Changing a burned out brake light bulb...
#1
Rocky Mountain High
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Changing a burned out brake light bulb...
I've changed many, many brake light bulbs over the years. NONE of them have been as difficult as the Cayenne bulb. Holy sh*t it was hard to get the tail light assembly out! There was much profanity. After 20 minutes of pulling, fearing that I would break off a critical plastic tab, I finally got it out. Sometimes I'm amazed at how German engineers think. This should have been a 2 minute job and it took 25 minutes.
#2
I've changed many, many brake light bulbs over the years. NONE of them have been as difficult as the Cayenne bulb. Holy sh*t it was hard to get the tail light assembly out! There was much profanity. After 20 minutes of pulling, fearing that I would break off a critical plastic tab, I finally got it out. Sometimes I'm amazed at how German engineers think. This should have been a 2 minute job and it took 25 minutes.
#3
Rocky Mountain High
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I'm sure the dealer would have gladly changed it on my next visit...
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I was thinking of this last week.
With DRL my parking bulbs are always on and I have never replaced any of the bulbs -- although the headlight clusters have made up for that!
Any tricks to making it easier?
With DRL my parking bulbs are always on and I have never replaced any of the bulbs -- although the headlight clusters have made up for that!
Any tricks to making it easier?
#5
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I hear ya. Really stupid design. Putting the tail lights back in is equally stupid because you really have to push them hard. I cracked one of my tail lights replacing a bulb last year. Why they aren't accessible from inside the trunk is beyond me.
#6
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I did mine in about ten minutes last weekend while putting on the Curt hitch. It just so happened a brake light bulb went out a few days prior. Tail light removal was the easy part of the task.
#7
Rocky Mountain High
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The only trick I can think of is to keep wiggling it back and forth until it finally pops out. It takes more force than you'd expect for something like this.
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#8
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Umm...
Once you undo the torx, you should be able to get a little play in it. Wiggle it to get a small gap at the joint along the fender and insert something that won't mark the paint (Maybe a flat-head screwdriver with some electrical tape? I used a small plastic pry bar.) about halfway up. Gently pry it out while keeping it as straight as possible with the other hand.
Once you undo the torx, you should be able to get a little play in it. Wiggle it to get a small gap at the joint along the fender and insert something that won't mark the paint (Maybe a flat-head screwdriver with some electrical tape? I used a small plastic pry bar.) about halfway up. Gently pry it out while keeping it as straight as possible with the other hand.
#9
Rocky Mountain High
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Yup. Tried that for about 20 minutes. Wouldn't budge. Then I put a strong piece of string in the gap, slid it down into position and used that to pull. Still wouldn't budge. Finally, it came out with consistent pulling and back and forth motion.
#12
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Dennis, 9 inch flat blade driver with driving glove to protect paint. use your hip to apply steadily increasing pressure while holding the unit with your hands. Don't rock it just apply pressure, it will pop
#14
Hi Dennis,
Think you have been very unlucky.
I've just completed a 500mile trip and got the check brake warning on dash display. Quick look on here and deployed the "wiggle" teqnique and POP..straight off!!
All done in under 10 mins.....second thought maybe I was lucky
FP
P.S / I'm trying to post pics but no joy
Update - Ipad doesnt like to add attachments. Images re-sized
Think you have been very unlucky.
I've just completed a 500mile trip and got the check brake warning on dash display. Quick look on here and deployed the "wiggle" teqnique and POP..straight off!!
All done in under 10 mins.....second thought maybe I was lucky
FP
P.S / I'm trying to post pics but no joy
Update - Ipad doesnt like to add attachments. Images re-sized
Last edited by Frutti_pig; 08-14-2013 at 08:24 AM.