Battery maintenance question
06-04-2008, 08:04 PM
#31
As usual, the Annals of Rennlist held true. 
I only have a spare tire and a subwoofer in the rear... even though the owner's manual has a section on removing the auxiliary battery.
So, I moved on to the driver's seat and realized that I don't have the exact tool to remove the two bolts holding the front of the driver's seat down.
It looks like I need a 12 spline 9 mm bit, and of course, I only have an 8 mm and a 10 mm.
So, I'm getting really tired of this action. I don't have any square bits and don't really want to run about town in search of a 9 mm spline bit. I have some other bits that 'sort' of fit, but I don't want to strip the factory fastener.
Does anyone have a picture of the uncovered battery under the driver's seat? Is it truly a sealed-no maintenance unit? Or do the cells need to be topped off with distilled H2O as my owner's manual suggests?
All the Moll Batteries in my 911s need to be topped off. Go figure.
I only have a spare tire and a subwoofer in the rear... even though the owner's manual has a section on removing the auxiliary battery.
So, I moved on to the driver's seat and realized that I don't have the exact tool to remove the two bolts holding the front of the driver's seat down.
It looks like I need a 12 spline 9 mm bit, and of course, I only have an 8 mm and a 10 mm.
So, I'm getting really tired of this action. I don't have any square bits and don't really want to run about town in search of a 9 mm spline bit. I have some other bits that 'sort' of fit, but I don't want to strip the factory fastener.
Does anyone have a picture of the uncovered battery under the driver's seat? Is it truly a sealed-no maintenance unit? Or do the cells need to be topped off with distilled H2O as my owner's manual suggests?
All the Moll Batteries in my 911s need to be topped off. Go figure.
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-11-P...2620447&sr=1-1
I like to pick this up before my battery goes. So when time comes, I only have to buy a fresh battery and not having to worry about finding tools for it.
06-04-2008, 08:14 PM
#32
06-04-2008, 08:33 PM
#33
It seems like newer batteries have a fairly limited life. Five years seems optimistic to me. I had to change my Saab battery at 3 years, and had to do the same for my wife's previous Saab. We had a Dodge Durango for 3 years before the Saabs, and it lasted just shy of 3 years.
And the battery was so small when I brought it to the autoparts store, the guy at the counter told me they dont sell batteries for lawnmowers
06-04-2008, 11:05 PM
#34
Rocky Mountain High
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I have owned 3 Hondas - 2 Civics and 1 Accord. I never replaced a battery in any of them. I wish I still had one of the Civics now that my son is just taking Driver's Ed classes.
06-05-2008, 12:57 AM
#35
Why do I feel so left out!
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LTC,
I like teasing you.... "!" "!" "!" "!" "!"
Simon.
I like teasing you.... "!" "!" "!" "!" "!"
Simon.
06-05-2008, 10:19 AM
#36
Race Director
My photo of my 3 square socket/wrench didn't come out very well, I'll post it but take a better one of the set later today.
Last edited by Slow Guy; 12-24-2014 at 01:38 PM.
06-05-2008, 11:30 AM
#37
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Thank you for spending the extra time taking pics for us to see. In reference to your last pic, the 12 spline bit, I have never seen this before. I have Torx bits but nothing like this. So my question is were these 2 bolts on extremely tight to a point I need to buy a high quality bit to take them off. Which may be the reason why someone mentioned Porsche recommends replacing these bolts everytime? Or if I were to buy something inexpensive like this will do:
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-11-P...2620447&sr=1-1
I like to pick this up before my battery goes. So when time comes, I only have to buy a fresh battery and not having to worry about finding tools for it.
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-11-P...2620447&sr=1-1
I like to pick this up before my battery goes. So when time comes, I only have to buy a fresh battery and not having to worry about finding tools for it.
That amazon set will work just fine. The M10 bit is the one you'll need. I wouldn't use anything other than a 12-spline (triple square) since the M10 was a tight fit. The torque spec on the 2 seat bolts is not that high, but I wouldn't want to strip them using some odd fitting bit.
