V8 Conversion
08-22-2015, 03:35 AM
#76
The wiring on this project just doesn’t stop… The entire harness in the trunk had to be replaced. The previous owner was building a track car and cut half the stuff off. He even cut the ABS/speed sensor, which I don’t think he was supposed to. Thanks to Woody on the 986 forum I was able to pick one up for cheap. The engine harness was a bit of a pain to tear up since the Porsche diagrams are a huge pain in the butt to read. Most of the connection pins come out easily, but for some you need to make a special tool. BTW if you need any help with the wiring, just send me an email.
https://i.imgur.com/ztQ4L3y.jpg
The pins on these types of connections will not come out easily. You need to remove the back cover and stick in a think metal tube (you can make one from a pop can) through the front of the connector, between the plastic and the pin. Pushing the pin forward from the back while inserting the tube makes it much easier to take apart.
I’m slowly making some progress cleaning up the wiring. I used a couple of no longer needed relays to power the GM PCM and the water pump.The LS1 PCM is massive and won’t fit on the firewall like the Porsche DME. I had a sheet of aluminum kicking around so I made a mount. I don’t have the latest picture of the wiring, but it is starting to look pretty clean.
https://i.imgur.com/ztQ4L3y.jpg
The pins on these types of connections will not come out easily. You need to remove the back cover and stick in a think metal tube (you can make one from a pop can) through the front of the connector, between the plastic and the pin. Pushing the pin forward from the back while inserting the tube makes it much easier to take apart.
I’m slowly making some progress cleaning up the wiring. I used a couple of no longer needed relays to power the GM PCM and the water pump.The LS1 PCM is massive and won’t fit on the firewall like the Porsche DME. I had a sheet of aluminum kicking around so I made a mount. I don’t have the latest picture of the wiring, but it is starting to look pretty clean.
08-22-2015, 03:36 AM
#77
The shell came with no headlights, but luckily I was able to pick up a decent set for $150 CAD. The lenses were so bad though, that I decided to take them out altogether.
Somehow I didn’t notice that I purchased mismatched headlights until I put them on. One is painted silver, and one isn’t.
Somehow I didn’t notice that I purchased mismatched headlights until I put them on. One is painted silver, and one isn’t.
08-22-2015, 03:39 AM
#78
Forgot to mention, I started the engine for the first time last Friday. Here's a short Instagram video. Sorry about the quality, we really weren't expecting it to start the first try.
https://instagram.com/p/6YWIQsASWc/?taken-by=porschelsx
https://instagram.com/p/6YWIQsASWc/?taken-by=porschelsx
08-23-2015, 07:25 PM
#79
Starter Motor:
I picked up an $50 starter from a local scrap yard which came off a 2005 Silverado. The Kennedy Engineering adapter plate was designed around LS1 starter, so I had to make some modifications. The moulding in the dome is a little bigger I guess... I spent a good hour filing away, but eventually I got it to fit. The reason I got a truck starter over LS1 is because it's cheaper and I heard LS1 starters tend to crack.
Oil:
I didn't want to start the engine without priming it, so I purchased a drill pump at Princess Auto for $15. One end of the hose clamps onto the filter threads on the oil pan and the other into a jug of oil. This pump has no problems reaching 45 PSI. I stuck a gauge on my remote mount oil pressure switch hose (I will eventually post part numbers and pics for this part).
As for the tranny, I called Porsche about gear oil, which they quoted me at $55 a liter!!! I ended up purchasing some Swepco 201 which is manufactured locally, but surprisingly difficult to find.
Engine Cover:
The engine cover still fits, but it had to be cut a bit to make room for the throttlebody.
Rennline Floor Boards:
Rennline hooked me up with a wicked deal on their racing floor boards. I really didn't want to put carpet back in this car, so these things are great.
Corbeau Seats:
I also gotta thank Corbeau for hooking me up with a deal on these FX1 Pro seats and rails. My friend started working on the brackets the other day while I was making brake lines.
Cracked Rear Subframe:
I noticed a crack on the rear subframe side section where it mounts to the body. It seems like it was put together with a bent stud by the previous owner that caused it to crack. While taking it off, one of the lower control arm bolts got stuck inside the bushing and pretty much pulled it apart. This was a huge pain in the ***, but at least I got a sweet deal from Woody for the replacement.
Brakes:
Pretty much all the brakes lines are gone on this car. I tried making some hard lines out of the copper-nickel stuff, but had a hard time getting them to flare properly. I ended up buying some poly vinyl fluoride coated metal lines from NAPA. This stuff is great, they flare perfectly and are easy to bend. I would also recommend Lisle tube pliers if you plan on doing any kind of brake line work.
I picked up an $50 starter from a local scrap yard which came off a 2005 Silverado. The Kennedy Engineering adapter plate was designed around LS1 starter, so I had to make some modifications. The moulding in the dome is a little bigger I guess... I spent a good hour filing away, but eventually I got it to fit. The reason I got a truck starter over LS1 is because it's cheaper and I heard LS1 starters tend to crack.
