I am getting ready to change the brake pads on my CS. I got a set of the Hawk ceramics. I have about 45k miles and from reading some of the post it looks like new rotors may be needed. I don't have a set of calipers to measure the wear, and I'm not even sure what the wear should be. I definitely have a lip on all of the rotors.

So for everyone that has changed their pads, were new rotors needed, or did the Stealer just say you need them.

To remove the rotors, do you need a 12 point bit to get them off.

Thanks,

 

Porsche says you need them, mostly you don't. I changed mine on the second pad set and i know a lot who have done the same. If you are changing pad type, you might want a fresh set for that tho'

 

If you got 45K miles on your first set of pads, you might as well change the rotors. Even if they are within spec, they will be worn enough that you won't get them to last another 45K miles when you replace pads again. I went almost 51K miles on my front pads and changed the rotors at the same time. Some people only get 25K miles on a set of pads, and for them the rotors can wait until the 50K point.

There are lots of write ups on RennTech.org to help you with the procedure and the tools you will need. You will need a big torx bit and a BIG torque wrench. It's not very hard though.

 

Speaking only based on what I read on this forum, I do recall you need a special tool for the rear. This maybe the big torx bit Renn 951 is talking about but I am not sure. But do check before you start. Also, don't forget to get new pad sensor while you are at it, I don't think you can re-use the old ones.

 

OK, check the link attached. You need a T50 6 pt torx bit for the front rotors. A 12 pt bit is required for the rear (I haven't tackled the rears yet, but I'll likely do that in the next month or so.)

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=brake+rotor

 

Personally it isn't worth the hassle I'd have to go thru if I just changed the pads, esp. if I was changing the pad type, then to have to take it apart and do it again to change the rotors. Rotors aren't that expensive. I'll be doing my rears in the next month or so, I'll get the rotors and replacement parts from Sunset and the pads from whoever had the best recommendation on the forum, I think this was just discussed last month.

 

Thanks for the input. I will probably get rotors now. I plan on keeping the CS for a long time.

I am good with the tools. I loaded up on them when I dropped the engine in my 993. I didn't know that you needed a T50 for the front. I have the 12 pt bit for the back and a few torque wrenches.

I hope that Hawk Ceramics are the way to go. I thought I saw mudman2 say they weren't recommended.

 

I know lots of people have gone to Hawk pads, but I'm not sure about ceramics.

I changed mine last month and I went with the stock Brembo pads.

 

I have went through 3 set of pads and now will need to do the 4th set and will need to new rotors. Original rotors are still on, btw when I bought the car and had PPI done they said I need new rotors. That was 60k km ago.
I have 102k km on her and the lip on the rotors are about 2/16" deep on both sides of the rotor.

 

My problem usually hasn't been due to rotor thickness but due to pedal pulsing (rotor warp?). Pedal pulse is just one of those things that irritates the hell out of me. I'll replace the rotors twice as often just to keep the pulsing out.

 

That is WAY beyond spec.

 

Sorry I just rechecked. 2/16.

 

Cayenne brake discs minimum thickness:
front 32 mm
rear 26 mm

Thickness tolerance of the brake discs
max. 0.02 mm

Lateral runout of the brake disc
max. 0.03 mm

Lateral runout of the wheel hub
max. 0.01 mm

Lateral runout of the brake disc when installed
max. 0.06 mm

 

Hi.. Do the Minimum's of 32mm front and 26mm rear apply to a 2005 Cayenne Turbo ? txs

 

Min. thickness should be stamped on the rotor hats themselves.