Door open warning
03-09-2018 | 09:47 PM
#16
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 1
Repair Microswitch that triggers Door Open Warning
I’m responding to this old thread, bra cause it’s the #2 hit when looking for solutions to a door open fault.
My wife’s car has been experiencing a persistent door open fault of the passenger door. The problem was causing the car car alarm system to sound-off. It was also discharging the battery because courtesy lights and alarms were non consistently activated.
I pulled the door lock and found that the microswitch had no tension. Turns out that the tiny plastic post holding spring tension to the brass contact swivel.
I was able to repair the issue manually.
This video helped me to identify the micro switch that governs the door open fault, how to remove it for cleaning and repair, and the correct assembly of the contact components inside of the micro switch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5dtdyDDgrw&sns=em
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frozenwaffles (01-20-2024)
03-13-2018 | 04:36 PM
#18
Racer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 339
Likes: 96
From: Calgary, AB
I’m responding to this old thread, bra cause it’s the #2 hit when looking for solutions to a door open fault.
My wife’s car has been experiencing a persistent door open fault of the passenger door. The problem was causing the car car alarm system to sound-off. It was also discharging the battery because courtesy lights and alarms were non consistently activated.
I pulled the door lock and found that the microswitch had no tension. Turns out that the tiny plastic post holding spring tension to the brass contact swivel.
I was able to repair the issue manually.
This video helped me to identify the micro switch that governs the door open fault, how to remove it for cleaning and repair, and the correct assembly of the contact components inside of the micro switch.
My wife’s car has been experiencing a persistent door open fault of the passenger door. The problem was causing the car car alarm system to sound-off. It was also discharging the battery because courtesy lights and alarms were non consistently activated.
I pulled the door lock and found that the microswitch had no tension. Turns out that the tiny plastic post holding spring tension to the brass contact swivel.
I was able to repair the issue manually.
This video helped me to identify the micro switch that governs the door open fault, how to remove it for cleaning and repair, and the correct assembly of the contact components inside of the micro switch.
03-13-2018 | 06:17 PM
#19
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 1
Door Open Warning
Here is the process I completed to fix The door micro switch in the passenger door.
Tools you will need:
set of 6-point torx drives.
Set of 12 point, or triple square, drive to on attach the lock mechanism.
Small hand picks
small screwdrivers
small interior finish prybar’s
Flashlight
1. Remove armrest and door panel. Four torques head bolts.
2. Pop off the finish upholstered door panel with a pry tool. Unplug the speaker wire, and the bottom door light wire and unhook the Bowden cable From the door latch mechanism. As I recall, there was another wire or two that I simply left and place and was able to work around. The white plastic clip holding the Belden cable will slide out the back of the door latch mechanism. I was able to work around the other wires.
3. There is a metal inner door panel. There are approximately 8 to 10 torque bolts around the sides and across the bottom. I then drilled out six or seven rivets holding on the top of the inter-metal door panel to the doorframe. There is also A trim escutcheon on either side of the window frame where it meets the top of the door panel with very small rivets. I removed those discussions in the rivets.
there are two rivets holding a plastic brace for the lock set. You’ll see those on the inner door panel close to the area where the locks it is. You must grind those off, or drill them out
4. PI’ll the Bowdin cable through all of the inner door panels.
5. Keep the window rolled up. You do not need to attend to move any of the inner frame structure or window mechanism.
6. On the rear inside edge of the door structure, there is a Adjacent to the exterior door handle. Pop that plastic cap off and loosen the retention Bolt for the exterior door handle. You will then be able to extract the stationary component of the exterior door handle. You need to pull this out, so that you can loosen the pull cable from the operable element of the exterior door handle. It’s a small black tab that snaps into the door handle. I was able to move it out with a pic.
7. Remove the two retaining bolts for the door lock set. At this point the locks set should be unfastened and you can begin to wiggle it. There is a white hard plastic Weathershield snapped on to the lock set. You will not be able to slip the locks it out of the door without removing the plastic weather guard. It’s snaps off. You will then be able to access the nine prong plug that goes into the bottom of the lock set. Now you should be able to wiggle the lock set out of the car door. It takes a little bit of effort.
My wife’s car has 170,000 miles on it, Plus a couple of dings. At this stage, we’re just keeping it going safely in maintaining it. So what I’m about to say will probably apall most Porsche owners, but I did not re-insert rivets when I reassembled door. In part, because I want to make certain that this is a permanent fix. So far so good. Upon looking at it carefully I think that sheet metal screws will be adequate in place of the rivets removed.
Good luck
Tools you will need:
set of 6-point torx drives.
