-and-forth then I locked onto the pipe close to the housing with Vise-grips and used a large flat blade screwdriver to carefully pry the plastic tube out of the housing. I was lucky that all three came out without breaking inside the housing. It took me over two hours. Take your time!!!

Now the part that really sucked! The bottom larger plastic pipe.
Per ecs tuning instructions cut a hole in the top of the pipe to remove any coolant left in the pipe. The pipe is full of coolant! I use a 50cc syringe and a small piece of rubber tubing to removal most of the coolant and the rest I place rag after rag in the hole to soak up as much of the coolant as I could.
I cut the pipe in the middle and tried to twist the end out of the back housing, no luck. (Be careful there are wires in the bottom of the engine valley) The pipe was seized tight in the housing on both ends.
What I did not know was the bottom larger pipe has a metal ring in each end to help compress/hold the pipe in the housing. With all the twisting on the pipe it broke right at the housing on both ends
I spoke with ecs tuning and they suggest to heat the plastic and pry out the metal ring and plastic. It takes a fare amount of heat directed at the plastic to get the metal ring hot. Once the ring is hot you can pry it out with a flat blade screwdriver. After the ring is out you can work on removing the plastic left in the housing, you might have to heat it again.
The removal of the pipe towards the back of the engine was not too bad because you can see everything. The one towards the front of the engine is hidden under the thermostat housing. I placed a round makeup mirror (thanks to my wife) at the back of the engine so I could aim the torch.

Now on to the easy part….. I hope
Rick

Slow Guy

I posted a few tips in This thread. If I had to do it a 2nd time I know it would be much easier than it was the first.
The wet/dry vac was a big help, only wish I'd thought of it earlier in the process.
Yes, trying to get the metal ring end of the pipe out was a royal bitch which is why I came up with the "drill a hole through the pipe and insert screwdriver and walk the pipe out" method. Worked much, much easier.

rickw96

Bill,
Great idea on the screwdriver!!!
How did you clean up the housings after the removal? I was thinking steel wool or a small wire wheel on the dermal.

Slow Guy

Very fine wet/dry sandpaper, the green Scotch scrubbing sponges, steel wool and lots of elbow grease. That part of the job was a real PITA and the main reason I removed the top of the thermostat housing, so I would have better access to clean those ports.

I would love to hear what our resident techs use to clean out those ports, there has to be an easier/more thorough way.

XR4Tim

There's not an easier way as far as I'm aware. I've always cleaned the ports out with emery cloth once I get all of the plastic out.

Slow Guy

Tim, I understand there's a buffing disk like thing called an "eraser" that's available at body shop supply places, it sounds like it would work well attached to a die grinder. If I ever have to do that job again I'm going to look for one first.

XR4Tim

That's the disc they use to remove pinstriping, right? It might work well. I'd be a little concerned about using it on bare metal, as it's intended for a smooth painted surface. It might end up leaving little bits of eraser behind, but that should be easy to clean out.

rickw96

Thanks Bill and Tim for all the input and help. Everything is back together and no leaks!!!

XR4Tim

Excellent! That's good to hear!

Rickyuk

Did you use a liquid sealant when you assembled the aluminum pipes into the housings with the o rings

Slow Guy

I used the Porsche designated O-ring lube but you need to be very careful with that stuff, use it very lightly. Porsche's tech instructions state using too much of that stuff will cause it to leak. I lightly lubed the first O-ring and slid it on to the first slot then lubed the 2nd o-ring and slit it over the first o-ring and onto the 2nd slot, then wiped off any excess lube.

Rickyuk

Thanks Bill. I guess my 2004 has the plastic pipes. I purchased a mini camera to check inside the input tubes and saw no sign of aluminum. So in we go.....Guess Suncoast is the best place to purchase the kit.
Thanks again for the advice

Slow Guy

or Sunset in OR.

Have fun.