I think most get tired of getting ripped off at the stealership, and opt to just cross their fingers and hope for no major problems. They hold on to the car for a year or two or three until there are enough annoyances (and a cacophony of warnings when they start the car up) that they don't want to address and then unload it or pay a mechanic to make most of them go away so they can unload it.

 

That's probably right. I've been to the dealer for parts probably 6 times in 5wks of ownership so far, but I haven't actually spent very much on anything yet. In fact, since I've figured out the dealer's cappuccino machine, it's probably a wash vs. going to Starbucks (made myself a triple yesterday). Biggest expense thus far, battery for $150. Second biggest, rear hatch and window struts plus the strut for the parking brake. You will never convince me that Porsche decided to use a strut instead of a spring for the parking brake for any reason other than "so it will break every few years". Heavier, more expensive, capable of failing. Truly an idiotic design choice.

cheers,
c

 

I only been here with you all for a month and have been living on searching and reading the DIYs. I've tried to learn more about the Cayenne before I start asking questions. It's had the believe that someone would buy one these vehicles new and keep it for more than 3 to 5 years. It's also hard to believe that something so expensive would have so many design faults.

 

When you hang out in the forums, you hear about ALL of the problems. It gives you a skewed sample. People that don't run into issues don't go on forums. My 968 has been a dependable daily driver for 15 years and counting, still original clutch, still original alternator (3rd voltage reg), still original radiator, A/C is ice cold and has never been serviced or even recharged since new (24 YEARS and counting!!!) etc. I'm expecting the Cayenne to turn out the same. Now, on the other hand, if I had taken it straight to the dealer after buying it. I would be at $650 for battery (I spent $150), probably $600+ for the hatch, glass, and brake struts (I spent $100), who knows how much for the oil change, etc. If you enjoy doing it, then it's a hobby that saves money rather than costing money. Some people like golf. My 968 has NEVER left me stranded, and neither did my 944 before that, sold that one at about 175k, 968 is at about 160k, cayenne is at 140k. Life is good.

cheers,
c

 

PartsGuyGT,
is that 7mmID hose suitable to replace most of the cayenne's lines (ie: does it mate with the check valves, etc.), or am I going to need a variety of sizes? I'm thinking that if that one size covers most of it, I can just get 15 or 20 feet of it and replace the factory lines as they fail, or as other repairs give me access.

cheers,
c

 

I believe there’s a combination of 7mm, 5mm and 2.5mm ID vacuum lines. I’ll check in the morning.

Best

Julian

 

Awesome. Thank you for your help.

For those following along at home, here is the link to order the Tee that Julian found:
https://www.belmetric.com/vacuum-con...or-p-9611.html

I found this on Alibaba which *might* be the same thing for only $0.66.
https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/...Id=32821275375

I took a chance and ordered (3) for $3.36 delivered. I'll report back on whether it works or not. Saving $171 on the Porsche part affords a lot of wiggle room to experiment with alternatives.

cheers,
c

 

Update

7mm, 5mm, 3.5mm

 

I have got this part new also. Old one broke. But factory it is not tighten with these... Should I tight these three hoses with these clamps?

 

Should be fine with those clamps. Easier access. Just make sure you get good ones. Cheap ones won't tighten enough.

 

I don't have any of the clamps now... You think it may leak around T part without clamps? There is small amount of oil vapor though... Just checked.

 

The original plastic tees ar 8mm & 10mm and they press-fit air-tight.

The metal replacements (both Chinese & Belmetric) are 7mm&9mm which they cheekily refer to as 7/8mm and 9/10mm. So they're a little too small and require hose clamps for a leak-free fit.

cheers,
c

 

Great find. I have the same problem and need to replace the T-Connector. Did you have to remove the exhaust manifold to get in there? Did you test the breather hoses to see if there are any leaks? Kinda hard to see if there is one, because of the corrugated tubing.

 

No, you don't need to remove exhaust manifold. The tee is at the rear top center of the engine, no where near the manifolds. Did not test for leaks, this is really just sucking blowby from valve covers to be burned.

cheers,
c

 

Just found this broke on my CTT. I bodged something for now to get it connected until I sort something more permanent out. I may try creating a 3D printed piece out of ABS or Nylon to replace it.
Edit: The Belmetric part is: https://belmetric.com/rubber-hose-re...u=VC9-10/7-8TM and now costs $37 USD

For EU customers only:
Metzger Technick shop has the T-Connector for a more reasonable 2 euros: https://www.metzger-technik-shop.de/...zle-LW10-/-LW8
And Finjetor.com has a metal version for $6 USD: https://www.finjector.com/eng/mks_c0...10_mm-p-268680