Macster

Ok. I was off today. Spent half the day at the doctor's office with my dad. He's ok (at 93) but he needed a check out nonetheless.

The other half day I spent at a Porsche dealer. Hey you can go to Disneyland if you want not me...

There are it appears two RF setups, one for servicing the key fob and its RFID pill and the other for servicing the key fob lock/unlock signaling feature.

BTW, that ring around the ignition switch where the key goes in?

Behind that is the RF antenna. It beams a focused RF signal to the RFID pill in the key fob which then energizes the RFID pill and causes it to transmit its ID and if this is received, processed, and found to be in the security module's ID look up table the engine starts/runs.

If the ignition switch was worked on/replaced recently this can have been damaged or not even hooked up connected to the car's wiring system.

Or it could have gotten damaged when the car got wet inside.

Also another reason the engine may not start is the RFID pill can be bad.

This I was told is very rare.

Only one tach has every encountered this before and he had a hint because he had a diagnostics computer connected to the car's security system and kept getting a negative response error from the security module when he tried to start the engine.

I have 3 keys for each of my cars. The few times the Boxster has not cranked I have tried all 3 keys to eliminate a bad RFID pill in the one key that failed to have the engine crank over. My thinking is while one might be bad all 3? No way! But if you only have the one key...

Smhube00

Thank you ver much

I have only one key. But I will check to see all the wires are connected and there is no corrosion

Looks like I have to take it to the dealer to eliminate the other potential issues

Smhube00

Okay guys here is what I did
I got a working alarm module, key , transceiver and dme from another car. Installed it in mine.
Car is still doing the same thing. I took the 15amp fuse on the alarm module out. When I turn the key car is doing everything it was doing before.

This is really puzzling.

Any ideas! This is driving me craze.

Smhube00

Finally I got the car to crank. I clean all the connectors at the alarm module.

It cranks now, equipment cluster works.

Still not starting.

How do I check whether the gas get to the engine?

Macster

Well, one way is to disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rails and aim the fuel line -- sometimes "extended" with a piece of clear gas line slipped/clamped on to the end -- into a bucket and then turn on the key and verify a stream of fuel come out of the fuel line.

However, I hate messing with fuel lines and fuel though for to state the obvious fuel is highly flammable (well its vapor is) and all it takes is a spark and ...

Then it seems fuel lines/connectors do not always take kindly to being bothered and leaks can arise after things are buttoned up.

If fuel doesn't flow it could be the fuel pump, lack of electrical power at the fuel pump, a bad relay or a bad fuse. Less likely though I suppose possible a bad ignition switch.

Smhube00

Hi guys
I finally go the car started and running
There were a lot f water in the fuel tank.

I get "oil light" and not enough oil pressure message

Does anybody know where is the engine oil pressure sensor is located ?

BigKraut

I believe that it is on the passenger side of the engine on the cylinder head just above the #1 cylinder.

Macster

Enough (any is what I hear from the techs) water in the fuel tank to affect the engine is rare, very rare.

(When the fuel pump in my 02 Boxster failed after IIRC around 200K miles the tech checked the tank floor and spotted no signs of any water and very little trash. The fuel pump housing the portion that holds the pump in place at the bottom of the tank and is at the lowest place in the gas tank showed no signs of having been in contact with any water either.)

I wonder instead of being left out in the rain the car is a flood car?

Anyhow, glad to read you found and fixed the starting problem. I never believed water in the tank could be the cause. But you eliminated just about everything else so that's about all that was left.

Smhube00

I got few more hurdles to jumps before I get the car in full operation mode

I am getting a miss fire on cylinder 6 per obdII reader

Error code is p0306 , I move the coil packs and plugs around and still get the same.

Any ideas ?

Second issue, when the car gets at running temperature ( radiator fans start working ) coolant leaks from the overfill tube in the back. Is the water pump bad ? Is there way to diagnose whether the water pump is bad

rennif

Going on what you said in your previous posts would you think there is any chance you caused engine damage due to trying to start the car with lots of water mixed in with the petrol?
I'd strip all the interior seats,trim,carpets etc and get the car in a warm garage to dry it out properly because it sounds like you could have a couple of issues so if you fully sort out the water issue properly you can move forward to hopefully get it running properly mechanically without the doubt of a wet dme or water causing misfires.
Just the way I'd tackle it but maybe there's a better way?
Hope you get to the bottom of it !!!

Macster

You've swapped coils/plugs around and the misfire stays put.

There is a slim chance there's an electrical connector problem at where the coil connects to the wiring harness.

If the connector is ok then that leaves the injector, at least outside the engine. Inside there is of course other things to consider.

Given what we know now about the car the water in the fuel might have damaged an injector.

The water leaking from I guess the bleeder valve is probably due to air in the cooling system.

There's a cheap way to test the t-stat. Start a cold engine and as it idles feel the radiator hoses connected to the water pump. When the t-stat opens you'll feel the hose or hoses get hot as the coolant starts to flow.

You have to stay sharp. You are under the car under the engine while it is running. Misjudge your reach for a hose and get a handful of water pump pulley or something else instead and it will ruin your day.

Smhube00

Thanks Macster,

I think I have a bigger problem !

Once I bled the lines, i fill the coolant res. agin.

I started the car then I notice that the white smoke coming out of the exhaust.

I turn the car off and star agin in few minutes , same plus coolant was coming it go the exhaust.

Then I check the oil dip stick, it was milky.

I guess this is not a good sign.

I am thinking he head gasket it blown .
Any thoughts

Macster

If you are not mistaking normal water vapor in the exhaust for "coolant", if there is liquid coolant coming from the exhaust or if there is a strong smell of anti-freeze in the exhaust gases then a head gasket leak is a possibility.

A cracked head or block are also possibilities.

Regardless avoid running the engine any more. Even turning it over with the starter is to be avoided.

But all may not be gloom and doom. I seem to recall from other posts there are freeze like plugs in the engine which can fail and let coolant and oil intermix to the point the oil looks like light mocha.

If you want to try to get a feel for the severity of the problem you can start with removing the plugs. If a head gasket is bad or a head cracked one (or more) cylinders will have signs of coolant in them. While you can see into the cylinder the plugs will tell the tale.

If the plugs are dry then the freeze plugs become a more likely explanation.

My guess is you are probably facing removing the engine and tearing it down to check bearings and fix what's wrong.

I recall at least one other person going through this -- the freeze plugs failed -- and even though the oil was full of water he cleaned up the engine and found the bearings ok and the engine basically sound and after he fixed the freeze plug the engine was ok.

Smhube00

Can I do the engine dropping by my self you think
Can I do it with put a lift , may be with jack stands

scotindallas