Boxsterhunting

Looking to put in an order for a 2013 when dealers start accepting. Know the base MSRP will be $49,500. Any idea how much below that I can expect dealers to go. Live in west central Florida. Have owned Vettes for more than 40 years. Still have a few. When I order them new, they have plenty of room to discount. Just not sure if Porsche dealers have much room to discount.

Thanks in advance for any help you offer.

smlporsche

My opinion is that with a major redesign like the 2013 you will not see much (if any) discount off of list right away.
Talk to several dealers and see what they are thinking. Are you anywhere near Brumos??

Macster

One technique -- which I've never tried -- is to offer the dealer something over "invoice" and below list.

How you open the discussion I'll leave to you. Your stand is that no way you're paying full price for a car the dealer orders and you pay for when it comes in.

There is no flooring cost, etc. Essentially the dealer is just taking your order and you're willing to pay him for that but nothing else.

The above can work, has worked (I've read) but you may have to work for it. Some have reported success in contacting a number of dealers and finding one that is willing to go along.

There are risks: Don't go overboard on the deposit. The bigger the deposit the more leverage the dealer has on you.

You need to be *darn* sure you have a firm agreed upon price. And not just a handshake price.

You need to have a deadline on when the car should arrive. Nothing to the nano second. If the dealer says the car will take 2 months, you can make the deadline say 4 months. Dealers are not immune to things out of their control (shipping strike) but if a dealer tells you it ordered the car and 6 months you find out somebody at the dealer forgot...(Or the car came in and the dealer sold it out from under you to a less tightfisted (I mean this in the nicest way!) buyer.)

Be sure the order is correct. And when the car comes in be sure you inspect the car very carefully to make sure the car agrees with the order. You can always refuse the car if say it comes with the wrong color (as long as you have an order invoice that lists the right color) but you can't refuse (though dealers are somewhat forgiving on this) if you changed your mind.

(I heard about one dealer who ordered a car for a customer, the car had radio and no A/C: Both were "deleted"; track car. (But no PCCBs!) The car came in and the customer had a change of heart. I was surprised to hear the dealer let the customer off the hook. (I can't recall now but the customer may have bought another car or ordered another car.) Regardless, the dealer is faced with a special order car that has at least one critical option (A/C) missing. I know cause I might have bought the car had it at least had an A/C.)

Sincerely

Macster.

Boxsterhunting

Are you anywhere near Brumos??

Never heard of that...where is it?

Macster...Thanks for the reply. That is the technique I use when ordering all my cars. Usually make a cash offer around invoice price. Then see what the dealer comes back with. Just was not sure it would work with the new Boxster. But, all a dealer can do is say no. I will try a few in my area around the Orlando and Tampa Bay area.

Thanks...

smlporsche

Jacksonville and one of the best dealers in the states...

http://brumosporsche.com/

Boxsterhunting

Live about 4 hours from Jacksonville. Will give them a call and see if they want to work a deal.

Thanks...

DOUGLAP1

In my experience, the way to get the best deal possible on any new vehicle from any dealer is to first make the dealer invest so much time in you that they don't want to see you walk out the door. This generally involves going into a dealer and "playing dumb" until you have spent considerable time with the sales person, and taken a couple of test drives, etc. If you just walk in and tell them up front that you want to make the best deal on X car, they have no time invested in you, and don't care if you walk or not.

sirtom

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but thought this may be the most relevant one.

What are people paying for 2013 Boxster S's (how much below MSRP or above invoice)?

Does euro delivery (which is now no cost) help one negotiate price any further?

zirrah

Anyone who makes an effort these days is getting about 4-5% off msrp. Invoice is 10% under roughly. So in reality 4-5% should be the minimum you should shoot for. 6-8% is the goal I'd say. This is on an ordered car.

rg654

I have been tasked by my husband to get the best deal I can on a Boxster I can with the following features: PDK, 19 inch wheels, infotainment and convenience package. In addition he wants a color that will be the additional 710. The question I have is, do people agree with zirrah that 6-8% is realistic to get over the next month or so. In addition, what do people think the percentage is for a car off the lot? What would you pay for the car attached at the link below? They haven't moved much on price for me. so far only 750 so if it were you would you just order one so you wouldn't have to deal with the 6,000 miles?

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1

Macster

For a new car I can't say. I've not dipped my toe into the new Boxster market in a while and I have no idea of what discounts dealers are offering on new Boxsters.

The car you are considering is used. This is a whole 'nother ball game.

