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Wiring is there and uncut (the other plug to the controller box is in the car unplugged and taped up in foam), I see the mounting bolts taped up on the side. Foam you may be able to modify your old one, not sure - mine came with the foam.
Can't tell from the pics if the plug is there or it it's just the block-off plate that came from the factory. If latter, you'll need the plug that I referenced in my previous post.
I'm sure I could've gotten mine locally for less than $500 it cost me total. But I was overjoyed at $500 compared to the dealer installed cost of $1800 (with a discount), so I just jumped on it.
After it's all installed you will need the dealer to do the coding and once that's done you should be all set.
But do you? When I did my install, the used module was already coded and was recognized by Durametric with no codes. The module did not require any VIN change like some others do. So is there anything for the dealer to do?
But do you? When I did my install, the used module was already coded and was recognized by Durametric with no codes. The module did not require any VIN change like some others do. So is there anything for the dealer to do?
The coding is apparently so the rest of the modules know the hitch has been installed.
So, did you have to take it to the dealer for programming, or did the car recognize everything correctly with just the used, programmed tow module installed?
So, did you have to take it to the dealer for programming, or did the car recognize everything correctly with just the used, programmed tow module installed?
Took to the dealer for coding. Not sure if it would have recognised everything as I didn't hook up to the trailer before coding.
Just recently did this on a 08 GTS. Went with factory hitch - it looks much beefier, retains factory tow hooks, has all the holes for the factory harness. The best I've been able to find out is that 955/957 hitches are same but the bolts changed from M14 to M12 at some point in time. Regardless, given that I had the choice, I got a hitch off 09 model and had no issues.
Bought everything used off eBay. Hitch w/ bolts (need longer ones for OEM hitch), harness, foam was $400 shipped to my door, control module was another $50-60. Factory procedure tells you to put in some fuses - all the fuses were already in the car when time came to it. Everything plugged in, though removing the rear seats and rear side panel was a pain. The tow module got recognized immediately by the Durametric, able to run actuation tests on the trailer lights without any programming. The only question I do not know is whether all the other modules will recognize a towing mode (parking sensors, tranny shift points, etc) without a trip to the dealer, but I have not yet towed anything to find out.
You need to cut the bumper. Any sharp razor will do, or fine saw. I elected to cut a much smaller hole around the hitch rather than what the manual recommends, and am much happier with it. Basically I did NOT cut the vertical piece immediately to the left of the hitch under the hitch connector, only cut the horizontal plane around the hitch connector, and also left a piece behind to leave some structural rigidity in the bumper.. Looks much better IMO.
Trailer connector is DORMAN 924308 if you need that. $15 vs $80 at the dealer...
Hope this helps.
What are these measurements whenever you get a chance? Your install is the cleanest I've soon so far, even down to the detail of just trimming the left horizontal piece.
3-5/8 hitch to cut outline on the top (though this one was either already factory cut, or there was an outline of where the factory cut would've been, don't remember). Bottom hole is 5" wide.
EDIT: Oh, the depth - I did cut it about 1" deep, but if I were doing it again I would cut less. See the pictures installed. I cut it deeper to ease installation, but if I remember right, you could just push the bumper down during installation to clear the safety chain hooks. This will give the bottom part of the bumper more strength.
3-5/8 hitch to cut outline on the top (though this one was either already factory cut, or there was an outline of where the factory cut would've been, don't remember). Bottom hole is 5" wide.
EDIT: Oh, the depth - I did cut it about 1" deep, but if I were doing it again I would cut less. See the pictures installed. I cut it deeper to ease installation, but if I remember right, you could just push the bumper down during installation to clear the safety chain hooks. This will give the bottom part of the bumper more strength.
Thanks so much! That's exactly what I was looking for.
What are these measurements whenever you get a chance? Your install is the cleanest I've soon so far, even down to the detail of just trimming the left horizontal piece.
TIA
The hole to the upper right does not need to be cut.
The lower "V" at the "This lil cut" does not need to be cut out either. The 2-3" V will slide in behind the factory hitch.
The bumper cover has a template on the back for cutting. Use it. (I overcut as well on the right side, to do it again it would be tighter) Use an oscillating tool as it works through plastic like butter.
The hole to the upper right does not need to be cut.
The lower "V" at the "This lil cut" does not need to be cut out either. The 2-3" V will slide in behind the factory hitch.
The bumper cover has a template on the back for cutting. Use it. (I overcut as well on the right side, to do it again it would be tighter) Use an oscillating tool as it works through plastic like butter.
The big hole came precut from the factory it seems. Thanks for the tip.
06-06-2018, 10:17 PM