Oil:
I didn't want to start the engine without priming it, so I purchased a drill pump at Princess Auto for $15. One end of the hose clamps onto the filter threads on the oil pan and the other into a jug of oil. This pump has no problems reaching 45 PSI. I stuck a gauge on my remote mount oil pressure switch hose (I will eventually post part numbers and pics for this part).
As for the tranny, I called Porsche about gear oil, which they quoted me at $55 a liter!!! I ended up purchasing some Swepco 201 which is manufactured locally, but surprisingly difficult to find.
Engine Cover:
The engine cover still fits, but it had to be cut a bit to make room for the throttlebody.
Rennline Floor Boards:
Rennline hooked me up with a wicked deal on their racing floor boards. I really didn't want to put carpet back in this car, so these things are great.
Corbeau Seats:
I also gotta thank Corbeau for hooking me up with a deal on these FX1 Pro seats and rails. My friend started working on the brackets the other day while I was making brake lines.
Cracked Rear Subframe:
I noticed a crack on the rear subframe side section where it mounts to the body. It seems like it was put together with a bent stud by the previous owner that caused it to crack. While taking it off, one of the lower control arm bolts got stuck inside the bushing and pretty much pulled it apart. This was a huge pain in the ***, but at least I got a sweet deal from Woody for the replacement.
Brakes:
Pretty much all the brakes lines are gone on this car. I tried making some hard lines out of the copper-nickel stuff, but had a hard time getting them to flare properly. I ended up buying some poly vinyl fluoride coated metal lines from NAPA. This stuff is great, they flare perfectly and are easy to bend. I would also recommend Lisle tube pliers if you plan on doing any kind of brake line work.
08-27-2015, 08:51 PM
#80
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Conversions
I've got an EJ 2.5 in mine.
I could use some help I'ding the wires that I need to reinstate to get ABS cooling ect working right...
Specifically abs and cooling stuff.
Thanks matt
I took the first spin around the block last week. Yeeehaaa!
I could use some help I'ding the wires that I need to reinstate to get ABS cooling ect working right...
Specifically abs and cooling stuff.
Thanks matt
I took the first spin around the block last week. Yeeehaaa!
09-03-2015, 01:50 AM
#81
Sorry I didn't see your message. To be honest, I haven't got tothe abs stuff yet. As long as you have wires going to all the speed sensors in each wheel, it should be working fine.
What issues are you having cooling wise? Are you using a Subaru ECU to run the fans or the Porsche one? If you are going with Porsche, you will need to put in a water temperature sensor in the engine for the DME.
Do you have any pics of your swap? I'd love to see a Subaru engine in there.
09-03-2015, 08:57 AM
#82
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subie-boxster 98 base boxster with an EJ 2.5 4 cyl
I'm not able to drive it yet (once around the block) as brake booster was filled with h20 since OG engine popped 8yrs ago...
I see that there is a 3pin sensor on the transaxel (looks like a speed sensor?) does this need to tie into the ABS system or only the wheel sensors needed???
I'm running the subie ECU no DME, fans run under test, but If I understand it right there are two front fans that should run hi and low and an engine bay fan that is only one speed. If that is right than my pass front fan is not running on low speed??? WTF thought on this?
I have air bag light on dash, when I removed the drivers seat would that have set the light off? (I've tried to make the connection without battery but no change?
Next the soft top no longer works (but I'd gotten it all fixed before the swap, and after I'd removed the OG motor) It seems like it's not getting power now, I've checked the micro switches??? thoughts?
Then there is the cooling level (and air trap indicator) lights, mine blinks slowly and I believe I'v e bleed the radiators properly (airlift) yet no change in light. Any knowledge on how it works?
Matt
Thanks for your help, most P-car people hear Subie and stop talking....
I see that there is a 3pin sensor on the transaxel (looks like a speed sensor?) does this need to tie into the ABS system or only the wheel sensors needed???
I'm running the subie ECU no DME, fans run under test, but If I understand it right there are two front fans that should run hi and low and an engine bay fan that is only one speed. If that is right than my pass front fan is not running on low speed??? WTF thought on this?
I have air bag light on dash, when I removed the drivers seat would that have set the light off? (I've tried to make the connection without battery but no change?
Next the soft top no longer works (but I'd gotten it all fixed before the swap, and after I'd removed the OG motor) It seems like it's not getting power now, I've checked the micro switches??? thoughts?
Then there is the cooling level (and air trap indicator) lights, mine blinks slowly and I believe I'v e bleed the radiators properly (airlift) yet no change in light. Any knowledge on how it works?
Matt
Thanks for your help, most P-car people hear Subie and stop talking....
09-03-2015, 08:02 PM
#84
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09-03-2015, 10:31 PM
#86
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Frankenstein ...
