Replacement of plastic window?
02-28-2008, 11:09 AM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,877
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replacement of plastic window?
Has anyone here replaced just the plastic window on their Boxster? For the first time, I left my Boxster in the driveway all night, and some assclown put four BBs through my plastic window.
02-28-2008, 11:57 PM
#4
Advanced
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NEW YORK
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IF YOU CONSIDER YOURSELF MECHANICALLY INCLINED THE BOXTER TOP IS PRETTY EASY TO REPLACE. AND GAHH OFFERS A SEWN IN REAR PLASTIC WINDOW. I WOULDNT GO FOR THE GLASS BECAUSE IT MAKES IT ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCESS THE ENGINE..
03-03-2008, 12:29 AM
#6
Intermediate
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA, USA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I replaced mine top last year with GAHH, the whole top and changed from plastic to glass. I won't worry about engine. You access from the bottom anyway. I asked an interior shop recommended by my dealer for the installation. They reasonably changed me for 3 hours of labor :-) It's tough to do it yourself because of tools/labor. One more advantage of glass vs plastic: you can add wiring to the glass to defog, very convenient.
Trending Topics
03-08-2008, 08:22 AM
#8
Intermediate
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA, USA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-14-2008, 01:52 AM
#10
Intermediate
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Freeport, New York
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Steve:
Another option to consider would be to remove the entire convertible top with frame mechanism and bring it to an upholsterer to have the vinyl window sewn in.
It save a lot on the labor and also saves on the possible wear and tear on the canvas from stripping and re-installing.
The procedure for removing and re-installing the complete top with the mechanism is very simple and takes less than one half hour each way.
If you are interested in going this route, let me know and I'll dig up a DIY.
Regards, Maurice.
Another option to consider would be to remove the entire convertible top with frame mechanism and bring it to an upholsterer to have the vinyl window sewn in.
It save a lot on the labor and also saves on the possible wear and tear on the canvas from stripping and re-installing.
The procedure for removing and re-installing the complete top with the mechanism is very simple and takes less than one half hour each way.
If you are interested in going this route, let me know and I'll dig up a DIY.
Regards, Maurice.
03-15-2008, 08:57 PM
#12
Intermediate
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Freeport, New York
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fred:
It's not difficult to remove and re-install the old top with its mechanism, and there is no comparison between that job and replacing the canvas top. After you have your old top off you can take your old top to an upholsterer to sew in a new vinyl window (should cost between $100 to $200 if you bring them the top and re-install it yourself). That will also give you time to decide whether you later want to "upgrade" to a glass-windowed top, without having to rush into it.
Here is how to proceed:
1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel ***** at the base of the cables. Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel ***** that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later. I have attached a photo, where the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer. The yellow arrow shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must be removed (see step #3 below)
2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.
3. Unbolt the 3 large bolts that are visible on the backside of top frame, looking under the rear of the B-Pillar while the top is in the service mode. Some Boxsters have a plastic box covering these three bolts, and this plastic box comes off with removal of two Phillips screws. The large bolts are self-centering, so it will not be difficult to re-install them in the correct position. The top, with the mechanism attached is still very light, but it is a little bulky, so you might want to have someone help you lift it off.
4. Once the 3 bolts on each side (left and right) have been removed, just slide the top back about one inch and then lift it straight up.
That's all there is to it.
(Note: The B-Pillar Microswitch instructions apply only to MY97-MY00. Some MY00 and all later Boxsters have that microswitch moved to the passenger side transmission. Take a look in that area before pulling the roof with frame completely off to see if you have to disconnect anything there.)
You might do just as well finding a boat upholstery shop depending on how much you want to spend.
Good Luck! If you have any other questions or something above is not clear, let me know and I'll do my best to clear it up.
Regards, Maurice.
It's not difficult to remove and re-install the old top with its mechanism, and there is no comparison between that job and replacing the canvas top. After you have your old top off you can take your old top to an upholsterer to sew in a new vinyl window (should cost between $100 to $200 if you bring them the top and re-install it yourself). That will also give you time to decide whether you later want to "upgrade" to a glass-windowed top, without having to rush into it.
Here is how to proceed:
1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel ***** at the base of the cables. Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel ***** that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later. I have attached a photo, where the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer. The yellow arrow shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must be removed (see step #3 below)
2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.
3. Unbolt the 3 large bolts that are visible on the backside of top frame, looking under the rear of the B-Pillar while the top is in the service mode. Some Boxsters have a plastic box covering these three bolts, and this plastic box comes off with removal of two Phillips screws. The large bolts are self-centering, so it will not be difficult to re-install them in the correct position. The top, with the mechanism attached is still very light, but it is a little bulky, so you might want to have someone help you lift it off.
4. Once the 3 bolts on each side (left and right) have been removed, just slide the top back about one inch and then lift it straight up.
That's all there is to it.
(Note: The B-Pillar Microswitch instructions apply only to MY97-MY00. Some MY00 and all later Boxsters have that microswitch moved to the passenger side transmission. Take a look in that area before pulling the roof with frame completely off to see if you have to disconnect anything there.)
You might do just as well finding a boat upholstery shop depending on how much you want to spend.
Good Luck! If you have any other questions or something above is not clear, let me know and I'll do my best to clear it up.
Regards, Maurice.
01-04-2016, 05:23 PM
#14
2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.
Thanks a LOT
01-04-2016, 06:09 PM
#15
Intermediate
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Freeport, New York
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are a couple of photos that should help you, after you locate the semi-cylyndrical carpet-covered panel (which is directly behind your left shoulder as you sit in the driver's seat and which covers one of the base legs of the roll bar).
Note that when the carper-covered panel is installed, you can barely see the phillips head screw, as it is hidden under the pile of the carpet.
The two fasteners shown in the photographs are the only two that must be handled to remove the panel (loosen the bolt and remove the screw).
Regards, Maurice.
Note that when the carper-covered panel is installed, you can barely see the phillips head screw, as it is hidden under the pile of the carpet.
The two fasteners shown in the photographs are the only two that must be handled to remove the panel (loosen the bolt and remove the screw).
Regards, Maurice.
