Boxster alignment spec
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA, USA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Boxster alignment spec
Does anyone know the alignment spec of 2002 Boxster S? I searched the forum and web and didn't find the complete spec: ranges of camber, toe-in and caster, front and rear? I have the M030 sports suspension kit. Not sure if the alignment setting shall be affected as well.
Thank you!
Thank you!
#2
Burning Brakes
The basis alignment specs are on my web site under wheels or tires. No idea about the M030 and I'd be going to someone who really knows how to align a Boxster if I had mod'ed suspension parts. I always suggest someone who sets cars up for racing as they will know not only the Porsche specs but the effects of being on one edge or the other of the spec. Note that Porsche doesn't say "be this" but "be between this and that". And the difference can be increased handing or increased tire wear.
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA, USA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#5
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lesa, Italy & Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
RoW. how do you usually drive your car? the factory specs leave too much room for slop, IMO.
if it's primarily a street car & you drive in a 'spirited' fashion, setup should be as follows:
Front Camber: -0.7 degrees
Rear Camber: -1.6 degrees
Front Toe: 0.0
Rear Toe: 0.1 degrees total (this is 0.1 degrees toe IN)
caster should be 8 degrees, but is not adjustable. if you have one side of the car that is significantly different than 8 degrees, you will need to purchase a caster adjustable control arm to dial it in properly.
when you have it aligned, tell the guy to make sure that left / right are equal & request a printout that shows you the settings achieved.
if you do some track duty with this car, let us know so we can tell you how to better set it up.
if it's primarily a street car & you drive in a 'spirited' fashion, setup should be as follows:
Front Camber: -0.7 degrees
Rear Camber: -1.6 degrees
Front Toe: 0.0
Rear Toe: 0.1 degrees total (this is 0.1 degrees toe IN)
caster should be 8 degrees, but is not adjustable. if you have one side of the car that is significantly different than 8 degrees, you will need to purchase a caster adjustable control arm to dial it in properly.
when you have it aligned, tell the guy to make sure that left / right are equal & request a printout that shows you the settings achieved.
if you do some track duty with this car, let us know so we can tell you how to better set it up.
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA, USA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks insite, this is good information!
The car was multi-purpose (street/AX/track) before and it has ROW M030 for years. I decided recently to make it a dedicated AX/track car so it doesn't need to compromise.
One thing I noticed last year (when the car was still multi-purpose) was... both the front tires had significant wears on the outside even after I asked the dealer to adjust the camber to be more aggressive. I guess the dealer didn't (or didn't know how to) adjust the alignment according to different suspension and tire size. One thing I forgot to mention, the stock front tires are 205/50R17 and I am running 225/45/R17 instead (better grip and less under). The rear is still 255/40R17.
The car was multi-purpose (street/AX/track) before and it has ROW M030 for years. I decided recently to make it a dedicated AX/track car so it doesn't need to compromise.
One thing I noticed last year (when the car was still multi-purpose) was... both the front tires had significant wears on the outside even after I asked the dealer to adjust the camber to be more aggressive. I guess the dealer didn't (or didn't know how to) adjust the alignment according to different suspension and tire size. One thing I forgot to mention, the stock front tires are 205/50R17 and I am running 225/45/R17 instead (better grip and less under). The rear is still 255/40R17.
Last edited by lolayay; 02-27-2009 at 05:47 PM.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lesa, Italy & Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
ok, so now that we know it's an auto-x / track car, how much is auto-x and how much is track? are you looking for a compromise setup, or setups specific to each application? finally, and this is critical, what type of tires will you be running?
Trending Topics
#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA, USA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's funny to hear even a dedicated AX+Track setup being a comprise ;-) Yes, one setup for both occasions are good.
The car might attend (I will attend too of course ) 5-10 AX's and 1-5 track weekends a year (planning to although reality might be different). I am using Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 (225/45R17 & 255/40R17). I've been seeking Sport Cup but they don't have my tire sizes (called TireRack to confirm Michelin don't manufacture those sizes for Sport Cup).