Set of 12 point, or triple square, drive to on attach the lock mechanism.
Small hand picks
small screwdrivers
small interior finish prybar’s
Flashlight
1. Remove armrest and door panel. Four torques head bolts.
2. Pop off the finish upholstered door panel with a pry tool. Unplug the speaker wire, and the bottom door light wire and unhook the Bowden cable From the door latch mechanism. As I recall, there was another wire or two that I simply left and place and was able to work around. The white plastic clip holding the Belden cable will slide out the back of the door latch mechanism. I was able to work around the other wires.
3. There is a metal inner door panel. There are approximately 8 to 10 torque bolts around the sides and across the bottom. I then drilled out six or seven rivets holding on the top of the inter-metal door panel to the doorframe. There is also A trim escutcheon on either side of the window frame where it meets the top of the door panel with very small rivets. I removed those discussions in the rivets.
there are two rivets holding a plastic brace for the lock set. You’ll see those on the inner door panel close to the area where the locks it is. You must grind those off, or drill them out
4. PI’ll the Bowdin cable through all of the inner door panels.
5. Keep the window rolled up. You do not need to attend to move any of the inner frame structure or window mechanism.
6. On the rear inside edge of the door structure, there is a Adjacent to the exterior door handle. Pop that plastic cap off and loosen the retention Bolt for the exterior door handle. You will then be able to extract the stationary component of the exterior door handle. You need to pull this out, so that you can loosen the pull cable from the operable element of the exterior door handle. It’s a small black tab that snaps into the door handle. I was able to move it out with a pic.
7. Remove the two retaining bolts for the door lock set. At this point the locks set should be unfastened and you can begin to wiggle it. There is a white hard plastic Weathershield snapped on to the lock set. You will not be able to slip the locks it out of the door without removing the plastic weather guard. It’s snaps off. You will then be able to access the nine prong plug that goes into the bottom of the lock set. Now you should be able to wiggle the lock set out of the car door. It takes a little bit of effort.
My wife’s car has 170,000 miles on it, Plus a couple of dings. At this stage, we’re just keeping it going safely in maintaining it. So what I’m about to say will probably apall most Porsche owners, but I did not re-insert rivets when I reassembled door. In part, because I want to make certain that this is a permanent fix. So far so good. Upon looking at it carefully I think that sheet metal screws will be adequate in place of the rivets removed.
Good luck
03-13-2018 | 07:50 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 305
From: Kaukauna Wisconsin
So what I’m about to say will probably apall most Porsche owners, but I did not re-insert rivets when I reassembled door. In part, because I want to make certain that this is a permanent fix. So far so good. Upon looking at it carefully I think that sheet metal screws will be adequate in place of the rivets removed.
Sacrilege!!!!!
You must suffer punishment!!!!!!
Kidding.
I think sheetmetal screws would be a much better replacement than rivets. Rivets are used because they are cheap and simple.
Thanks for the very clear writeup on the door panel.
It's nice to have available. I don't need it...
Yet.
03-13-2018 | 07:52 PM
#21
Racer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 339
Likes: 96
From: Calgary, AB
Yes, thanks for the detailed write up! The manual says "Remove front door sub-frame"…but it sounds similar to a window cable replacement. And btw I think most people just use sheet metal screws, and, horrifyingly, mine don't even all match each other! Although I did re-rivet that plastic brace thing. I'll post once done.
02-20-2021 | 08:42 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 432
Likes: 24
From: Frankfurt / Main / Germany
Door warning light
Having the same issue.
need to replace the door latch.
Additional problem, if I lock the door now. Alarm starting after some minutes.
is there any fuse I can pull ?
Otherwise I need to leave it open.
Would not like to have the car outside with open doors.
need to replace the door latch.
Additional problem, if I lock the door now. Alarm starting after some minutes.
is there any fuse I can pull ?
Otherwise I need to leave it open.
Would not like to have the car outside with open doors.
09-24-2023 | 12:54 PM
#23
2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Video for removing door panel to access lock module
Thank you, 1958, for the awesome video and very well detailed description. I'm a visual guy, so I'd like to ask for a link to the video where you show how to remove the panel. You mentioned some wires get pulled, others you work around. Need to drill or grind rivets, then sheetmetal screws to keep things together. I'm confused. Mostly afraid to do it incorrectly and end up with a door with no panel. I know his is an old post but I'm hoping you have a link to a video for this... thanks, you rock. V.
Here is the process I completed to fix The door micro switch in the passenger door.
Tools you will need:
set of 6-point torx drives.
Set of 12 point, or triple square, drive to on attach the lock mechanism.