Well they are all the same mounts/ flyweel/ and patern.
Once it's sorted it will be swaped/upgraded.
I can't decide supercharger or turbo. . .
Matt
P.s. The Subie six is the same mounts too.
Once it's sorted it will be swaped/upgraded.
I can't decide supercharger or turbo. . .
Matt
P.s. The Subie six is the same mounts too.
09-05-2015, 07:49 PM
#88
I'm not able to drive it yet (once around the block) as brake booster was filled with h20 since OG engine popped 8yrs ago...
I see that there is a 3pin sensor on the transaxel (looks like a speed sensor?) does this need to tie into the ABS system or only the wheel sensors needed???
I'm running the subie ECU no DME, fans run under test, but If I understand it right there are two front fans that should run hi and low and an engine bay fan that is only one speed. If that is right than my pass front fan is not running on low speed??? WTF thought on this?
I have air bag light on dash, when I removed the drivers seat would that have set the light off? (I've tried to make the connection without battery but no change?
Next the soft top no longer works (but I'd gotten it all fixed before the swap, and after I'd removed the OG motor) It seems like it's not getting power now, I've checked the micro switches??? thoughts?
Then there is the cooling level (and air trap indicator) lights, mine blinks slowly and I believe I'v e bleed the radiators properly (airlift) yet no change in light. Any knowledge on how it works?
Matt
Thanks for your help, most P-car people hear Subie and stop talking....
I see that there is a 3pin sensor on the transaxel (looks like a speed sensor?) does this need to tie into the ABS system or only the wheel sensors needed???
I'm running the subie ECU no DME, fans run under test, but If I understand it right there are two front fans that should run hi and low and an engine bay fan that is only one speed. If that is right than my pass front fan is not running on low speed??? WTF thought on this?
I have air bag light on dash, when I removed the drivers seat would that have set the light off? (I've tried to make the connection without battery but no change?
Next the soft top no longer works (but I'd gotten it all fixed before the swap, and after I'd removed the OG motor) It seems like it's not getting power now, I've checked the micro switches??? thoughts?
Then there is the cooling level (and air trap indicator) lights, mine blinks slowly and I believe I'v e bleed the radiators properly (airlift) yet no change in light. Any knowledge on how it works?
Matt
Thanks for your help, most P-car people hear Subie and stop talking....
Just watch the video, its pretty badass. Here's mine https://instagram.com/p/7Qi5nigSR_/?taken-by=porschelsx
Now to answer some of your questions. The speed/abs sensors are in the wheels. You should have two wires running to each hub. One for the brake pad wear and one for abs/speed. The tach sensor used to be on the block and it read the teeth on the flywheel. I'm not sure how subaru system works for the tach.
I'm waiting on my radiator fan resistors, so I have no idea if my fans are running properly either. Does subaru have the high and low fan speeds? If they are wired in parallel, there should be no reason for one to run at different speeds.
I have no airbags or automatic top in my car. Doesn't the airbag system work off the porsche DME?
I'm having trouble bleeding my system too. People say to just run the car with the bleeder open for a couple of days.
09-07-2015, 06:59 PM
#89
I had a bit of an accident that set me back a week or so, but I'm back on track now. Below I posted some recent car pics.
I bought some sheet aluminum for $20 and made a firewall cover. I wish I had fitted the seats first because there isn't enough leg room for me at the moment. I will have to add a bit of an angle to the cover in order to move the seats farther back. I mounted the hand brake housing just above the "tranny tunnel" just to simplify things. Putting it where Renegade does is a pain, and it requires twisting the wire a little more than I like.
I also got a new intake manifold due to some serious defects in the old one. A 1-3/8" freeze plug from Napa worked great to plug the EGR opening.
The car is 95% done at this point. I’m just waiting on a couple of intake parts and need to get the exhaust made. I am also looking to install a fire suppression system in the trunk.
The big things to do now is get insurance, safety, and emissions done.
Another quick video of it running https://instagram.com/p/7Qi5nigSR_/?taken-by=porschelsx
I bought some sheet aluminum for $20 and made a firewall cover. I wish I had fitted the seats first because there isn't enough leg room for me at the moment. I will have to add a bit of an angle to the cover in order to move the seats farther back. I mounted the hand brake housing just above the "tranny tunnel" just to simplify things. Putting it where Renegade does is a pain, and it requires twisting the wire a little more than I like.
I also got a new intake manifold due to some serious defects in the old one. A 1-3/8" freeze plug from Napa worked great to plug the EGR opening.
The car is 95% done at this point. I’m just waiting on a couple of intake parts and need to get the exhaust made. I am also looking to install a fire suppression system in the trunk.
The big things to do now is get insurance, safety, and emissions done.
Another quick video of it running https://instagram.com/p/7Qi5nigSR_/?taken-by=porschelsx
