I am pissed! And a warning to you new Pepper owners.
#46
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Originally Posted by Elton in SoCal
My wife drives the Pepper and she does not drive it hard.
#47
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Originally Posted by MetalSolid
Is it possible to apply the gas & brake at the same time in that thing? If so, I suspect she's a left-foot braker, and not in the same way as a Schumacher or Röhrl...
Experiment: Cayenne in D (PSM on, full auto mode), left foot on brake, press gas with right foot.........
Extra Credit: Cayenne in Park, foot off brake, press accelerator to floor......huh, I guess the rev limiter does work at around 4000RPM.
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With all this talk, who HAS replaced their pads and rotors themselves? I could have sworn I heard that Mudman2 has?!?! Mike? I've done brakes on many vehicles. With the proper tools and a garage to work in it is not that hard! How difficult is it on this car? And if done at home how much $$ can be saved? Just curious....
#49
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You are correct Zin, I changed my pads a short while ago. I did buy the rotors but when I got the pads out the rotors were in good condition so I did not.
The job is very simple, 1 bolt, drift it out, replace the sensors, ease in the new one 1 piston at a time and your done. Time about 90 minutes beginning to end.
The rotors are held on with one bolt, it has a tamper proof head which will require a special socket. The calipers have 2 big bolts. Loren posted the torque settings on Renntech.
Pictures on my gallery.
The job is very simple, 1 bolt, drift it out, replace the sensors, ease in the new one 1 piston at a time and your done. Time about 90 minutes beginning to end.
The rotors are held on with one bolt, it has a tamper proof head which will require a special socket. The calipers have 2 big bolts. Loren posted the torque settings on Renntech.
Pictures on my gallery.
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Originally Posted by mudman2
You are correct Zin, I changed my pads a short while ago. I did buy the rotors but when I got the pads out the rotors were in good condition so I did not.
The job is very simple, 1 bolt, drift it out, replace the sensors, ease in the new one 1 piston at a time and your done. Time about 90 minutes beginning to end.
The rotors are held on with one bolt, it has a tamper proof head which will require a special socket. The calipers have 2 big bolts. Loren posted the torque settings on Renntech.
Pictures on my gallery.
![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
The job is very simple, 1 bolt, drift it out, replace the sensors, ease in the new one 1 piston at a time and your done. Time about 90 minutes beginning to end.
The rotors are held on with one bolt, it has a tamper proof head which will require a special socket. The calipers have 2 big bolts. Loren posted the torque settings on Renntech.
Pictures on my gallery.
![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
A few points of clarification if you don't mind. I checked out your pic's, great job. Let me go in order:
- Jack up car, remove wheel, etc
- Remove ONE large caliper bolt
- Remove sensor? Can you clarify this point? How?
- Remove old pads
- Reverse process
Also, I DON'T have to remove the calipers to replace the pads, correct?
Is it easy to compress the piston(s) to slide in the new pads?
Did you do fronts and rears?
Anything else?
Thanks a bunch!
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#51
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"Cayenne in Park, foot off brake, press accelerator to floor......huh, I guess the rev limiter does work at around 4000RPM. "
This is a fairly common figure... and this is an "EPA" issue. Regs now cover no load off throttle, so the easy solution is to prohibit a full range of throttle inputs at P/N.
FWIW, all 4 cars in the family fleet have the same cutoff (2 P, 1 VW, 1 Ford).
J
This is a fairly common figure... and this is an "EPA" issue. Regs now cover no load off throttle, so the easy solution is to prohibit a full range of throttle inputs at P/N.
FWIW, all 4 cars in the family fleet have the same cutoff (2 P, 1 VW, 1 Ford).
J
#52
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Jack up car, remove wheel, etc --Yes use axle stands (yuo cannot quite see them in my pics)
Remove ONE large caliper bolt ----- its about 13mm. This is the main bolt which goes front the back holding the pad retention spring in place.
Remove sensor? Can you clarify this point? How? ------The sensor cannot be removed without destroying it, it just comes out with the pad the wires snap.
Remove old pads----The pads slip out with a screw driver levering it up.
Reverse process
Also, I DON'T have to remove the calipers to replace the pads, correct? -- Yes
Is it easy to compress the piston(s) to slide in the new pads? Yes, I use a piece of hardwood, just do one at a time so the pad hold them in place. You will need pad grease.
Did you do fronts and rears? --- No the back were still more than 50%
Anything else? -- Not realy, very easy.
Remove ONE large caliper bolt ----- its about 13mm. This is the main bolt which goes front the back holding the pad retention spring in place.
Remove sensor? Can you clarify this point? How? ------The sensor cannot be removed without destroying it, it just comes out with the pad the wires snap.
Remove old pads----The pads slip out with a screw driver levering it up.
Reverse process
Also, I DON'T have to remove the calipers to replace the pads, correct? -- Yes
Is it easy to compress the piston(s) to slide in the new pads? Yes, I use a piece of hardwood, just do one at a time so the pad hold them in place. You will need pad grease.
Did you do fronts and rears? --- No the back were still more than 50%
Anything else? -- Not realy, very easy.