mudman2

To compress the pistons is very easy, I used a piece of wood (no scratches). Compress one piston then press in the new pad, that will hold that one, now do the same with the next one etc etc, piece of P.

Don't forget to buy a set of sensors as they WILL be destroyed on removal. Note the cable routing before removal.

As far as the rotors are concerned I did my change in the 35k - 40K miles range, the rotors were well within measured spec and ran true. I do not trust dealers

capt601

just planning ahead for the next brake job- (the first one involved only new pads) . but how the heck do you get the rotor bolts off and on with 200 ft/lbs needed. Is that a diy project or is a special wrench needed besides a torque wrench that will tighten to 200 ft/lbs?

thanks

Aaron_D

It's the caliper mounting bolts that require 200 ft./lbs. A long 1/2 in. drive breaker bar will break them loose and the appropriate 1/2 in. drive torque wrench will tighten them (one that goes to 250 ft./lbs. is pretty standard).

A previous poster noted that his brake rotors didn't require replacement with the pads. As I said, I recommend measuring them. Use a rotor caliper or micrometer that can reach around the lip that forms at the edge of the rotor. If they're within 0.5 mm or so of minimum, you might as well replace them. They'll be well below minimum before the new pads wear out. Also, the lip at the edge of the rotor will prematurely cut the wear sensor in the pad. You could machine the rotors to eliminate that lip, but that would make them even thinner.

Porsche apparently uses an aggressive pad compound that seems to wear rotors quickly.

mudman2

The main issue with the rotor bolts in the DIY world is the height you can get the car up to. On a lift I think it would be easy. On axle stands its a "little" harder. So its raw knuckle time, I used a 3ft pipe extension to break the seal.

capt601

just thinking of the angle to get the breaker bar - is the rotor bolt in a spot that the breaker bar would be in the wheel well area or would it be angled so that the breaker bar would be angled out the side? is that confusing?

mudman2

I cannot remember apart from the knuckles, it was tough but I got it.

marky522

I have changed countless brakes on a Cayenne and have YET to have a rotor in spec. Those "crooked" dealers follow Porsche recommended procedures. Porsche says that 32MM is min thickness for a Cayenne and 34MM is all a new one is. Make sure that if you are dispensing information you know what your talking about ESPECIALLY with brakes your advice could injure someone else.

Mark

User 4221

Mine were in spec at 31k miles ant thickness was 33.4mm

Glad I can add a flier to your statistical distribution

marky522

I appreciate that Scott, it is nice to hear that someone has been able to get through a change, those are some Expensive rotors, but you haveto pay to play right...

Mark

mudman2

However, you would say that wouldn't you.

When Porsche put out a broadcast blanket direction to change rotors on EVERY pad change when its so driving related what are we inexperienced humans supposed to think.