PorscheDoc

The ecu will stop counting type 1s at about 65,500 and some odd change. Ive got a print screen somewhere around here with a TT with maxed type 1's and 13k type 2's. Typically we see the type 1s that high when there has been and ECU flash done where the rev limiter was raised. That way it starts counting type 1's before you hit the flashed higher redline.

GVA-SFO

Hello Doc,
Thanks a lot for the message. Very interesting.
To my knowledge, this car has not been "ECU reprog." (ECU Flash).
But, it is true, that the past of this car (I have "carfax" report) has a quite wild and strange history.
(And, simply a lot of "entries" in the carfax report.)

Now, more important : Does a "normal" (!!!) "hit the rev limiter" would add "R1" ?
I would think that the answer is full yes.
And then, (if yes) the differences between the first ECU reading that I posted on the top of page 1 and the last one, in the bottom of the page 2, are, to my understanding not "R1 getting close to 65'535" (this number is the highest that you can write using a 16 bits word, which by the way, is certainly the category of computer (16 bits) used in this old ECU !!), ..but simply over revs, that I did create on track (yes, you can blame me, this is very bad thing to do) by not shifting from 3 to 4, arriving before a curve, and at the "last second", braking a bit later, ..and pushing too far on rpm on 3rd !
Yes, I agree, simply bad driving, that would not pass any bar with any instructor !
By the way, I did those (late shift, or better to say : no shift up just before braking) just after getting (or starting to be) "comfy at the track", at Sonoma Raceway 2 weeks ago.
For sure, laps later, I was shifting to the 4th on these spots, therefore stopping to adds "R1".
All to say that I feel, that these were my "R1", and not blaming the ECU that had counted something else !!

GVA-SFO

Good to have the Boxster back home, after the flatbed call #1, (engine would not start anymore) and then, few days at the dealer (fuel pump not in stock).
All looks very good again !
Btw, my tow hook is "gone" in this venture. This was a "nice" aluminum (light is good !) Taiwanese hook, but when unloading the car from the flatbed, ..it broke !
So : Very lucky that the car did not run away when it did happen (I was not present) ! and, good experience to know that these aluminum hooks are just good for deco, but in case on real need, we simply cannot count on these ! (Well, the only good use was to tie wrap the timing transponder on it !!!)
Next : I will go to steel ..for a solid tow hook!

GVA-SFO

20 miles later, the brand new fuel pump decided to follow the previous one ! Gone again.
So, flatbed call #2 (thank you AAA) and back to dealer.



Understand that this one broke, leaving metallic particles in the gas tank, that had to be flushed, cleaned, etc.. and, another brand new fuel pump has been re-installed.
After testing, trying, etc.. I got the car back again, and now, all things seems to be fine.
Hopefully, serious (Porsche) dealer, so this repair was fully under warranty this time.

GVA-SFO

I came to the point that both passing the “broomstick check” (quite important for safety) and having a roll bar that would enable me to be dressed with R-compound tires become a serious problem.

The “B-K Bar” is a good solution, but frankly, I did not like the fact that you have to remove the padding on the OEM hoop bar, and to have to remove the mesh wind stopper to install a “B–K Bar” !
So, for a good time, my roll bar stayed in the garage.

When, recently, I got the recommendation to see Marcus Fry Racing, in Redwood City, for “fixing" such problem.

This was a “golden” recommendation.
First, I was received by a VERY nice person, very knowledgeable, and very talented (Master in soldering, specialist in roll cages, etc.. *).
In a very short time, my B-K Bar was “re-engineered”, the braces to fix the bar on the OEM “nude” tubing of the Boxster Hoop rollbar were suppressed, and new fixations were very strongly soldered on both the bar and the hoop, this with a super fast easy removing system.
So, the OEM padding can remain in place, as well as the winstoppers.

Here is how the mods looks :



Steel guides (strong, and to enable flush mounting) preparation



the look of the design, after soldering



Rear view of the re-engineered bar



From the front

..Yes, painting is an issue, ..but in the mean time, ..going back to track, was more important then painting
So, hello again Sonoma Raceway, such a great track so happy to be here again.

* Btw, i.e.: seen at "Markus Fry lab", (when installing a my BK bar) cars like a small Lexus, looking from the outside like a "regular" Lexus (or, yes, an "appliance", not a car !), but when he did turn it on, to move it a bit, I heard a noise, ..of something else. Opening the hood, I saw a 351 Chevy with a ProCharger !
To have Markus telling me in a very modest way : "Yes, I did this mod, for a customer, that wanted for his Lexus more power, but a very discrete look !"

GVA-SFO

I was looking at the above photos, and felt that my mod about the BK bar (what I called “reverse mounting”) was not really well “defined”.

So, here are some photos that should give a better explanations.
The advantages :
. Super easy to install, (you do not have to remove the OEM paddings) and the top fixations takes only two screws. (A less than 2 mins easy job.)
. Safety when driving in and out to track, as the padding are still present. (I’m one of these that think strongly that driving a car with roll cage without an helmet can be VERY dangerous.)
. You can keep wind stoppers (central and the grille “hoop ones”).
. It protect better than the hoop, ..and enable to pass the broomstick test !

The disadvantage :
. You can not put the roof back in place (it hit the back of the bar).
(On that one, I do not care. More than that, I plan to remove the electric roof, will “explain” my idea later on, when done, as I want to remove this weight.) Btw, when the roof will be removed, I will add two pillars (left and right), going to the rear, to make this roll bar being a 6 points.

GVA-SFO

In the mean time, about the weight, “shooting at the big one”, I removed the piece of lead located in the front top of my dashboard (17.2kg, or 38 pounds), this, in my goal to make the car a bit less heavy.
I decided to buy an Antigravity battery, 24 cells, spec : 720 crank amps, that do start up my 3.2l. flat six, like a charm.

