Cardan shaft DIY...and other stuff...
#106
Burning Brakes
You sound like you did it pretty carefully, but since you asked, here are some ideas ...
- I assume there was no rotation of the driveshaft during assembly, so the new flex disk went in the same way the old one came out, vs. for example no random 1/6 rotation happening in there.
- Maybe the tightening sequence was important. I understand the loosening of the bearing support to get the wiggle room needed. But I would probably have followed up with ... install the flex disk fasteners, finger tight or looser ; torque down the bearing support, trying to make it exactly as it was before ; torquing of the flex disk fasteners ... test drive. Not sure if that's what you did. But if you torqued down the flex disk first, it could be that the bearing support was not alignable when you then torqued that down, and being slightly misaligned, led to a vibration.
BTW, I'm at almost 104k miles on my 2004 S with no Cardan shaft problems yet. Getting ready for a pre-emptive repair on that. Once you get all done with this, I'll be curious what you think about replacing the flex disk (guibo, giubo) at the same time. I've read that it's the stiffening of the flex disk that leads to the bearing support failure, so they recommend doing both when the bearing support fails.
- I assume there was no rotation of the driveshaft during assembly, so the new flex disk went in the same way the old one came out, vs. for example no random 1/6 rotation happening in there.
- Maybe the tightening sequence was important. I understand the loosening of the bearing support to get the wiggle room needed. But I would probably have followed up with ... install the flex disk fasteners, finger tight or looser ; torque down the bearing support, trying to make it exactly as it was before ; torquing of the flex disk fasteners ... test drive. Not sure if that's what you did. But if you torqued down the flex disk first, it could be that the bearing support was not alignable when you then torqued that down, and being slightly misaligned, led to a vibration.
BTW, I'm at almost 104k miles on my 2004 S with no Cardan shaft problems yet. Getting ready for a pre-emptive repair on that. Once you get all done with this, I'll be curious what you think about replacing the flex disk (guibo, giubo) at the same time. I've read that it's the stiffening of the flex disk that leads to the bearing support failure, so they recommend doing both when the bearing support fails.
#107
I hate to admit it, but years ago I tried to do my own center bearing replacement. I'm pretty good with this type of stuff and have assembled plenty of CV's without problem. I never could get the shaft to stop vibrating after so I gave up and bought one from Vertex. I did everything right. I marked orientation at both end and the middle before disassembly. I replaced the GUIBO. I even had to return one to vertex the second time around. It was defective. They rebuild a bunch of them. Who knows.
Never again. It's such a poor, cheap design. The flange on the trans and rear diff is balanced at the factory that makes them. Orientation shouldn't matter here.
I have added the one piece driveshaft from DSS to my list of Cayenne reliabilty/basic mods. ~$900 and never look back.
Never again. It's such a poor, cheap design. The flange on the trans and rear diff is balanced at the factory that makes them. Orientation shouldn't matter here.
I have added the one piece driveshaft from DSS to my list of Cayenne reliabilty/basic mods. ~$900 and never look back.
The following users liked this post:
frederickcook87 (10-14-2023)
#108
Race Car
Originally Posted by David944s2
Last year I replaced the failed center bearing support with you Drive Shaft Clamping Center Support product on my ’08 Cayenne S without any issue at all. I drove the car for over a year and decided to do some preventative maintenance and replaced the Flex Disk yesterday.
The replacement was straight forward, loosened the center bearing support mounts to get some wiggle room and removed/replaced re-checked washer orientation on flex disk, followed directions on torque settings. Tightened up the center support, looked around, all looked, felt good.
On my test drive I picked-up a meaningful vibration in the drive shaft at about 30mph, worst at 35mph and starts to disappear around 40mph. I went under the car today, everything is tight and looks good. The internet hasn’t helped, just some references to a bearing alignment tool for the center support bearing, but nothing much else.
I thought maybe there is an orientation issue between the Cardan Shaft and the transmission, but I don’t see anything there at all.
Ideas?
The replacement was straight forward, loosened the center bearing support mounts to get some wiggle room and removed/replaced re-checked washer orientation on flex disk, followed directions on torque settings. Tightened up the center support, looked around, all looked, felt good.
On my test drive I picked-up a meaningful vibration in the drive shaft at about 30mph, worst at 35mph and starts to disappear around 40mph. I went under the car today, everything is tight and looks good. The internet hasn’t helped, just some references to a bearing alignment tool for the center support bearing, but nothing much else.
I thought maybe there is an orientation issue between the Cardan Shaft and the transmission, but I don’t see anything there at all.
Ideas?
Worked for me after installing EPS bearing support.
#109
I hate to admit it, but years ago I tried to do my own center bearing replacement. I'm pretty good with this type of stuff and have assembled plenty of CV's without problem. I never could get the shaft to stop vibrating after so I gave up and bought one from Vertex. I did everything right. I marked orientation at both end and the middle before disassembly. I replaced the GUIBO. I even had to return one to vertex the second time around. It was defective. They rebuild a bunch of them. Who knows.
Never again. It's such a poor, cheap design. The flange on the trans and rear diff is balanced at the factory that makes them. Orientation shouldn't matter here.
I have added the one piece driveshaft from DSS to my list of Cayenne reliabilty/basic mods. ~$900 and never look back.
Never again. It's such a poor, cheap design. The flange on the trans and rear diff is balanced at the factory that makes them. Orientation shouldn't matter here.
I have added the one piece driveshaft from DSS to my list of Cayenne reliabilty/basic mods. ~$900 and never look back.
#110
Tom - I ran into the same problem and I decided to do the same desperate procedure as you did - the only difference - I put the truck on four jack stands with all wheels off the ground. Then also with the parking brake all the way down, I started the engine and as soon I put it in drive I heard it break loose, no throttle needed.
I think it is important to note to make sure the exhaust is still on, put a piece of wood in between the exhaust and the shaft so the shaft can land on it.
I am sure the Cayenne has a similar layout of the exhaust like the Touareg.
cheers
I think it is important to note to make sure the exhaust is still on, put a piece of wood in between the exhaust and the shaft so the shaft can land on it.
I am sure the Cayenne has a similar layout of the exhaust like the Touareg.
cheers
P.S. What does everyone do with their old cardan shaft? Rebuild and keep as spare or junkyard? The joints and bearing still feel and look good.
Last edited by Fanatic; 05-25-2022 at 06:18 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by cwheeler:
Fanatic (05-27-2022),
frederickcook87 (10-14-2023)