JFScheck

I was ready to purchase the Tekonsha Prodigy when I just read that one of the wires that the Prodigy needs to be connected to is the Cayenne's brake switch vice the Cayenne’s trailer harness that’s under the dash.

I will be hooking my plugs/wires as per "Mudmans2" directions as posted on the site (utilizing the Cayenne's built in harness) for use with my brake controller.

What brake controllers are people using that are hooked up in this manner and giving flawless performance, vice the Tekonsha Prodigy which I hear blinks lights when hooked up to the Cayenne's trailer harness and needs to be connected to the "Peppers" brake switch to remedy said situation?

Help, as I need to get this straightened out before my trailer shows up next week.

Again, I wish to buy the best brake controller that will work with the Cayenne's trailer wiring harness....

Thanks in advance!

skl

Follow the links in the other thread next to this one- I used the best analog from a local hitch place made by the same people who make the Prodigy. Can't remember the name but it works fine. Didn't get the Prodigy because of the all the problems mentioned. The VW plug and wires are cheap from vwparts.com and makes for a real clean installation.

ltc

I have a Towing Products 5100 (electronic trailer brake control for 2 and 4 brake systems); no particular reason. If you purchase one from a good trailer shop, you should have no problems. $125 installed (parts/labor) IIRC.
I have an identical unit installed in my bride's 2005 Excursion.

(again, as an electrical engineer, I sometimes chuckle when marketing folks get a hold of words like 'digital')

This was from a Pano TECH Q&A article (and from a PCA region as well):

Answer: Installing Trailer Brakes:
QTY: PARTS:
2 000979228
1 1J0972782
1 Brake Controller

Get the first two items from a Volkswagon Dealer; Porsche
does not carry the connectors or wires. You can get
the controller from your local trailer store or online from
ETRAILER.COM.

First, remove under tray panel under dash on driver side.
Find 20 torx in center of panel and remove it.

Drop panel down and look for a 4 prong square connector on left side of dash, hanging off of main harness. Might be wrapped with grey foam.

Install the ends of the wires 0009799228
in the 4 slots in the connector, part number 1J0972782.

CONNECTOR IN CAR: WIRE COLOR:

TERMINAL 1: BROWN
TERMINAL 2: RED Check fuse box right
F19, make sure it has a 30 AMP fuse in it.
TERMINAL 3: BLACK/ RED
TERMINAL 4: BLUE

WIRING TO CONTROLLER:

TERMINAL 1: GROUND
TERMINAL 2: B+ POWER ALL THE TIME
TERMINAL 3: STOP LIGHT
TERMINAL 4: TRAILER BRAKE

Your trailer company can hook your vehicle up to a tester after installation, just to make sure everything is working fine.

JFScheck

I have all the parts (thanks to Mudmans2 posts) in hand to connect a brake controller to the internal harness and the instructions from our previous threads.

The reason for my new thread here is to look for a brake controller (the best one out there) that can be wired up via the info located in our forum without any errors on the controller.

Looks like purchasing the best analog controller out there while staying away from any type of digital controller is the way to go.

Can anyone give me the difference between analog and digital controllers? What will I be losing by not using a digital controller?

ltc

John,
I believe you are making a mountain out of a molehill. Don't sweat it.

Don't get hung up on 'analog' vs 'digital'. Think about what an electronic brake controller does:
1. You step on your vehicle's brake pedal
2. After TBD delay (adjustable on brake controller), the brake controller begins to send power to the trailer's electric brakes
3. The amount of power send to the trailer's brakes is determined by the brake controller (adjustable in one fashion or another). Empty trailer needs less brake force than fully loaded trailer.
4. You begin to slow down.
5. Take your foot off the vehicle's brake pedal and trailer brakes are released.
6. Repeat process.

I could design a brake controller with 100% analog electronics (vacuum tubes if you wish) or with a microprocessor.......hell, I'll even design a strapdown inertial navigation package for it if you like; the end result is you step on the brake, there's a delay, and then power is set to the brakes until you take your foot off the vehicle's brake pedal.

Almost all of today's brake controllers can be mounted in almost any orientation (no leveling required); some have cool LED displays, some don't. (Mine has a simple red LED which comes on when the brakes activate, a simple slide to set braking power/force, and a pushbutton switch on the side to activate the trailer brakes without using the vehicle brake pedal (to help dampen out 'tail wagging' the trailer.....you'll figure this out quickly, trust me).

