mudman2

really still sounds like a dodgy battery

bigbuzuki

Try isolating the front and rear batteries and see if that makes any difference to your voltage readings.

working4it

Update

Replaced both batteries, checked all connections and still not kicking out any voltage. Just replaced the liquid cooled alternator. Major pain in the a$$. On top of that its not working yet because I broke two pieces. The oil sending sensor and a breather T at the top. See pictures







Procedure:

Disconnect Both batter cables (negative)

Remove Right wheel

Remove Right wheel housing liner

Remove undercarage covers

Remove air cleaner houseing/tubing

Remove Air cleaner box

Remove Drive Belt

Remove ALternator/Generator impact bracket (3 bolts)

Clamp off coolant inlet/outlet

Unscrew ground lead

Unhindge fastening clips

Unscrew coolant lines (star bit) 1 screw on each outlet/inlet. Pull plastic coolant plugs out. Making sure you have the O rings

Remove Alternator protective cap

Unplug connector plug

Unbolt 3 bolts holding alternator 2 side 1 on top

Spend 45 minutes trying to work its way out the side wheel well through the opening from the air cleaner box. You onl have an extra MM of clearence.

Reverse.......

ltc

The last time I spoke with Larry he wasn't very talkative, so I can't offer details.

However he did mention something about verifying that you don't have a high quiescent current load on the battery due to a faulty module somewhere in the vehicle.

The P!g might be detecting this condition (real or imagined) and be trying to disconnect the battery to prevent a total discharge, thus giving the message about what's going on under your seat.

Your new battery may have fallen victim to this.
What led to the replacement in the first place? Time, age, load test?

Yes, liquid cooled alternator ... Brilliant idea, just like the liquid cooled starter under the coolant tubes.

Fabianrou

Hello guys I've got an 04 S. Here's the chronology. Yesterday driving around in Tampa the A/C fan speed slowed down while indicator was still at high speed (all bars lit up) A minute later got this message BATTERY GENERATOR which lasted 2 seconds and went away, 10 minutes after another message ELECTRIC LOAD SHUT OFF which is permanent now. Battery indicator now reads 11.9 or just below 12V instead of the usual 14V. I was able to get home about a 30 min ride. My first gut reaction is ALTERNATOR but want to make sure I explore any other options and not just throw parts at it specially a $500 alternator plus the pain in the rear to put it on. I've been looking online and seen different opinions and other options seem to be: 1) Ground cables and 2) V.E.S. module which does have some signs of going bad when you start getting weird little quirks like radio turning off by itself which happened to me last month once. Also my tailgate rarely opens form the back of all the sudden I have to hit the door switch first. Any other things that could be wrong before I go and by an alternator? I did replace both batteries (Interstate) 2 years ago. Is there a way too test the alternator without taking it somewhere? I made it home by luck I think. Also the fact that it is charging almost 12V would that be a sign that it is NOT the alternator meaning that when they fail they just stop putting out voltage or is it possible that can they just fail in terms of putting out only 12V instead of the 14V I always see in the dash? Really appreciate your help. Thanks!

By the way I do have DURAMETRIC

rtillotson

im having the same issue 04 S. I can get mine back to 14v after the oil and engine are up to temp and I give it a few hard accelerations and after the load switch turns off. Did you find a fix to the problem?

william100

what alternator did you go with when you replaced yours?