Considering used Boxster ...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Considering used Boxster ...
Hi there, newbie here. Call it mid-life crisis, but I am seriously looking at an used Porsche.
A friend of mine had an 2007 Cayman S, and now owns a 2014 Cayman S (PDK, PASM, etc.). Co-worker has older Cayman S, and another one has a 2011 911 (PDK, PASM, etc.). So I got them trying to "help me out", sort of speak
Sports car wise, I have owned a Camaro Z28, Miata, and 2002 M3 (SMG). I then had kids, and as a result how drive two family sedans (Acura TL & Infiniti G37). The Acura is almost paid, so I am planing on using that monthly budget towards the Porsche. My current budget is in the $15K range (I know, not a lot!), maybe close to upper teens to $20K).
I live here in the Dallas area, so I started to look for local cars so that I can try them first hand. My friends all said to go for the "S" model, but there are fewer of those, so today I test drove (all of them manual - not considering an auto!):
- 2006 Cayman S (19K miles, immaculate, with only 19.5K miles!)
- 2007 Boxster (base) 55K miles
- 2008 Boxster (base) 60K miles
Feedback so far:
- Loved the mid-engine sound on both cars. Quite glorious, even more in the Boxster. With the top down the Boxster sounds great, even if not at speed, while the Cayman was a little bit more muted.
- Loved the 6-speed / clutch on the Cayman S more than the 5-speed on the Boxsters.
- Brakes on the two Boxsters did not felt as good/strong as the ones in the Cayman S.
- They all felt pretty firm, maybe even a little harsh on bad/poor city roads, but none had the PASM to try. It was (quite honestly) a little too harsh on city driving - I would love a "slightly" softer/more compliant ride for a daily driver since I do 80/20% city/highway driving (hence my comment later below about PASM).
- Both are significantly louder than my M3 was, BUT, in both Boxster/Cayman I felt more "connected" to the road. More "raw", but in a good way.
- Seats on both were great, as well as the driving position - ergonomics were perfect. Can't say how it would feel after a "long" drive, but it was easy to feel comfy right away.
- Cayman was quieter inside, but with the top down, the Boxster has awesome. I now get the whole "permanent smile" I hear about the Boxster!.
Based on how much more I enjoyed the Boxster, that is right now what I want to focus on. I am not selling the family sedans, so the Boxster would be an extra car, most likely for commuting to work, city driving, running errands with the wife or one of the kids (as both don't fit!),
I feel I need to try find a model with PASM now, even though it is not a common feature on my searches so far for the older cars.
I am of course worried about the IMS thing, but I got at least two shops to do the PPI done, so I am good there.
Of course, besides a local dealer or private sale, online sources such as this forum and the PCA site have some interesting cars in my price range, but I have never done the whole buying remote thing, so I am a little worried about doing that.
I have been looking at the year to year changes here:
https://sites.google.com/site/mikefo...eardifferences
And I am not sure if I should (or not) worried about those? The Porsche buyers guide my friend gave me shows the 2003/2004 as the best bang for the buck years, but of course, 2005 comes with the updated 987 and the PASM option. But newer costs more than old, right
So, tips/advice/recommendations?
Will
Dallas/Richardson
A friend of mine had an 2007 Cayman S, and now owns a 2014 Cayman S (PDK, PASM, etc.). Co-worker has older Cayman S, and another one has a 2011 911 (PDK, PASM, etc.). So I got them trying to "help me out", sort of speak
Sports car wise, I have owned a Camaro Z28, Miata, and 2002 M3 (SMG). I then had kids, and as a result how drive two family sedans (Acura TL & Infiniti G37). The Acura is almost paid, so I am planing on using that monthly budget towards the Porsche. My current budget is in the $15K range (I know, not a lot!), maybe close to upper teens to $20K).
I live here in the Dallas area, so I started to look for local cars so that I can try them first hand. My friends all said to go for the "S" model, but there are fewer of those, so today I test drove (all of them manual - not considering an auto!):
- 2006 Cayman S (19K miles, immaculate, with only 19.5K miles!)