First you want to be sure there is a warranty on the car. I'm not sure if the factory warranty still remains in effect if the car is sold by a non-Porsche dealer.

You need to know for sure. Call PCNA customer service and ask if the car will retain the remainder of its factory warranty. Get this faxed to you or somehow get it in writing. Maybe a local Porsche dealer can help you? Sweeten the request for help by letting the idea grow that if you buy this car you'll have it serviced at this dealer.

After you establish the warranty situation, then you want to make sure the car is worth owning at any price. It could be a bad car, lemon/buy back, damaged/repaired, and so on. Even though it is a nice looking low miles car it is always buyer beware when shopping a used car.

Even with the best warranty in the world you want to avoid buying a car that has a good chance of needing any warranty work.

As for price, since the car is used: Generally a car depreciates 10% from the dealer's cost of the car, which is roughly around 87% of the car's MSRP not including any delivery or additional dealer markup.

The car then depreciates another 10% every year after, when the next year's model comes out.

I do not know the MSRP of that car, but lets work some numbers:

Estimated MSRP: $62,000 * 0.87 = $53,940. This is the value of the car after it was driven off the lot say back in August of 2012.

Now the 2014 models are not here yet so the car may not have experienced another 10% depreciation.

But I believe the car could be bought for less than $57,277.

BTW, that car was offered at some point for $58388 and obviously didn't sell. This could be because the price too high, or there's something about the car?
Food for thought.

Paste the VIN into a google search and see what comes up.

If the car checks out and you want the car and you want an opening price to consider offer $53,00 for the car, then if that doesn't get accepted (and it won't) offer $53,250. If that doesn't get accepted and it won't, offer $53,375.

Walk. But lay the ground work that you have a number of cars lined up and you thought you'd try for this car first but if you can't reach an agreement on this car you have several 2nd choices, and will have bought one after you leave the lot.

Now the above is just some ideas. You have to do market research and establish market value. Could be the cars have depreciated a lot more. Or a lot less.

Also, you have to establish how much the car is worth to you. So you know how high you want to go. But you really need to limit the number of times you bump your offer and you cut back the amount you bump the offer by each time so you reach a stopping point and the dealer also can see where the stopping point is.

And before making an offer be sure, be darn sure, that the car is worth owning.

Remember there is always another car. And price is not fact only an opinion.

zirrah

Searches will show the average discount buyers are getting. Check in the 987-981 thread. And also at www.planet-9.com/981-chat/ , which is another great resource for Boxsters. But believe me, my homework is done. 4-5 is a good discount, but 6-8 is easily out there if you are willing to work for it.

rg654

so I think we are going to pass on the used one. The dealer we are working with has sent us a couple of build sheets (not sure if these are cars he has on the lot or has to trade with another dealer to get; he just said "this is what is out there right now") and the one we like is at 62,105. What do you think I should aim for in terms of a final price?

Macster

Some times the dealer will swap cars with another dealer. They exchange cars based on their cost of the car. No markup. The cost of transporting the cars is split between the two dealers.

At other times the car may not be at a dealer but at a holding lot. There is one, used to be one anyhow, down in AZ. There are others scattered across the USA, I believe, but I do not know their locations.

I was shopping for a new Boxster/Cayman in 09 and one salesman when I described what I was looking for found a good match with a car down in AZ and offered to have the car brought up at no obligation to me. I declined but I forget why now.

(Another time, years ago when shopping for a new car, and there was nothing on the lot a VW dealer found a good match to what I wanted at a VW lot in TX and had the car shipped from TX to KC Mo to this dealer's lot and I ended up buying this car.)

In terms of final price target, roughly, and probably obviously, as little over invoice as possible. Invoice is a hard to come by number but my research at the time had me settle on the invoice as being 87% of the car's MSRP. This is probably a reasonably good starting point.

But maybe not. Back in April of 09 I managed to buy a brand new 08 Cayman S for nearly 20% off MSRP. The car listed for $62.6K. I paid $50.6K.

How did I negotiate such a big discount?

I didn't. This is the discount the dealer was offering. The car had been on the dealer's lot since Dec of 2008 and he wanted to move the car. Now part of his incentive may have been the car's color: Speed Yellow with black leather interior. Didn't bother me. I like speed yellow Cayman S's especially when they are marked down by $12K.

zirrah

Nothing like catching the dealer with. a car that has been on their lot for a while. Invoice on 981's should be 10% from everything I've read. :-)