Cam Angles Actual vs Specified
#1
Cam Angles Actual vs Specified
In trying to diagnose a drivability/rough running issue I am having on my 2005 CTT with 104,000 miles, was running great till a few weeks ago, coincidental after an oil change to Redline 0W40. read more here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...ne-0w40-2.html
Today I looked at cam data using my Foxwell scanner. I decided to look at cam data cause its running like I have a high lift cam on a muscle car, just doesnt sound nor run smooth, and I am having fault counts high on some cylinders with oil fouling on several plugs. Not sure how the fouling is related to cam timing, but I have had high consumption since 43,000 miles till now at 100,000, around 1qt per 1000 miles. But perhaps if she isnt running right and burning the fuel / air mixure right, oil is lingering and not getting burned as usual, or if the cams are off then its creating unusually high pressure or vacuum, creating more consumption (already check AOS and all the emission lines with a smoke test, all good).
Also, it seems to me the boost is building quicker than normal, but Im also hyper sensitive right now, lol. Searching the internet pointed to cam timing being off and resulting in potential for quicker boost response.
Plug cats are another possible explanation for quicker spooling, which could be possible after years of decent oil consumption (did the high ZDDP redline clog it finally)?
Anyway, here is my question, should the actual vs specified be this far off? 1st pic is while cruising around 2000 or so rpm (if I remember right), the second picture is at idle.
Why the big difference?
What should the specified and actual values be for cam timing? I would assume the DME is specifying a value and and actual should be close to matching it, is that correct?
If this data is highlighting an issue, what is it, the VVT solenoids (both bad at the same time, did the Ow40 redline clean too well and circulate some crud into them both), or is the crank sensor bad throwing off both? I did have a 1314 DME code, which I have seen some say a crank sensor fixed. I had that code early on when the drivability started but cleared it and it hasnt come back. Dare I say is it related to timing chain wear/age?
All the while, no check engine light or codes, it starts without issue, and only smokes on start up for a second or 2 after warm (but it has done this intermittently over the years). See my other thread linked above, all the things I have tried already like coils, plugs, vac leaks, etc.). Its just running rough, surges under boost, feels like its fighting itself, not smooth, etc.
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...ne-0w40-2.html
Today I looked at cam data using my Foxwell scanner. I decided to look at cam data cause its running like I have a high lift cam on a muscle car, just doesnt sound nor run smooth, and I am having fault counts high on some cylinders with oil fouling on several plugs. Not sure how the fouling is related to cam timing, but I have had high consumption since 43,000 miles till now at 100,000, around 1qt per 1000 miles. But perhaps if she isnt running right and burning the fuel / air mixure right, oil is lingering and not getting burned as usual, or if the cams are off then its creating unusually high pressure or vacuum, creating more consumption (already check AOS and all the emission lines with a smoke test, all good).
Also, it seems to me the boost is building quicker than normal, but Im also hyper sensitive right now, lol. Searching the internet pointed to cam timing being off and resulting in potential for quicker boost response.
Plug cats are another possible explanation for quicker spooling, which could be possible after years of decent oil consumption (did the high ZDDP redline clog it finally)?
Anyway, here is my question, should the actual vs specified be this far off? 1st pic is while cruising around 2000 or so rpm (if I remember right), the second picture is at idle.
Why the big difference?
What should the specified and actual values be for cam timing? I would assume the DME is specifying a value and and actual should be close to matching it, is that correct?
If this data is highlighting an issue, what is it, the VVT solenoids (both bad at the same time, did the Ow40 redline clean too well and circulate some crud into them both), or is the crank sensor bad throwing off both? I did have a 1314 DME code, which I have seen some say a crank sensor fixed. I had that code early on when the drivability started but cleared it and it hasnt come back. Dare I say is it related to timing chain wear/age?
All the while, no check engine light or codes, it starts without issue, and only smokes on start up for a second or 2 after warm (but it has done this intermittently over the years). See my other thread linked above, all the things I have tried already like coils, plugs, vac leaks, etc.). Its just running rough, surges under boost, feels like its fighting itself, not smooth, etc.
Last edited by Corvetteboy6988; 08-13-2024 at 01:13 PM.