Wisconsin Joe

^This.

I live in Wisconsin, and the salt & crud on winter roads tends to make things messy.

I learned a long time ago to smear just a little anti-seize on the mating surfaces of the wheel & brake rotor. Otherwise there's a decent chance of needing to take a sledgehammer to the tire to get it off (beat on the tire, not the rim).
Basically, put a dab on and then wipe it off with a finger. What stays behind is enough.

I also put a small amount on the threads of the wheel bolts and reduce the torque accordingly. Again, put a dab on the threads at the end of the bolt and wipe most of it off. Not on the bolt seats.

981S2013

• nuts and bolts are treated differently
• for bolts, apply the antiseize to the threads and between the back of the bolt head and the collar (not to the underside of the collar - don’t want the antiseize to make contact with the rim)
• Copper-based is recommended as the best, although the aluminum-based is what Porsche recommended

With this in mind, I went searching for the Optimoly and had a bear of a time finding it. So, I found Liquimoly brand C5-A on Amazon. Copper based. If anyone has any thought on this material, please share it. Otherwise, a little dab will do ya, and I’ll use this when I re-assemble....

Jd_gts

At the very least, if you are considering lubricating your lugs, watch the following video first.

The key thing to focus on is Yield Stress!

TL;DR:
Lubricating wheel studs before torquing them down could result in as much as a 30% increase in yield stress just using the factory torque spec. A lubricated lug torqued to 100 ft/lbs may end up well over 100% yield stress of the wheel studs and therefore, they are permanently deformed (and weakened).

981S2013

I think this was well covered in this thread and in the other threads referenced.
I see.
Porsche recommends 118 lb.ft. torque spec for bolts, but here others have commented that they reduce to 100 lb.ft. when using anti seize.

Further, there is a difference between coating studs that use lug NUTS and lug BOLTS.
Porsche did not recommend using anti seize on older cars with studs and nuts. Here we are talking about Lug BOLTS and anti-seize.

Jd_gts

What is the difference?

Does Porsche recommend using anti seize on lug bolts?

edit* (truly curious, not being adversarial - I haven't researched what Porsche recommends for lug bolts, specifically). I can also read through the other threads if we want to close this one since this topic has apparently been covered numerous times.

Brainz

I agree with your description and the theory. But hub-centric only affects the concentricity of the wheels and rotors on the hub. The "clocking" of the wheel to the hubs is far less precisely determined -- it's mostly done by the ball-seats on the lug bolts (not the shafts of the bolts which are smaller than the holes) -- and once the bolts are torqued, you don't care if the bolts are perfectly centered in the holes, but rather that there's enough clamping force that the hub, rotor, and wheel rotate as one under the forces applied. Apparently I'd put enough antiseize on the mating faces that the torque from braking and the torque from accelerating from a stop was allowing the wheel to slip clockwise/counterclockwise on the hub just enough to make a clunk. I can't imagine that'd be good for the life of the lug nuts as they must have been deflecting a bit. I wiped it off and retorqued the bolts and it was fine. And before someone suggest that it was the retorquing that solved my issue, I actually tried that first and torque alone (at factory settings) didn't fix it...

Brainz

Agreed. It doesn't take very much at all.