ATF fluid change -- cause valve body failure?
#1
ATF fluid change -- cause valve body failure?
After changing my ATF, I idled the car for ~5 ish minutes, got 1/4 mile down the road, and it seemed to bind up and slow down, then BAM! [big BAM! sound] ... now I get whining and hard shifting (mainly when cold, whining on acceleration).
So fast forward almost 9 months, my GF's BMW needs ATF change, and in there people recommend either doing it about 50-60k miles, or never (because when you do the change, you can stir up grit and stuff which can harm the thing)....so here I am, thinking this must be what happened in my CTT, and I come across threads of valve body failure in these early pigs
... now Im afraid my fluid and filter change CAUSED valve body failure? Has this happened to anyone else?
Ive been driving it about 10k miles since...seems with weather getting a lot colder the problem is getting worse while warming up. Im planing to tow a 6k lb trailer 1000 miles in the next month or so, and want to make sure Im good to go here...
So im wondering...
a) do nothing
b) Change ATF fluid/filter
c) Remove and clean valve body, change fluid/filter
d) Rebuild with Transgo Kit
e) im not going to spend $700 on a new valve body, unless it really makes sense but from what Ive seen, it doesnt really.
So fast forward almost 9 months, my GF's BMW needs ATF change, and in there people recommend either doing it about 50-60k miles, or never (because when you do the change, you can stir up grit and stuff which can harm the thing)....so here I am, thinking this must be what happened in my CTT, and I come across threads of valve body failure in these early pigs
... now Im afraid my fluid and filter change CAUSED valve body failure? Has this happened to anyone else?
Ive been driving it about 10k miles since...seems with weather getting a lot colder the problem is getting worse while warming up. Im planing to tow a 6k lb trailer 1000 miles in the next month or so, and want to make sure Im good to go here...
So im wondering...
a) do nothing
b) Change ATF fluid/filter
c) Remove and clean valve body, change fluid/filter
d) Rebuild with Transgo Kit
e) im not going to spend $700 on a new valve body, unless it really makes sense but from what Ive seen, it doesnt really.
#3
That doesn't really happen on this transmission. I would only be worried about that if a shop tried to do a power flush. I would NOT tow 6k lbs trailer 1000 miles if my transmission was not shifting properly... unless you just like having transmissions problems.
Did you take out the filter and clean it too?
Did you use a new o-ring?
What fluid did you use?
Are you 100% sure you got the level correct?
Time for a redo.
Did you take out the filter and clean it too?
Did you use a new o-ring?
What fluid did you use?
Are you 100% sure you got the level correct?
Time for a redo.
#4
Measuring fluid level at the correct temperature is of the upmost importance. I did my first change at 68k miles and the transmission now shifts better than ever. After the fluid and filter change I don't even feel the shifts anymore, that's how smooth it is. Good luck!
PS: Don't be afraid to ask us any questions, most of us are happy to help!
PS: Don't be afraid to ask us any questions, most of us are happy to help!
#5
Awesome, thank you guys. I'll check fluid level...just got the iCarScan and am excited to start using it
Im positive I put oring in there, because I forgot it at first and had to drop the pan again and put it on luckily, I didnt fill yet.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Im positive I put oring in there, because I forgot it at first and had to drop the pan again and put it on luckily, I didnt fill yet.
Happy Thanksgiving!
#6
How many miles do you have on the vehicle?
Several people have had the o-rings get pinched and not seal properly when putting the filter back in.
Also, if you are thinking about refreshing the valve body while you have the pan off again, I have a spare Transgo kit that I do not need for a while if you are trying to save some money. Just PM if you are interested. Regardless, I would get it working properly before a lengthy, heavy tow - especially if you are crossing mountains. That is a lot of strain to put on the components if your solenoids are not operating smoothly.
Several people have had the o-rings get pinched and not seal properly when putting the filter back in.
Also, if you are thinking about refreshing the valve body while you have the pan off again, I have a spare Transgo kit that I do not need for a while if you are trying to save some money. Just PM if you are interested. Regardless, I would get it working properly before a lengthy, heavy tow - especially if you are crossing mountains. That is a lot of strain to put on the components if your solenoids are not operating smoothly.
#7
Did you use a procedure similar to this one? http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...ansmission.pdf
I left mine in reverse for the remainder of the fill. That seemed to be the way to get the most fluid in there before overflowing.
I left mine in reverse for the remainder of the fill. That seemed to be the way to get the most fluid in there before overflowing.
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#8
Hey guys, sorry for the delay, was out of town for the holiday
Seemingly, the car performs better/smoother shifting when loaded with 5 people...
Anyways, theres 117k on 04 CTT
I bought a 3qt pressure brake fluid filler on ECS black friday that i'll add a on/off valve too so I can use it to fill ATF (have to do GF's BMW anyways)...might make it worthwhile just to drop the pan and check the seal since itll be so easy to fill (hopefully). Still a PITA though...
I had to run down to auto store because at one point had someone going from P to D to R every few seconds (car was also in air) and all of a sudden it started dumping fluid all over (engine still on). Was a nice warm shower...not expected. Also, I followed the Pelican Parts DIY (note: I remember it not being very good, ecs looks much better).
Seemingly, the car performs better/smoother shifting when loaded with 5 people...
Anyways, theres 117k on 04 CTT
I bought a 3qt pressure brake fluid filler on ECS black friday that i'll add a on/off valve too so I can use it to fill ATF (have to do GF's BMW anyways)...might make it worthwhile just to drop the pan and check the seal since itll be so easy to fill (hopefully). Still a PITA though...
I had to run down to auto store because at one point had someone going from P to D to R every few seconds (car was also in air) and all of a sudden it started dumping fluid all over (engine still on). Was a nice warm shower...not expected. Also, I followed the Pelican Parts DIY (note: I remember it not being very good, ecs looks much better).
#9
From my experience, you want to leave it in Reverse to finish the fill. When I went from Reverse back to Drive while filling, fluid overflowed. Then I went back into Reverse and left it there and I was able to add a lot more before overflowing again.