It does, and make it very well.

Currently I have a kill switch inside, ..which is not very convenient, but does the trick, when I leave home for good time. I plan to add an external kill switch, to make it more convenient, but, in the mean time, the tests that I wanted to do, before drilling across the body (I should write the hood !) were just 100% successful.

And I replaced these 38 pounds of Lead and acid against 4 pounds Lithium, adding a polystyrene and balsa “shape adaptor”, (total .5 pound !) with a hard wood bottom plate, that match the OEM battery fixation.
A great 33 pounds saving, that were located pretty high up, or, also lowering the center of gravity point too !




Inclunding the Antigravity special charger (never use a regular charger for a LiIon battery !) connector :



Final stage ofthe intergration into a light container compatible with OEM battery form factor :



Lithium Ion in place. But, as the kill switch inside "option" was not so clever (if someone close the hood, then, ciao !), I opted for wiring an outside (on the top of hood) "Hella" kill switch :



On the other side, it looks like :



Or, if you look closer :



and if you ask me how this piece of aluminum was cut, here is some fun : hey, I'm in Silicon Valley, so, a little computer drawing, and then, interface to laser, and ...after less than a five seconds "butter" cut : (cutting and "drilling" the actual piece, out of an 1/4" aluminum plate)



As I wrote above, if you need a roll bar / cage, or any metal work on your racing car, in my opinion, the best address is Marcus Frys Enterprise, in Redwood City. Laser cut or high class welding : just great work.

GVA-SFO

Getting ready for the next mod : install a ".5 qt. oil extension" together with a "metal doors" oil baffle, (already ordered), then, I will be ready to get rid of my "Hand Cook" V12 "city tires", that are by far, ..not in my "best of" list of the shoes of my cars !
But, I'm convinced that these tires were a very good conservation agent for my engine (thanks to these, I think my oil pump never had the taste of air !).
May be I got a set of hand cook, where the chef put too much oil (or soap ?) in the mix before shaping mine !!
Well, as soon as my M96 will have a better oil sucking system, I will go R compound, and thinking already about that, it should be Nitto's.
(I'm one of these that think that the equation of M96 with OEM oil pan system + R compound tires could lead to serious engine problem.)

GVA-SFO

Some photos (of the next mod) ..before the assembly :

The OEM M96 oil baffle.
When you see the “rubber” doors, outside, at an ambient temperature, you can see that they are showing already a kind of “funny” shape !



I wonder to see how they look, when they are in the bath of oil, at engine track oil temperature !!!
(Together attached in a “rectangular” plastic shape, i.e.: the OEM plastic baffle.

Here is the Tarett Engineering oil baffle, i.e.: the model made for fitting the ½ quart sump extension. You can see the stainless steel oil baffle, that seems to fit very well the sump shape, that now include the extension (Tarett Engineering resell the BK 1/2 quart oil extension) :





Some detail of the metal doors. You can also note that I adopted a magnet oil plug.
All is now mounted in a bottom cover, that I bought on eBay (around 50 US$), in order to be able to have time to mount everything, slowly, and surely, taking my time for the best possible cleaning, without having to do that under the stress with a car in the lift and be in the rush to do such exchange within an economical timing !
Now, I’m ready to bring the car to my mechanic, and say, do oil change, and the exchange the current pan against this one !



I think, after this mod, I would feel more comfortable to exchange the tires and go “R” compound, ..will see !

Dan87951

Nice car! I like the decals on the side and alcantara stuff.

GVA-SFO

Another mod now in place :

The ½ quart oil sump is now in place, equipped with the “X-51” metal oil baffle, and a magnetic drain plug (IMO a must for ALL cars).

Frankly, no problem at all in term of “ride high”, even, in my case, where the car is on a quite low position (on Billstein PSS-9)



..Now, I feel ready for going with R compound tires !


Anybody with the need of a lower M96 oil sump, to have the time to prepare a modification of the oil baffle, with no stress on the bench, i.e.: install it when car is on lift and all is "pre-ready" ? Having done this change, I have mine on my bench, and I do not need it anymore (together with the OEM plastic oil baffle). (SOLD)

GVA-SFO

May be some "side info" about why the "R" compound tires are not yet "in place", ..now, that I hope (in the curves), the engine oil would better stay in the right place before be pumped !
I want to have a TPMS, and, sure, on such old car, it can only be a "third party" solution. And for sure, I did choose a system ..that will also give me together (on same read out) the pressure AND the temperature.
This is ordered, I'm only waiting for it.

GVA-SFO

Now, that the basic care of my M96 are done (metal oil baffle, oil pan extension, ..) the Nitto's (and TP+TMS sensors) are in place !
Looking for being back on track as soon as possible.
It is true that I start to get some weird noises in my Engine ? (or Gearbox) ?
May be next track trip should be on trailer !

GVA-SFO

Great to ride Laguna Seca again.
Big thanks to Doug Gale and his great team at Track Masters. Like always, great people on paddock and great drivers on the track, a real top class HPDE.

The Nitto’s are so great, (an easy 5 to 6 sec. gain per lap) but, now, even with the metal oil baffle and the half quart oil sump extension, I had some "M96" fears, as I saw some very-very tiny red flashes on the oil pressure lamp, i.e.: on turn 11 !!!!!
Quite scary, I really want an oil pressure gauge.

GVA-SFO

Winter time, ..time for next “mod”.
In the quest of some little additional ponies, I’m going to try that :



Opening the intake from 68mm to 74mm (if my maths are correct, this should offer 18.4% more surface), ..or more oxygen to burn !

Will see !