The seat bolts are coated. I just used some blue Loctite on the original bolts and they torqued in just fine.
06-05-2008, 12:12 PM
#38
Race Director
Wilfred,
That amazon set will work just fine. The M10 bit is the one you'll need. I wouldn't use anything other than a 12-spline (triple square) since the M10 was a tight fit. The torque spec on the 2 seat bolts is not that high, but I wouldn't want to strip them using some odd fitting bit.
The seat bolts are coated. I just used some blue Loctite on the original bolts and they torqued in just fine.
That amazon set will work just fine. The M10 bit is the one you'll need. I wouldn't use anything other than a 12-spline (triple square) since the M10 was a tight fit. The torque spec on the 2 seat bolts is not that high, but I wouldn't want to strip them using some odd fitting bit.
The seat bolts are coated. I just used some blue Loctite on the original bolts and they torqued in just fine.
I originally bought my (4 pc.) set because the door strike plate on my old 88 911 cab needed adjusting and the triple square bolt is what's used in it.
06-05-2008, 04:09 PM
#40
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No more guessing about the battery under the seat. Just use a battery maintainer and forget about it until the unit goes on the fritz.
06-05-2008, 04:36 PM
#41
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yeah, i know the best place to get a real read on the battery is to hook up the voltometer directly to the battery. on my old bmw, the voltometer could not get a real reading from the battery posts up front, so i'd have to dig in the trunk a lil to ck the battery. but with the cayenne battery being under the seat....i don't see myself checking under there. and i'm with you; i'd rather change the battery on my own terms.
06-06-2008, 03:29 AM
#42
Wilfred,
That amazon set will work just fine. The M10 bit is the one you'll need. I wouldn't use anything other than a 12-spline (triple square) since the M10 was a tight fit. The torque spec on the 2 seat bolts is not that high, but I wouldn't want to strip them using some odd fitting bit.
The seat bolts are coated. I just used some blue Loctite on the original bolts and they torqued in just fine.
That amazon set will work just fine. The M10 bit is the one you'll need. I wouldn't use anything other than a 12-spline (triple square) since the M10 was a tight fit. The torque spec on the 2 seat bolts is not that high, but I wouldn't want to strip them using some odd fitting bit.
The seat bolts are coated. I just used some blue Loctite on the original bolts and they torqued in just fine.
Also, I came across this:
http://web.mac.com/renojoints/Touareg/Battery.html
I know the seats are quite different between the two. But what about the brackets underneath? Does the Cayenne seat tilts back enough for the battery to come out? If not, above link might be helpful to some one day.
I do find this interesting/helpful:
Plug in a jump pack or jumper cables to your power socket under the hood to maintain voltage while you remove the battery. These will help to persevere your menu settings and prevent the computer from needing a possible reset.
06-06-2008, 10:37 AM
#43
Race Director
Actually, I think the Cayenne looks to be easier than the VW. The Pepper doesn't have that bracket across the front top.
As for the triple square socket, I have the 4 pc S-K set, I don't think I bought it from these guys but you can buy just the 10mm socket if you wish. Just keep in mind it is a 1/2 in drive socket, NOT a 3/8 in drive, the 6 & 8 mm are 3/8 in drives though.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03093.html
As for the triple square socket, I have the 4 pc S-K set, I don't think I bought it from these guys but you can buy just the 10mm socket if you wish. Just keep in mind it is a 1/2 in drive socket, NOT a 3/8 in drive, the 6 & 8 mm are 3/8 in drives though.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03093.html
01-09-2011, 06:47 PM
#45
Just replaced the battery in my 06S. Man that sucked!
Thanks to all who have provided pix/guidance. My only add is that I didn't need to remove the front carpet piece, although as others point out, it's important to remove all the plastic trim from around the rear seat rails even though the manual makes no mention of it.
Thanks to all who have provided pix/guidance. My only add is that I didn't need to remove the front carpet piece, although as others point out, it's important to remove all the plastic trim from around the rear seat rails even though the manual makes no mention of it.