How to: Lifting and jacking a Boxster
03-13-2016, 01:39 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
How to: Lifting and jacking a Boxster
Thought I’d post a quick video on where the jacking points are on a Boxster and how to lift it onto stands.
Car used: Porsche Boxster S 986
They'll be a lot of situations where you'll need to get under your car and you'll want to do it safely.
To do this you will need to know where on a car is strong enough to be a lifting point and where to safely position stands.
The quicker and, in my opinion, safer solution is to use a set of ramps. I'll go through both options.
Here’s a summary of what we’ll be doing:
1. Crack wheel nuts
2. Lift
3. Place stands
4. Lower the car
Tools
ˇ breaker bar
ˇ socket set
ˇ locking wheel nut adaptor
ˇ jack
ˇ stands
ˇ ramps
ˇ torque wrench
I listed the ones I use on my website http://road-and-race.co.uk/tools
1. If the task you're planning to do requires the wheels to be off then you'll need to loosen the wheel nuts before you lift your car. Take your breaker bar and attach the correct size socket and turn anti clockwise. if your car has locking wheel nuts you need the adaptor
2. Park your car on a level surface.
3. Then you’ll need to find a strong enough place on the car to lift it by. There are two solid mount areas on side of the car. Check out the video above for where they are.
4. Most jacks have a release mechanism which allows the jack to lower. To start you'll need to turn the handle clockwise to lock it ready for lifting.
5. If you just need to raise the front of the car place you jack on the lifting point near the rear wheel. Jack until your car is high enough then place a stand under the front lifting point. Slowly lower the vehicle to rest securely on the stand. Repeat for the other side.
It’s the opposite approach if you just want to lift the rear of the car but remember to place chocks under the front wheels to stop the car rolling forward.
6. Now if you need to lift the whole car you’ll need to use a use one of those strong areas we talked about earlier. On my Porsche you can lift the rear from this point near the differential and the front from this reinforced chassis section. (please see the video above)
7. As before place a stand under the jack point and lower the car
8. Test the car is stable by giving it a moderate push - you want to make sure it’s safe to work under.
9. The other option is to use ramps. The disadvantage is that they are more expensive and can only lift one half of the car. They are also no use if you need to take they wheels off. The advantage is that to use them you simply drive on them so save a lot of time and I personally feel much safer working under ramps than stands. I got mine from Race Ramps.
10. Lowering the car back down is the opposite of the lifting process. Don’t forget to use a torque wrench to tighten your wheel nuts to the correct torque. On my Boxster the wheel nuts should be tightened to 130 Nm.
Car used: Porsche Boxster S 986
They'll be a lot of situations where you'll need to get under your car and you'll want to do it safely.
To do this you will need to know where on a car is strong enough to be a lifting point and where to safely position stands.
The quicker and, in my opinion, safer solution is to use a set of ramps. I'll go through both options.
Here’s a summary of what we’ll be doing:
1. Crack wheel nuts
2. Lift
3. Place stands
4. Lower the car
Tools
ˇ breaker bar
ˇ socket set
ˇ locking wheel nut adaptor
ˇ jack
ˇ stands
ˇ ramps
ˇ torque wrench
I listed the ones I use on my website http://road-and-race.co.uk/tools
1. If the task you're planning to do requires the wheels to be off then you'll need to loosen the wheel nuts before you lift your car. Take your breaker bar and attach the correct size socket and turn anti clockwise. if your car has locking wheel nuts you need the adaptor
2. Park your car on a level surface.
3. Then you’ll need to find a strong enough place on the car to lift it by. There are two solid mount areas on side of the car. Check out the video above for where they are.
4. Most jacks have a release mechanism which allows the jack to lower. To start you'll need to turn the handle clockwise to lock it ready for lifting.
5. If you just need to raise the front of the car place you jack on the lifting point near the rear wheel. Jack until your car is high enough then place a stand under the front lifting point. Slowly lower the vehicle to rest securely on the stand. Repeat for the other side.
It’s the opposite approach if you just want to lift the rear of the car but remember to place chocks under the front wheels to stop the car rolling forward.
6. Now if you need to lift the whole car you’ll need to use a use one of those strong areas we talked about earlier. On my Porsche you can lift the rear from this point near the differential and the front from this reinforced chassis section. (please see the video above)
7. As before place a stand under the jack point and lower the car
8. Test the car is stable by giving it a moderate push - you want to make sure it’s safe to work under.
9. The other option is to use ramps. The disadvantage is that they are more expensive and can only lift one half of the car. They are also no use if you need to take they wheels off. The advantage is that to use them you simply drive on them so save a lot of time and I personally feel much safer working under ramps than stands. I got mine from Race Ramps.
10. Lowering the car back down is the opposite of the lifting process. Don’t forget to use a torque wrench to tighten your wheel nuts to the correct torque. On my Boxster the wheel nuts should be tightened to 130 Nm.
03-13-2016, 04:43 PM
#2
Race Director
Couple of problems. One is the only factory sanctioned lifting points are the lifting posts one at each corner. All other "lifting points" are just assumed to be ok to use because the car doesn't manifest any immediate or obvious signs the lifting areas are not ok.
Even when lifting the car by the sanctioned lift points the jack pad should have a rubber pad placed to avoid marring the finish (the paint) of the lift point being used.
The metal underside of the car is painted with a very durable and tough paint which is intended to avoid rock damage which can then be a place for corrosion to begin.
Lifting the car without proper protection damages the paint and is a place for corrosion to begin.
Even when lifting the car by the sanctioned lift points the jack pad should have a rubber pad placed to avoid marring the finish (the paint) of the lift point being used.
The metal underside of the car is painted with a very durable and tough paint which is intended to avoid rock damage which can then be a place for corrosion to begin.
Lifting the car without proper protection damages the paint and is a place for corrosion to begin.
03-13-2016, 05:48 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
If you search jackpoint as a single word on Rennlist or google you'll see an option that addresses the above issues. It's not a cheap solution, but probably less expensive than the cost of fixing a car damaged by lifting in the wrong place.
03-13-2016, 06:59 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
just buy the liftbars and eliminate all of the hassle. You can get the car up safely and higher in about 5 minutes. Linky: http://liftbars.com/. They work on the 986 and 987 just fine.
03-14-2016, 10:07 AM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks Macster, you are right. A top tip - you want to avoid marking the paint with the jack. It's probably not clear in the video but there is a rubber pad on the jack to avoid damaging the paint.
