fab

I'm having a hard time removing the wire connector clip from the MAF sensor. Is there a clip release? Do I use a screw driver. I tried pulling it off but that didn't work.
How did you guys do it?

AlpharettaRK

IIRC you squeeze the 2 tabs at the ends (small sides) to release the clips as you pull it out. No tools

perfectlap

I cleaned this with CRC a couple of weeks and I couldn't figure out how to un-couple the thing either.
I ended up just spraying the thing over some shop towels to let the dirt drip out. No problems or CEL afterwards.

Turboflyer

CRC is OK for the body, but make sure you use MAF sensor safe solvent for the MAF sensor.

fab

Perfectlap,I did that as well but not as lucky as you are. My CEL came back time to replace MAF, ugh. Part cost from Pelican $299. cha cha ching.....

chris_in_nh

what makes you think that the MAF is bad? i can't tell you how many people replace their MAFs only to find out that it didn't fix the problem. save your money and find the cause of the problem. then spend money.

since you were having trouble removing the MAF wiring harness, you can use a pair of pliers/channel locks to apply more pressure to the side tabs.

do you have a CEL? are you getting fault codes - what are they? you can go to any AutoZone or PepBoys and borrow their code reader (for free) to read your codes. until you know the codes, you are just guessing. and even WITH the codes, you'll still need to determine exactly what they mean - and i don't mean looking up what the codes mean for their 'definition'.

is your car running badly? i'm curious to know what makes you think it's the MAF.

the easiest test you can do is to unplug the wiring harness from the MAF (do not remove the actual MAF from the intake tube!), then disconnect the neg cable from the battery for at least 1 minute to reset the DME/ECU. (make sure you have your radio code if your radio needs one). then, after at least a minute, reconnect the neg battery cable. this will reset your Check Engine Light in the process as well as reset the DME/ECU to erase prior MAF values from the system. start the car and see if it runs better than before. (running the car without the MAF for a short or extended period will not hurt your car/engine.) if your car runs better without the MAF, then the MAF is probably bad. if you want to test it again, plug the MAF wiring harness back into the MAF, do the neg battery cable remove/reattach again, and see if the car runs crappy again.

at that point, you could either try cleaning the MAF or replacing it. i believe that www.AutohausAZ.com currently has the cheapest prices on MAFs.

but really, before you spend any money, find out what's wrong. guessing can be very expensive. please let me know the answers to my questions above about codes/rough running and we'll see if we can figure it out.

fab

chris-
codes that I was getting was 1128 and 1130. I cleaned the MAF reset CEL light and codes came back. I did not unplug my MAF to see if this is the culprit. I know I should but i didn't.
I ordered a new MAF from pelican because autohaus does not carry my part number. I installed it and I'm hoping I don't see a CEL. So far so good but I really haven't had a chance to take it out for a long ride.

What I did notice when I opened up my engine compartment was some grime on my oil filler tube, see pic. I would like to address this.
How does one replace this tube? Does anyone know the part number?
How do I know if my a/os seperator needs to be replaced? Will it be visible? Where should I be looking?