- 2007 Boxster (base) 55K miles
- 2008 Boxster (base) 60K miles
Feedback so far:
- Loved the mid-engine sound on both cars. Quite glorious, even more in the Boxster. With the top down the Boxster sounds great, even if not at speed, while the Cayman was a little bit more muted.
- Loved the 6-speed / clutch on the Cayman S more than the 5-speed on the Boxsters.
- Brakes on the two Boxsters did not felt as good/strong as the ones in the Cayman S.
- They all felt pretty firm, maybe even a little harsh on bad/poor city roads, but none had the PASM to try. It was (quite honestly) a little too harsh on city driving - I would love a "slightly" softer/more compliant ride for a daily driver since I do 80/20% city/highway driving (hence my comment later below about PASM).
- Both are significantly louder than my M3 was, BUT, in both Boxster/Cayman I felt more "connected" to the road. More "raw", but in a good way.
- Seats on both were great, as well as the driving position - ergonomics were perfect. Can't say how it would feel after a "long" drive, but it was easy to feel comfy right away.
- Cayman was quieter inside, but with the top down, the Boxster has awesome. I now get the whole "permanent smile" I hear about the Boxster!.
Based on how much more I enjoyed the Boxster, that is right now what I want to focus on. I am not selling the family sedans, so the Boxster would be an extra car, most likely for commuting to work, city driving, running errands with the wife or one of the kids (as both don't fit!),
I feel I need to try find a model with PASM now, even though it is not a common feature on my searches so far for the older cars.
I am of course worried about the IMS thing, but I got at least two shops to do the PPI done, so I am good there.
Of course, besides a local dealer or private sale, online sources such as this forum and the PCA site have some interesting cars in my price range, but I have never done the whole buying remote thing, so I am a little worried about doing that.
I have been looking at the year to year changes here:
https://sites.google.com/site/mikefo...eardifferences
And I am not sure if I should (or not) worried about those? The Porsche buyers guide my friend gave me shows the 2003/2004 as the best bang for the buck years, but of course, 2005 comes with the updated 987 and the PASM option. But newer costs more than old, right
So, tips/advice/recommendations?
Will
Dallas/Richardson
#2
03/04 years are 986 (M96 motor). The cars you test drove are all 987s. Suggest look at and test drive a 986, but I think it's fair to say most prospective buyers will feel the 987 is a significant step up. As you're seeing PASM is a somewhat rare option. May take some patience to find one. Sounds like you're on the right track for PPI. There are quite a few threads on here about researching and buying used Boxsters. May want to search those for additional info. Best of luck in the search.
Edit, suggest also check the 987-981 subforum and the Cayman subforum for more 987 content.
Edit, suggest also check the 987-981 subforum and the Cayman subforum for more 987 content.
#3
Rennlist Member
> 2006 Cayman S (19K miles, immaculate, with only 19.5K miles!)
I had a 2008 manual Cayman S. Fantastic car!
Since you are looking for a manual, you better check DME report for over revs and do a PPI before closing any deal.
I had a 2008 manual Cayman S. Fantastic car!
Since you are looking for a manual, you better check DME report for over revs and do a PPI before closing any deal.
#5
Burning Brakes
The 2003 and 4 are better for the updates like the glass window top and glove box. But a 2000-2001 with the glass top replacement, an IMS replacement by the right part/mechanic/for the right reason and a solid maintenance history in the $15k range would be a very good buy too.
You aren't going to get Acura plushness and Porsche handling (wife had a TL during my Boxster ownership) in the same car at $15k. I commuted daily in mine and I lived in the DC area with its winter potholes on 17" tires and the standard '01S suspension. I didn't feel any need/desire for softness. Not that my preferences should be yours.
Tires and tire pressure can affect ride. Every aspect of car design is a compromise.
Its a combination of a lot of things that makes for a good buy. PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) and get the things suggested done right away.
You aren't going to get Acura plushness and Porsche handling (wife had a TL during my Boxster ownership) in the same car at $15k. I commuted daily in mine and I lived in the DC area with its winter potholes on 17" tires and the standard '01S suspension. I didn't feel any need/desire for softness. Not that my preferences should be yours.
Tires and tire pressure can affect ride. Every aspect of car design is a compromise.
Its a combination of a lot of things that makes for a good buy. PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) and get the things suggested done right away.