The car might attend (I will attend too of course ) 5-10 AX's and 1-5 track weekends a year (planning to although reality might be different). I am using Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 (225/45R17 & 255/40R17). I've been seeking Sport Cup but they don't have my tire sizes (called TireRack to confirm Michelin don't manufacture those sizes for Sport Cup).
#9
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lesa, Italy & Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
ok; with the PS2, run:
-1.0deg camber up front
-1.9dec camber in back
0 toe up front
0 toe in back (just a SMIDGEON of toe in, but basically zero)
you will love the car like this. also, try running tire pressures even front to rear. i recommend 39 hot at the track (start around 33) and 37 cold at auto-x.
-1.0deg camber up front
-1.9dec camber in back
0 toe up front
0 toe in back (just a SMIDGEON of toe in, but basically zero)
you will love the car like this. also, try running tire pressures even front to rear. i recommend 39 hot at the track (start around 33) and 37 cold at auto-x.
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA, USA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Insite, thanks so much !! I'll bring the info to the mechanics.
Mikefocke, your website has loads of great Boxster info!
Mikefocke, your website has loads of great Boxster info!
Last edited by lolayay; 03-04-2009 at 02:52 PM.
#11
2nd Gear
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PSS9 camber settings
I just received a set of PSS9s for my 2002 Boxster S. I intend to set up the car for the track. I'm somewhat in doubt if I can acheive the neg front-end camber I'll need after lowering ~1.5 inches with the stock camber plates. I can spring for a full set of Tarett camber plates but would like to avoid it since I've already blown the budget on the PSS9s. Thoughts anyone?
#12
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lesa, Italy & Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
you can get some schnell camber plates fairly cheap (NEVER MIND; looks like they're discontinued!). if you lower 1.5", you should be able to get about -1.8 deg static camber up front with the factory mounts. w/ slicks, you'll probably want a little bit more, but it's not like you'll be WAY off spec w/o the camber plates.
#13
2nd Gear
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the info. I'll proceed with the PSS9s with factory camber plates. I'd also located the Schnell plates and they are considerably cheaper. Too bad they've been discontinued. We need some less expensive hardware out there. Since I have the equipment, if it turns out that I need more adjustment I will try my hand at making my own plates. The spherical thrust bearings are available from McMaster Carr for about $50 each. The rest is just easy machining of aircraft grade aluminum (also available from MC), though I might go with steel plates for bullet-proof strength and a tig welded bearing pocket. Shouldn't take more than a few hours on the milling machine and lathe and I'll have the satisfaction of doing it myself and saving $1K for both front and rear plates. I'm also thinking the designs I've seen could be improved with a fixed plate with a milled slot holding the spherical bearing and a set of opposed horizontal jacking screws to position the bearing in the slot for easy change over from road to track camber settings with a screw driver. Who knows, if the design works out I might put them on the market myself and offer everyone a cheaper yet better option than what's out there now.
#14
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lesa, Italy & Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
as a cheap alternative, you can mill out the camber slots on the strut towers. i think you can also install the strut top mounts sixty degrees off & get more camber. if you look at the top of the OEM mounts, there are arrows. these are supposed to point along the car. if you twist them so they're pointing across the car, i have heard you can get a bit more static neg. i have not personally verified the second idea.
#15
Rennlist Member
Got my alignment done today at Roger Kraus Racing for my '99 Boxster, I was able to get -1.0 deg with little twist on the strut mount. My car have stock US suspensions.
Here is my alignment spec:
Front
Camber: -1.0 deg
Toe: 0
Rear
Camber: -1.5 deg
Toe: 0
The car is much more spirited now. It handles the way a sport car suppose to be, no more understeer, turn-in is quick and willing to rotate in middle of corner. I love the way it drive now!
Here is my alignment spec:
Front
Camber: -1.0 deg
Toe: 0
Rear
Camber: -1.5 deg
Toe: 0
The car is much more spirited now. It handles the way a sport car suppose to be, no more understeer, turn-in is quick and willing to rotate in middle of corner. I love the way it drive now!