Small hand picks
small screwdrivers
small interior finish prybar’s
Flashlight
1. Remove armrest and door panel. Four torques head bolts.
2. Pop off the finish upholstered door panel with a pry tool. Unplug the speaker wire, and the bottom door light wire and unhook the Bowden cable From the door latch mechanism. As I recall, there was another wire or two that I simply left and place and was able to work around. The white plastic clip holding the Belden cable will slide out the back of the door latch mechanism. I was able to work around the other wires.
3. There is a metal inner door panel. There are approximately 8 to 10 torque bolts around the sides and across the bottom. I then drilled out six or seven rivets holding on the top of the inter-metal door panel to the doorframe. There is also A trim escutcheon on either side of the window frame where it meets the top of the door panel with very small rivets. I removed those discussions in the rivets.
there are two rivets holding a plastic brace for the lock set. You’ll see those on the inner door panel close to the area where the locks it is. You must grind those off, or drill them out
4. PI’ll the Bowdin cable through all of the inner door panels.
5. Keep the window rolled up. You do not need to attend to move any of the inner frame structure or window mechanism.
6. On the rear inside edge of the door structure, there is a Adjacent to the exterior door handle. Pop that plastic cap off and loosen the retention Bolt for the exterior door handle. You will then be able to extract the stationary component of the exterior door handle. You need to pull this out, so that you can loosen the pull cable from the operable element of the exterior door handle. It’s a small black tab that snaps into the door handle. I was able to move it out with a pic.
7. Remove the two retaining bolts for the door lock set. At this point the locks set should be unfastened and you can begin to wiggle it. There is a white hard plastic Weathershield snapped on to the lock set. You will not be able to slip the locks it out of the door without removing the plastic weather guard. It’s snaps off. You will then be able to access the nine prong plug that goes into the bottom of the lock set. Now you should be able to wiggle the lock set out of the car door. It takes a little bit of effort.
My wife’s car has 170,000 miles on it, Plus a couple of dings. At this stage, we’re just keeping it going safely in maintaining it. So what I’m about to say will probably apall most Porsche owners, but I did not re-insert rivets when I reassembled door. In part, because I want to make certain that this is a permanent fix. So far so good. Upon looking at it carefully I think that sheet metal screws will be adequate in place of the rivets removed.
Good luck
Tools you will need:
set of 6-point torx drives.
Set of 12 point, or triple square, drive to on attach the lock mechanism.
Small hand picks
small screwdrivers
small interior finish prybar’s
Flashlight
1. Remove armrest and door panel. Four torques head bolts.
2. Pop off the finish upholstered door panel with a pry tool. Unplug the speaker wire, and the bottom door light wire and unhook the Bowden cable From the door latch mechanism. As I recall, there was another wire or two that I simply left and place and was able to work around. The white plastic clip holding the Belden cable will slide out the back of the door latch mechanism. I was able to work around the other wires.
3. There is a metal inner door panel. There are approximately 8 to 10 torque bolts around the sides and across the bottom. I then drilled out six or seven rivets holding on the top of the inter-metal door panel to the doorframe. There is also A trim escutcheon on either side of the window frame where it meets the top of the door panel with very small rivets. I removed those discussions in the rivets.
there are two rivets holding a plastic brace for the lock set. You’ll see those on the inner door panel close to the area where the locks it is. You must grind those off, or drill them out
4. PI’ll the Bowdin cable through all of the inner door panels.
5. Keep the window rolled up. You do not need to attend to move any of the inner frame structure or window mechanism.
6. On the rear inside edge of the door structure, there is a Adjacent to the exterior door handle. Pop that plastic cap off and loosen the retention Bolt for the exterior door handle. You will then be able to extract the stationary component of the exterior door handle. You need to pull this out, so that you can loosen the pull cable from the operable element of the exterior door handle. It’s a small black tab that snaps into the door handle. I was able to move it out with a pic.
7. Remove the two retaining bolts for the door lock set. At this point the locks set should be unfastened and you can begin to wiggle it. There is a white hard plastic Weathershield snapped on to the lock set. You will not be able to slip the locks it out of the door without removing the plastic weather guard. It’s snaps off. You will then be able to access the nine prong plug that goes into the bottom of the lock set. Now you should be able to wiggle the lock set out of the car door. It takes a little bit of effort.
My wife’s car has 170,000 miles on it, Plus a couple of dings. At this stage, we’re just keeping it going safely in maintaining it. So what I’m about to say will probably apall most Porsche owners, but I did not re-insert rivets when I reassembled door. In part, because I want to make certain that this is a permanent fix. So far so good. Upon looking at it carefully I think that sheet metal screws will be adequate in place of the rivets removed.
Good luck
