Installed LED DRL
05-19-2012, 09:58 AM
#16
It dims the DRL when the sidelights are switched on if the orange wire is connected into the wire on the back of the plug inside the wing as per Little Greens write up. Top row, 3rd wire from the left
05-19-2012, 01:35 PM
#17
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sorry so has he connected the orange wire inside of the vehicle near to the fuse box... or in the engine bay?
Is its in the engine bay i understand that the feed to the side lights has to be picked up but i also know there is a fuse for the side lights in the car
if that makes any sense....
Is its in the engine bay i understand that the feed to the side lights has to be picked up but i also know there is a fuse for the side lights in the car
if that makes any sense....
05-20-2012, 06:50 PM
#20
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Pervy
I like the longer dual light set up. Very nice. May do the same. Did you run two boxes or did you solid one set of light into the other?
I like the longer dual light set up. Very nice. May do the same. Did you run two boxes or did you solid one set of light into the other?
05-21-2012, 04:06 AM
#21
I just cut off 8" of cable and spliced the 2 together, so I have a spare box and 2 long leads with plugs left over, I may buy some cheaper LED lights only and make up a new set!
05-21-2012, 09:21 AM
#22
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Did you tap into a fuse in the engine compartment or did you go into the car and hit the fuse panel on the drivers side?
I tapped into the engine but everything in the fuse box is "engine" related and I am concerned about pulling power away from an engine component. They seem to be working perfect just making sure nothing goes bad.
I tapped into the engine but everything in the fuse box is "engine" related and I am concerned about pulling power away from an engine component. They seem to be working perfect just making sure nothing goes bad.
08-25-2012, 05:11 PM
#25
I actually saw these lights on a DIY car show and decided to do it to my 06 CS. Now that I am all done, I just found this tread, of course.
Anyway, I liked the look, but thought a single 8-light bar would be too short. And 8-LED and and the 4-LED would fit better on my car, but the two bars look totally different.... So this is what I did:
I got 2 sets of 8-LED lights, not unlike what 911PERVY did. On my car, though, they would not fit the width of my space, but I knew this going in. Once I got the lights, I could see that there was a lot of extra meat on the sides, and if I placed the lights right next to each other, there would be a noticeable gap in between the lights. I wanted a more seamless look.
The part that I did differently was I ground down the metal and some of the glass, on the sides that would touch each other, until the space between the end lights on each set was equal to the distance of the lights on each set. I then used JB Weld to fuse the 2 pieces into one, waited for that to dry in the clamps, and then tested the placement on the car. I also had to cut out the left and right sides of the cover, since my lights were longer than the space available.
I noticed that there was a big space on the outside edges of the car (from the edge of the cover to the 1st LED), and where the lights went behind the inside edges, that only 1/2 of a LED was exposed. What I did then was ground down the lower outside edges of the lights to allow them to shift outwards. This brought that 1/2 showing LED in so it could now be viewed, and actually the outer and inner LEDs have similar spacing to their respective edges. Once I had everything where I wanted it, I simply used marine grade epoxy to hold the lights where I wanted them.
-Bill
Anyway, I liked the look, but thought a single 8-light bar would be too short. And 8-LED and and the 4-LED would fit better on my car, but the two bars look totally different.... So this is what I did:
I got 2 sets of 8-LED lights, not unlike what 911PERVY did. On my car, though, they would not fit the width of my space, but I knew this going in. Once I got the lights, I could see that there was a lot of extra meat on the sides, and if I placed the lights right next to each other, there would be a noticeable gap in between the lights. I wanted a more seamless look.
The part that I did differently was I ground down the metal and some of the glass, on the sides that would touch each other, until the space between the end lights on each set was equal to the distance of the lights on each set. I then used JB Weld to fuse the 2 pieces into one, waited for that to dry in the clamps, and then tested the placement on the car. I also had to cut out the left and right sides of the cover, since my lights were longer than the space available.
I noticed that there was a big space on the outside edges of the car (from the edge of the cover to the 1st LED), and where the lights went behind the inside edges, that only 1/2 of a LED was exposed. What I did then was ground down the lower outside edges of the lights to allow them to shift outwards. This brought that 1/2 showing LED in so it could now be viewed, and actually the outer and inner LEDs have similar spacing to their respective edges. Once I had everything where I wanted it, I simply used marine grade epoxy to hold the lights where I wanted them.
-Bill
09-09-2012, 11:37 AM
#27
Power for daytime running lights
Hi, I purchased some DRLs that aren't as fancy as the Phillips (no black box or orange wire). Mine only have a red (power) and black wire. I bought a fuse tap and got power from the fuse box in the engine compartment. My problem is that I cannot find a circuit that only powers the DRLs when the car is on. I tried every fuse. Now, I did find an empty fuse spot in the cabin fuse box that turns off when the car is off, but then I would need to wire through the firewall, which presents another problem...I can't find any guidance on how to do that. I would rather just keep the wiring to the engine compartment. Any suggestions?
Oh, I have an 04 Cayenne S (45k miles)-- just picked it up for $19k
Oh, I have an 04 Cayenne S (45k miles)-- just picked it up for $19k
09-13-2012, 11:10 PM
#30
I tried wiring my lights into the fuse box in the engine bay. This worked, but I later found that after my car was running, and I shut it down, there would be small fluctuating voltages to that box, which would cause my lights to turn on and off, for like 20 minutes after I turned off the car. This may be an issue specific to the Philips lights, though. I really don't know.
My solution was to hook the wire into a empty, switched slot in the drivers side fuse box in the front dash. When the power is, there is no power going to that fuse, and it cured my issue. It brings up another issue - running a wire through the firewall. After trying several ways, I found an easy way to do it. Remove the access panel under the steering wheel. If you look above your accelerator (on my car anyway) there is a bundle of wires that goes into the firewall, surrounded by a rubber flange. I straightened out and sharpened the tip of a wire coat hanger, taped my wire to the other end of that. I shoved the coat hanger into the outer edge of the rubber flange - pointing it upwards and away from the wire bundle, and pushed it through the flange. It came out in the upper, center of the engine bay. I pulled it, and the wire into the engine bay and hooked it into my other wire that ended in the engine bays fuse box and all is well. I also put a dollop of marine grade silicone on the wire where it came into the engine bay to keep moisture from entering my new hole.
I hope this helps.
My solution was to hook the wire into a empty, switched slot in the drivers side fuse box in the front dash. When the power is, there is no power going to that fuse, and it cured my issue. It brings up another issue - running a wire through the firewall. After trying several ways, I found an easy way to do it. Remove the access panel under the steering wheel. If you look above your accelerator (on my car anyway) there is a bundle of wires that goes into the firewall, surrounded by a rubber flange. I straightened out and sharpened the tip of a wire coat hanger, taped my wire to the other end of that. I shoved the coat hanger into the outer edge of the rubber flange - pointing it upwards and away from the wire bundle, and pushed it through the flange. It came out in the upper, center of the engine bay. I pulled it, and the wire into the engine bay and hooked it into my other wire that ended in the engine bays fuse box and all is well. I also put a dollop of marine grade silicone on the wire where it came into the engine bay to keep moisture from entering my new hole.
I hope this helps.