Try and local a good trailer company and they can show you the different models. Or check out some online retailers for brake controllers, etc.

Happy Towing.

ltc

Just in case you're still curious:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq/brakecontrol.asp

and some examples:
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=tda

(BTW, you will find that the same brake controller is sold under different names/brands. For example, my Towing Products 5100 is the one at the top, just sold under DrawTite's private label.)

Or for even MORE choices:
http://www.brakecontroller.com/

Or you can search around truck forums:
http://www.trucktrend.com/features/t...ak/index2.html

ltc

And one more thing:

ANY brake controller that advertises something like:
"Diagnostics system continually checks for shorts and trailer connection"....like the Valley Odyssey or the Tekonsha Prodigy,

is going to **** off the Cayenne's factory tow control unit (mounted in the cargo area, passenger side, near the audio amplifier, CDChanger, etc).

Trust me.

mudman2

Mine (prodigy) works fine, up and down the mountains, 14ft, alu box 4 wheel trailer with electric brakes.

JFScheck

Lewis, thanks for the info!

ltc

No problem.
Once you get a brake controller/trailer, you will quickly get a feel for how much braking is being done by the Cayenne and by the trailer brakes (set by controller) and how to make appropriate changes.

Again, if there is a good trailer shop within driving distance, they should be able to assist as well.

One more thing, it looks like you have air suspension (based on your sig). Make sure you are at 'normal' height when determining what offset towing adapter lines up best with your trailer. Every now and then I forget to go from 'low' to 'normal' when hooking up, get on the road and notice the trailer nose is low! No problem, as you can adjust ride height with trailer connected, as long as tongue weight is less than 600#.

BTW, what kind of trailer are you considering?

JFScheck

I purchased a Haulmark "lowhauler" with dual axels, (8x14) completed interior, chrome rims, LED lights, yada, yada yada to haul my CVO Electra Glide (and accompanying friends motorcycles) for trips to Daytona, Sturgis, when I head up to Summit Point, etc...

Kinda wished my Boxster would fit into it but...

So, with the two bikes and the trailer and various other “junk” I'm looking around 5,500 lbs total weight. I'm hoping the Cayenne should have no problems. I will make sure I keep the air suspension at "normal" settings. Hoping that the "Porsche" trailer hitch I purchased will be at the correct height.

Now I just need to "splice" the wires from the brake controller module (need to order that still) into the "VW/Audi" manufactured wires, plug those wires into the "VW/Audi" plug, and then plug the new fangled harness into the Cayenne's trailer harness under the dash.

Currently in Toronto on business, but hopefully this weekend I can knock it all out!

ltc

Hmmn, LED lights. Please let us know if you have any problems with "Check Trailer Lights" warning on the dash and non functional secondary directional indicators, green <1> on speedo display when you plug in the trailer.

My enclosed aluminum trailer/Cup car comes in around 5200# or so. Just be aware of bike positioning up front with respect to tongue weight. If you think this may be an issue, you can consider buying one of these:
http://www.sherline.com/lm.htm
(0-1000# is appropriate for Cayenne's tongue weight rating)
And this is a good read:
http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm

You will likely find that 6th gear is useless, and that driving in 'Manual' mode works the best. Just remember that in 'Manual', there is NO kickdown, floor the gas in 5th and NOTHING happens (not a lot of torque in this engine compared to a normal tow (diesel) vehicle).

The Porsche Tequipment trailer hitch is a 2" ball. It sounds like your trailer will be a 2"; mine was 2 5/16 so I didn't use the Porsche one. There is nothing special about the Porsche adapter, other than it is solid. You can buy a different offset adapter as required, as long as it is solid (your trailer company can help with this.)

Best of luck.

mudman2

I agree with Lewis drive in manual only and only use 6 on the flat with no headwind lest you strain the transmission.

I use a 2 5/16 ball with a non Porsche offset carrier to get the height closer (pepboys) I use the Porsche one for the other trailer I use, its built to tow ships !!!

I did find that the air suspension seems to know the right height and adjusts, I also may be dreaming this as know one else has ever mentioned it.

JFScheck

Knowing the possible "LED" issues, I can't wait to see what happens... I'll have the tow guys check everything out before I drive off. I'm sure they would love to sell me something else...