cmcchesney

I just bought a 2010 base with 31,000 miles on it yesterday. When i went to start it this morning the display flashed and clicked but the car didn't turn over, i'm hoping it's just a weak battery. I have it hooked up to my battery tender (it's all i have).

I bought it 400 miles from home, so even thought i've had it less than 24 hours, there's no going back.

What are some things in need to know about this car?? Did i do something wrong!!

Thanks, Chris

zedcat

Probably just dead battery. Do you know if it's the original or previously replaced? In my experience the batteries seem to die quickly- from seemingly ok to dead overnight. I think it's due to all the electronic systems these days. You may need to jump it - if it's gone the tender may not be enough. The 2010 is 987.2 and these seem to overall be very reliable. Just get it running and get a new battery and you should be fine.

cmcchesney

Thanks, Zedcat. There was no history available when i purchased the car. i know batteries can go bad quick. I will let the tender work for a couple of hours and see what happens. Hopefully that will be enough to get her started.

cmcchesney

Well i was able to get a jump and went and got a new battery. We noticed when took the old battery out the the sides were bulging pretty good. Hopefully this was just the problem, a crappy battery.

We shall see what happens tomorrow morning....

Macster

As zedcat offered the battery is probably the problem. And I read in your latest post you have replaced the battery. And it reads like just in time. A bulging battery is not a battery I want to leave in my car.

As for other things you need to know...

If you have no papers/records, no history of the car's prior servicing you probably should consider all services are due.

I'd start with an oil/filter service. At the same time you can either just replace the engine air intake filter and the cabin air filter or at least check this and if they don't look too bad make a note to replace them in a year or two. The cabin air filter can develop an odor though even if it flows air ok.

I do not know if your MY car has a serviceable fuel filter. My 2002 doesn't -- it is part of the in-tank fuel pump (housing). Check with your owners manual or a local dealer. If there is a serviceable filter you probably want to have this replaced.

At the same time I'd advise you to have the brake (and clutch if a manual) fluid flushed and bled. This is due every 2 years.

Check the level of other vital fluids: coolant, brake/clutch (if a manual), power steering.

Top up any that are low and keep an eye on the levels in case there's a leak. While I assume you checked the car out before you bought it and found no leaks the car may not stay leak free and you have to be aware of this.

You can do a coolant drain/refill with fresh coolant later and at the same time have the transmission fluid changed.

The car's vital fluids are all fresh and you can then keep up on these as they become due after so many miles or time.

Be sure the body water drains are free of any trash. There are body water drains in the front just ahead of the windshield on either side of the battery box. Open the front trunk lid and then you will have to remove the battery cover and the cover on either side.

Treat the drains/basins with gentleness. You do not want to break one or this can allow water to drain out of the basin and into the car instead of running all the way down to the end of the drain pipe.

There is a water drain on either side of the top, under the clam shell arm. You have to put the top in the service position to gain access to these.

Be sure the radiator ducts are clear of trash. These cars with the radiator fans running suck up trash/dirt like a hoover vacuum cleaner. This trash can lead to an early failure of the condenser or radiator due to corrosion.

To really clean out the ducts you may have to remove the bumper cover. In some cases the condenser is unbolted and swung out of the way a bit to gain access to the trash that collects between the condenser and the radiator. Be very gentle with the condensers.

Be sure the windshield washer tank is filled with appropriate fluid that prevents deposits from forming in the washer nozzles.

If tire wear is uneven -- particularly the rear tires show uneven wear with the inside edges wearing out before the outer edges -- this is a sign of incorrect wheel alignment. You should have this addressed so wear will be even. With some reasonable restraint you should get 20K+ miles out of the rears and double that from the fronts.

Give the engine a bit of warmup idling -- I wait until the secondary air injection pump shuts off and the elevated cold idle speed drops to near hot idle speed -- and then drive the car gently keeping revs down below 4K IIRC until the engine and its big load of oil and coolant is up to full operating temperature.

Buy top tier gasoline -- Chevron on a regular basis helps keep the engine from of engine deposits -- and buy from a busy station to ensure the gasoline is fresh. Of course run the proper octane grade -- 93 -- or the highest grade you can find. We in CA have only 91 available, but it seems to be ok. Still I'd run 93 if was available.

Keep the car clean, and avoid parking under trees to avoid tree sap getting on the paint/top. Wash -- rinse with regular water -- any bird mess off the top or painted surfaces as soon as you can. This stuff can damage the rubber underneath the top canvas or the clear coat on the paint.

Enjoy your new car!

extanker

dude this must be your first car.....take it to a dealer and let them do whatever [welcome to po] then find a shop that knows how to work on them. poke and hope with parts is not a strategy