#6
Drive drive drive. I believe the search is a huge part of the fun. I think you need to take your time.
You did not mention that you want to do track events so in my mind that would give a point to the Boxster side of the scorecard (homer I know). I own a 997 and my wife has a 986 and both cars a tremendous. The 986 is a blast to drive home from a hard days work and instantly feel better. It doesn't have the control nannies nor does it have the power to need them, but it wants you to drive it harder and faster.
I would never tell anyone that if I had previously owned a Z28....
You did not mention that you want to do track events so in my mind that would give a point to the Boxster side of the scorecard (homer I know). I own a 997 and my wife has a 986 and both cars a tremendous. The 986 is a blast to drive home from a hard days work and instantly feel better. It doesn't have the control nannies nor does it have the power to need them, but it wants you to drive it harder and faster.
I would never tell anyone that if I had previously owned a Z28....
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Drive drive drive. I believe the search is a huge part of the fun. I think you need to take your time.
You did not mention that you want to do track events so in my mind that would give a point to the Boxster side of the scorecard (homer I know). I own a 997 and my wife has a 986 and both cars a tremendous. The 986 is a blast to drive home from a hard days work and instantly feel better. It doesn't have the control nannies nor does it have the power to need them, but it wants you to drive it harder and faster.
I would never tell anyone that if I had previously owned a Z28....
You did not mention that you want to do track events so in my mind that would give a point to the Boxster side of the scorecard (homer I know). I own a 997 and my wife has a 986 and both cars a tremendous. The 986 is a blast to drive home from a hard days work and instantly feel better. It doesn't have the control nannies nor does it have the power to need them, but it wants you to drive it harder and faster.
I would never tell anyone that if I had previously owned a Z28....
I found a 2006 Boxster S with 31K miles that looks really clean, so I am now trying to schedule a test-drive. I will report on what happens
Will
PS
I will keep chevy-related comments off this thread for now, but that corvette tranny in the Z with a short shift kit was outstanding to row
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#9
Race Director
'course, I hope heaven doesn't hold it against me my bit of heaven with my Porsche Boxster...
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, glad to see that I am in good company here
I talked to the local dealer, and the 2006 S is still for sale, so I made the appointment for this Saturday. I mentioned that if moving forward I would require the PPI at RAC Performance (here in the Dallas area), and he said no problem - in fact he knows Hans, the guy at RAC that does the PPI, so glad to see they are used to the PPI process.
I don't want to get too excited, and want to keep a level head, and objective, but I have to admit I am excited about Saturday
Will
I talked to the local dealer, and the 2006 S is still for sale, so I made the appointment for this Saturday. I mentioned that if moving forward I would require the PPI at RAC Performance (here in the Dallas area), and he said no problem - in fact he knows Hans, the guy at RAC that does the PPI, so glad to see they are used to the PPI process.
I don't want to get too excited, and want to keep a level head, and objective, but I have to admit I am excited about Saturday
Will
#11
Race Director
Well, glad to see that I am in good company here
I talked to the local dealer, and the 2006 S is still for sale, so I made the appointment for this Saturday. I mentioned that if moving forward I would require the PPI at RAC Performance (here in the Dallas area), and he said no problem - in fact he knows Hans, the guy at RAC that does the PPI, so glad to see they are used to the PPI process.
I don't want to get too excited, and want to keep a level head, and objective, but I have to admit I am excited about Saturday
Will
I talked to the local dealer, and the 2006 S is still for sale, so I made the appointment for this Saturday. I mentioned that if moving forward I would require the PPI at RAC Performance (here in the Dallas area), and he said no problem - in fact he knows Hans, the guy at RAC that does the PPI, so glad to see they are used to the PPI process.
