Do I remove the intake manifold to access change-over valves?
08-27-2009, 07:30 PM
#1
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Do I remove the intake manifold to access change-over valves?
Background: I have P0410&P1411 in my 99 boxster... and a friend and I traced down the vacuum hose coming out of the electric change-over valve is not vacuumed. I need to further inspect the hose and/or replace change-over valve.
Now: I need to access the air change-over valve and electric change-over and the vacuum hose.... how do I go about it? Do I take out the intake manifold? or is there any other way to do it? If I have to take out the intake manifold, how do I do it? I hope some one can give me some hints. Thanks.
Now: I need to access the air change-over valve and electric change-over and the vacuum hose.... how do I go about it? Do I take out the intake manifold? or is there any other way to do it? If I have to take out the intake manifold, how do I do it? I hope some one can give me some hints. Thanks.
08-28-2009, 09:34 AM
#2
In my 3.4 (which looks to be identical to the 2.5 for this operation) you indeed have to remove the intake. From memory(I've had to do it several times):
Put the hard tonneau cover in service position.
loosen clamps on intake bellows
Unhook wire to temp sensor mounted in intake
Unbolt engine ground strap (end by air pump)
Remove clamp and undo hose coming from air pump.
Unbolt intake and remove. On mine the front bolt has to be done from the acess panel behind the seats. I have found no way to do it other than with an open-end wrench a 1/16 turn at a time. If anybody has a trick for that bolt, let me know! Also, I have decided that it is easier to get the plastic intake out of there if you go ahead and remove the air pump, just 3 bolts.
stuff paper towels in the intake stacks to keep out unwanted, dropped nuts or clips.
It is fine to re-use the intake o-rings
You're in!
Curse the fact that while mid-engine design is optimal for driving dynamics - it sucks for engine access.
One thing to add to my earlier diagnostic write-up. You can test the electric vacuum valve with a 9V battery. Hooking it up while blowing through it will change from venting through the end to coming out the other nozzle. Make sure you put the vaccum lines on the same nozzles they came off, it only works one way.
Cheers
Randy
Put the hard tonneau cover in service position.
loosen clamps on intake bellows
Unhook wire to temp sensor mounted in intake
Unbolt engine ground strap (end by air pump)
Remove clamp and undo hose coming from air pump.
Unbolt intake and remove. On mine the front bolt has to be done from the acess panel behind the seats. I have found no way to do it other than with an open-end wrench a 1/16 turn at a time. If anybody has a trick for that bolt, let me know! Also, I have decided that it is easier to get the plastic intake out of there if you go ahead and remove the air pump, just 3 bolts.
stuff paper towels in the intake stacks to keep out unwanted, dropped nuts or clips.
It is fine to re-use the intake o-rings
You're in!
Curse the fact that while mid-engine design is optimal for driving dynamics - it sucks for engine access.
One thing to add to my earlier diagnostic write-up. You can test the electric vacuum valve with a 9V battery. Hooking it up while blowing through it will change from venting through the end to coming out the other nozzle. Make sure you put the vaccum lines on the same nozzles they came off, it only works one way.
Cheers
Randy
