Thanks for that detailed response Mac. Really appreciated!

I was kind of surprised the tech was so down on M1 as I've put over 200K mi on both a Lex LS400 and a Sienna Mini Van without any motor probs. My Mustang buddy does endurance racing with a 65 Boss and a 2016 with the fancy Ford Factory 585 HP motor. Uses Driven in the 65 because it needs the additives. The new car gets M1.

If an oil press gauge isn't of much value then I'll skip it as I've got other stuff to fool with. Funny they went to oil temp in the new models.

<ot warning>
do you use the old school cartridge filter or a spin on with the LN adapter.

I really like my Box and want to try to get a another 70K+ on it. 150K doesn't seem unreasonable at 10K/yr.

 

My auto tech buddies told me the oil pressure gage could come in handy by letting me know when it was time to change the oil. A noted change in hot idle oil pressure -- either up some or down some -- was a sign the oil was due to be changed. After all these years I seem to recall this being true but I can't recall the details now. But I was not after super long oil life but super long engine life and I changed the oil probably every 3K miles which was the auto maker's recommendation back then. And this was before synthetic oil was common.

I do recall too the needle was quite active. There was no dampening of the gage needle and it appears the needle reacted to every oil pump gear tooth as it spun by the oil pump outlet port.

Anyhow, the Turbo oil pressure doesn't change over time as the oil goes from fresh to with 5K miles (and once when I was so distracted with family matters 10K miles). For "knowing" when to change the oil in the Turbo (and the Boxster) I just go by the odometer. Every 5K miles. The Turbo has around 157.5K miles so in another 2.5K miles I'll have the oil changed. The Boxster is less than 1K miles away from its 315K mile oil change.

I have stayed with the factory filter. The factory filter insert has plenty of surface area and given the miles both engines have covered has managed to keep the oil clean to the point both engines are fine.

There is some advocacy for the aftermarket filter because of a concern with the factory filter having a pressure bypass that upon cold start allows unfiltered oil to flow into the engine.

I didn't see any evidence of this when I changed the oil in my Boxster. (Wtih other car engines there is a ball check valve in the block that if the oil filter becomes too clogged the ball check valve can open and let excessive pressure into the engine.)

My printed and digitial references -- diagrams of the engine oiling circuit -- didn't show any bypass at the filter just one in the pump. Also, I spoke with the Porsche techs and they told me the pressure relief valve was in the oil pump proper. Thus all oil that flows to the engine is filtered oil.

Also I noted when I changed the oil in my new 2008 Cayman S with just 750 miles on it the oil filter housing oil was "full" of fine aluminum metal particles -- very fine particles. I have to think had there been any bypass of the filter upon cold start this oil would have circulated through the engine and the debris would have ended up "trapped" in the lifters.

 

So Marc you don't believe this quote from someone who went to the trouble of developing a product and advertising it this way "The LN Engineering Spin-On Oil filter adapter also helps improve the longevity of your engine by providing full flow filtration by deleting the bypass, which means 100% of the oil gets filtered and whatever goes to the filter stays in the filter. This limits collateral damage from foreign object debris that would otherwise re-contaminate the engine when using the factory filter arrangement."

Is the bypass in the filter itself?

 

That was the crux of my question: I've changed oil a few times don't see any bypass in the stock filter. It's just a cartridge insert.

Maybe LN will tell us where they think the bypass occurs.

And Mac, thanks for the note about the crap in the filter in your Cayman. Maybe it doesn't have enough miles for its age and needs the IMS fix from LN?

 

Deleted.

 

The next Cayman oil change at around 1500 miles -- 750 miles after the 1st change -- showed a remarkable drop in the amount of trash in the filter housing oil. There was just a hint of fine aluminum "dust" in the oil but it was so faint it wouldn't photograph. Then at the end of break in I had the car in at the dealer for a 2000 mile oil/filter service before heading out on a long road trip. We didn't bother to capture the oil from the housing. The filter element looked just fine.

Unfortunately I never got a chance to find out how the Cayman engine would have fared for shortly after the service on a Friday night on the way to dropping a co-worker off at the local BART (commuter train) station, the Cayman was T-boned and destroyed. A driver on her cell phone missed her turn and tried to make it but lost control and slid across several lanes of traffic and right into the driver side a-pillar area of my car as I was stopped to making a right hand turn. This just about 4 weeks and 2200 miles after I bought it.

 

I'm so sorry to hear about your accident Mac. What a shame.

 

Wow, this thread has a lot of good information on it. But the topic is moved from Accusumps to oil pressure to oil brands.

Back to accusump, I finished the install of the accusump on my '01 986 S. Installed it in the tunnel, it fits well and seems to be the most logical location. Paying this forward in hopes it helps the next person.

Here is a video of the results on the track with track tires. I run my oil level about half way between low and full, with this set up I get an accusump dump on almost every corner and even under heavy breaking. Based on the video there are even a few longer corners where the accusump runs dry. Running Mobil 1 0W-40, BTW. I also run into very low oil pressure at idle post track sessions, i.e 5-7 PSI at idle and 250 F oil temp. But it is normal pressure under every day driving conditions.

Conclusion: If you're tracking a 986 or 996, strongly consider an Accusump or deeper oil pan, you'll need it.

Video Link -

 

I have the exact same issue, did u figure this out?