I don't want to get too excited, and want to keep a level head, and objective, but I have to admit I am excited about Saturday
Will
Come Saturday go kick the tires and light the fires. Be sure you spend some time in the car and with the car on the road. They all are angels on the driveway but on the road can bring out the devil side, if there is one.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. I think you guys all have been there before
For this car, these are the specs from the dealer:
CARFAX CERTIFIED
2006 PORSCHE BOXSTER S
SPORT CHRONO PACKAGE PLUS
3.2L FUEL INJECTED 6-CYLINDER ENGINE
6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION
SPORT ROADSTER WITH ONLY 31K MILES
HEATED FRONT SPORT SEATS
FULL LEATHER INTERIOR
PREMIUM BOSE SOUND SYSTEM
POWER CONVERTIBLE TOP
REAR SPOILER
RED BRAKE CALIPERS
19-INCH CARRERA S WHEELS
FACTORY FLOOR MATS
ORIGINAL OWNER'S MANUAL
2 KEYS WITH BUILT-IN REMOTES
The car has a clean Carfax, and also a clean AutoCheck (no accidents/problems), but I bet there are no records of any kind (hence the PPI's importance in this case). Per the Carfax, the car was first in California, then Virginia, and finally FL, where I bet if when the local dealer in Dallas purchased to resell.
So besides the obvious test drive, the PPI will be extra important to see what maintenance has not been done. The other area of importance is the IMS bearing of course - since the worst years are 2000-2005, I am hoping that the PPI will reveal that this 2006 is in good shape for me not to worry.
Final piece of advice from you guys is on pricing and potential repairs from the PPI. Questions:
1) The ask price is $24.5K, so I am sure there is some room to negotiate - based on what you guys know, what would be a reasonable offer without taking into account PPI-related repairs/maintenance? A friend of mine said to offer like $21.5K or so. Ideas/advice?
2) Lets say the PPI reveals $2K work of maintenance that needs to get done. How do most folks work that out with the dealer/seller? How much of that and how you negotiate who pays for what?
3) Do most folks agree on a price on the car, pending the PPI? Or do you guys do the PPI and then finalize pricing?
Will
For this car, these are the specs from the dealer:
CARFAX CERTIFIED
2006 PORSCHE BOXSTER S
SPORT CHRONO PACKAGE PLUS
3.2L FUEL INJECTED 6-CYLINDER ENGINE
6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION
SPORT ROADSTER WITH ONLY 31K MILES
HEATED FRONT SPORT SEATS
FULL LEATHER INTERIOR
PREMIUM BOSE SOUND SYSTEM
POWER CONVERTIBLE TOP
REAR SPOILER
RED BRAKE CALIPERS
19-INCH CARRERA S WHEELS
FACTORY FLOOR MATS
ORIGINAL OWNER'S MANUAL
2 KEYS WITH BUILT-IN REMOTES
The car has a clean Carfax, and also a clean AutoCheck (no accidents/problems), but I bet there are no records of any kind (hence the PPI's importance in this case). Per the Carfax, the car was first in California, then Virginia, and finally FL, where I bet if when the local dealer in Dallas purchased to resell.
So besides the obvious test drive, the PPI will be extra important to see what maintenance has not been done. The other area of importance is the IMS bearing of course - since the worst years are 2000-2005, I am hoping that the PPI will reveal that this 2006 is in good shape for me not to worry.
Final piece of advice from you guys is on pricing and potential repairs from the PPI. Questions:
1) The ask price is $24.5K, so I am sure there is some room to negotiate - based on what you guys know, what would be a reasonable offer without taking into account PPI-related repairs/maintenance? A friend of mine said to offer like $21.5K or so. Ideas/advice?
2) Lets say the PPI reveals $2K work of maintenance that needs to get done. How do most folks work that out with the dealer/seller? How much of that and how you negotiate who pays for what?
3) Do most folks agree on a price on the car, pending the PPI? Or do you guys do the PPI and then finalize pricing?
Will
#13
Burning Brakes
I negotiated a pre-PPI price barring major problems with the S which would cancel the sale. My PPI revealed $2k work needed (complete brakes, for example, and tires were cupped). Since there was nothing fatal, I went with the original sale since the total cost was reasonable. I could have asked for the $1k brake job. But everything is negotiable. Eventually I added about $1k more in the first month to do a 90k major service since it was the most comprehensive and gave me a situation where I knew the service history of all replaceable parts. This was before the IMS issue was widely known and all the PPI could tell was there were no oil leaks in the area of the RMS/IMS which is still the case.
