dak911

Anyone have an engine that has been replaced.
I am interested in buying your old engine...no rods through the block...just valve damage, piston damage...basically something I can rebuild.

Macster

good engines are not yanked and replaced. There are exceptions, but there are far more engines pulled that are sick sick sick and once pulled it is hard ot know if they are rebuildable.

If you get the engine cheap enough that helps.

If you can get a warranty that says the engine runs that's even better, but you'll have to go through the trouble of installing it first into a car and getting it to run.

If you can hook a battery up to the starter motor and use the starter motor to crank the engine fast enough to get a good compression check on all cylinders.

Remove all plugs (naturally) and then with just one cylinder with the compression test fitting screwed in the spark plug hole you might even be able to crank the engine fast enough with a powerful electric drill motor, though you'll have to come up with some electric motor to engine drive adapter.

If you can crank engine you can then not only check compression, listen for distressing sounds, and even -- this worth sorting out if you can -- taking an oil pressure reading, ideally from several locations (as many as you can).

Check the plugs too when you pull them. Look for differences in deposits. A real clean one may be clean because of a coolant leak, the water acting to steam clean the plug. One with a lot of oil may be from a cylinder with bad/broke rings, or worse. One with alot of carbon or gasoline smell from a cylinder with a leaking injector, or burned valves.

If you can get ahold of a nice scope that you can insert into each cylinder to view piston top, cylinder wall condition, etc, even better.

Drop the filter housing and look for metal in filter element (or a real clean filter that the seller might have replaced to hide the metal debris!). Run your finger down inside housing. Feel for grit. Pour oil out of housing into clean container. Look for any metal sheen from the oil. Look too for water droplets, though unlikely.

If you can get away with it, drain oil -- into pristine pan -- and look at oil. New/fresh oil is suspect. Check for metal, sheen, coolant/water in oil. Use the clean large funnel to put the oil back in the engine. Don't forget to replace the drain plug and show the person you care by replacing drain plug washer with new one.

If you can remove the camshaft covers. Check for any metal under the covers. Check for any metal at the intake screens of the scavenge pumps.

If you can remove the engine oil sump cover, that's good too.

Look engine over. Are the various intake bolts, camshaft cover bolts, all bolts untouched or has somebody been in the engine before you? If so, why? Did they reject the engine? Or has someone tried to rebuild/salvage the engine and found it not worthy?

Ideally, you would want an engine that is running and in a car that you can as thoroughly as you can check the engine out.

Sincerely,

Macster.

aron in toronto

Try here
http://www.coolGREENcar.net
or
search for user/member tholyoak. He is selling several motors w/ various problems.

Porsche993toy

dak911:

In approx. 1 week, the complete engine core from my 2000 Boxster "S" 3.2 6-speed will be up for sale. The intermediate shaft went out on the engine, therefore, I am swapping it out for another one.

If you or anyone else are interested in the core, drop me an email with your best offer. The core is located in Los Angeles near LAX Airport, but I will ship it anywhere in the U.S. at the buyers expense.

Thanks