anders44

Hi, I can feel a slightly jolt like engine/tranny/something is moving/has slack if i accelerate and go off pedal and engine is brakeing, same if i then accelerate again, seller mentioned it might be tranny mounts, tried searching around, but a bit unsure what its called on theese models, any pointers to searchwords/threads on the subject would be good.

and is it common that the shifter is a bit "sloppy"? I've driven a lot of 987 boxster and cayman S, and both have none of thise, but hey, this is a 10 year old car, perhaps a bushing to buy, or something to adjust?

aron in toronto

Sounds like a bad front motor mount. They are known to fail and cause the issues you describe. The mount is relatively inexpensive and can be a DIY project, depending on your skills.
Here is a link to a site that offers remanufactured motor mounts as well as some good advice regarding the issues you described.
http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site/Technolab.html

anders44

thanks, I have a car lift, air tools and everything, and skills is over average I'd say (hope)

I'll just do it when I pull the engine/tranny for clutch/MRS ++

the remanufactured thing is great, to bad I'm in norway so shipping and handeling kills the deal hehe. new porsche OE mounts are fairly cheap though, a lot cheaper than tranny mounts as well.

kinda just got the car yesterday, so trying to figure out the ins & outs. power is bad, but handeling is very good.

judd944

I have noticed that too. I will have to check the front motor mount. is there a way to inspect it? any visual cues that it is bad?

Macster

at rubber inside mount housing. Look for cracks in rubber. (Shine or have someone shine light from back side of mount. This can highlight cracks that you may not spot with light at side you're looking at.)

You might have to remove the plastic panel that spans distance across front of engine and covers the front of engine, engine mount, and some accessory drives.

Sincerely,

Macster.

judd944

will do, thanks Macster.

amondc

You dont have to pull the engine for the RMS just put a post jack underneath or a bar across the top and hook to the loop that is on the engine. Then you can drop the trans and its a little easier. I would replace the oil seperator while the trans is out because its a 10 min job vs a 1.5 hr job with the trans in. The part is about 100$ us.

Chris

anders44

thanks for the tips on the tranny drop though, thoose things are always good to have when working on new cars I haven't had engine/tranny out on before.

I finally managed get the car-lift in position inside the garage yesterday.. so we are getting closer! spent 3-4 hours to make it move 16 feet. damn thing is 1800lbs. we had a huge truck with crane, and a forklift, still it took forever. was a bit over the top exciting when the brake hit the truck in a slight jolt and let the thing go...