#14
Thanks. I think you guys all have been there before
For this car, these are the specs from the dealer:
CARFAX CERTIFIED
2006 PORSCHE BOXSTER S
SPORT CHRONO PACKAGE PLUS
3.2L FUEL INJECTED 6-CYLINDER ENGINE
6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION
SPORT ROADSTER WITH ONLY 31K MILES
HEATED FRONT SPORT SEATS
FULL LEATHER INTERIOR
PREMIUM BOSE SOUND SYSTEM
POWER CONVERTIBLE TOP
REAR SPOILER
RED BRAKE CALIPERS
19-INCH CARRERA S WHEELS
FACTORY FLOOR MATS
ORIGINAL OWNER'S MANUAL
2 KEYS WITH BUILT-IN REMOTES
The car has a clean Carfax, and also a clean AutoCheck (no accidents/problems), but I bet there are no records of any kind (hence the PPI's importance in this case). Per the Carfax, the car was first in California, then Virginia, and finally FL, where I bet if when the local dealer in Dallas purchased to resell.
So besides the obvious test drive, the PPI will be extra important to see what maintenance has not been done. The other area of importance is the IMS bearing of course - since the worst years are 2000-2005, I am hoping that the PPI will reveal that this 2006 is in good shape for me not to worry.
Final piece of advice from you guys is on pricing and potential repairs from the PPI. Questions:
1) The ask price is $24.5K, so I am sure there is some room to negotiate - based on what you guys know, what would be a reasonable offer without taking into account PPI-related repairs/maintenance? A friend of mine said to offer like $21.5K or so. Ideas/advice?
2) Lets say the PPI reveals $2K work of maintenance that needs to get done. How do most folks work that out with the dealer/seller? How much of that and how you negotiate who pays for what?
3) Do most folks agree on a price on the car, pending the PPI? Or do you guys do the PPI and then finalize pricing?
Will
For this car, these are the specs from the dealer:
CARFAX CERTIFIED
2006 PORSCHE BOXSTER S
SPORT CHRONO PACKAGE PLUS
3.2L FUEL INJECTED 6-CYLINDER ENGINE
6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION
SPORT ROADSTER WITH ONLY 31K MILES
HEATED FRONT SPORT SEATS
FULL LEATHER INTERIOR
PREMIUM BOSE SOUND SYSTEM
POWER CONVERTIBLE TOP
REAR SPOILER
RED BRAKE CALIPERS
19-INCH CARRERA S WHEELS
FACTORY FLOOR MATS
ORIGINAL OWNER'S MANUAL
2 KEYS WITH BUILT-IN REMOTES
The car has a clean Carfax, and also a clean AutoCheck (no accidents/problems), but I bet there are no records of any kind (hence the PPI's importance in this case). Per the Carfax, the car was first in California, then Virginia, and finally FL, where I bet if when the local dealer in Dallas purchased to resell.
So besides the obvious test drive, the PPI will be extra important to see what maintenance has not been done. The other area of importance is the IMS bearing of course - since the worst years are 2000-2005, I am hoping that the PPI will reveal that this 2006 is in good shape for me not to worry.
Final piece of advice from you guys is on pricing and potential repairs from the PPI. Questions:
1) The ask price is $24.5K, so I am sure there is some room to negotiate - based on what you guys know, what would be a reasonable offer without taking into account PPI-related repairs/maintenance? A friend of mine said to offer like $21.5K or so. Ideas/advice?
2) Lets say the PPI reveals $2K work of maintenance that needs to get done. How do most folks work that out with the dealer/seller? How much of that and how you negotiate who pays for what?
3) Do most folks agree on a price on the car, pending the PPI? Or do you guys do the PPI and then finalize pricing?
Will
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I negotiated a pre-PPI price barring major problems with the S which would cancel the sale. My PPI revealed $2k work needed (complete brakes, for example, and tires were cupped). Since there was nothing fatal, I went with the original sale since the total cost was reasonable. I could have asked for the $1k brake job. But everything is negotiable. Eventually I added about $1k more in the first month to do a 90k major service since it was the most comprehensive and gave me a situation where I knew the service history of all replaceable parts. This was before the IMS issue was widely known and all the PPI could tell was there were no oil leaks in the area of the RMS/IMS which is still the case.