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wheel bearing replacement

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Old 06-14-2007, 02:00 PM
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stumpjumper
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Default wheel bearing replacement

assuming I have the bearing puller, and am mechanically competent, how hard and long a job is this on a boxster? the bearings look to be sealed so I assume I just buy a new one instead of repairing and repacking the old one

pelican has the puller for about $230 and the bearings for about $70

for what it's worth, symptoms are speed related whirring from rear, gets louder on left hand turns, quiet on right hand turns, so I suspect passenger side rear wheel bearing

oh, would it be worth replacing both while I'm at it?
Old 06-14-2007, 02:42 PM
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Drew_K
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Definitely sounds like a wheel bearing. Personally, I would only replace the bad one. Although the other rear bearing may not be far behind, the job isn't trivial and the other rear may last another few years.
Old 06-14-2007, 09:51 PM
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HHPorscheTech
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Yes the wheel bearings are a double roller bearing sealed and when they fail they are in need of replacement. Typically I only replace the bad bearing, what you can do is lift the rear of the car of the ground and spin the rear wheel you are concerned about and hold onto the spring of the strut if you feel a grinding in the spring..its the wheel bearing transfering the vibration up the strut housing. Do the same thing to the opposite side to check for sure.
The replacement is straight forward, with the help of a puller/installer. I am not sure what the Pelican one is selling, but make sure it will install also. Also, check to make sure that it has an attachment to pull and install the hub. If you have any questions don't hesitate to email
Old 06-15-2007, 01:51 PM
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thanks,

it does install and removal, so I bought that and the bearing this morning after I popped the car up on a jack stand last night and spun it in neutral, felt and heard the snagging on for sure on the passenger side, should be a fun little project
Old 06-17-2007, 08:49 PM
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after looking at the bentley manual I'm having 2nd thoughts, it has you remove the entire wheel carrier, and the underneath support structure which isn't something I can really do in my garage (small 1 car)

is there a trick to doing it with the wheel carrier still installed and leaving the cv joint in? I'd rather not have to repack those and that's worth it to me to pay to have done
Old 06-17-2007, 10:13 PM
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You don't need to remove the carrier if you have the correct tool. Remove the drive axle, rotor, etc until you get down to the hub. Press the bearing out, press the bearing in. The cv axles have caps on them, you won't have to repack anything. Nor will you even get greasy.
Old 06-18-2007, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by PorscheDoc
You don't need to remove the carrier if you have the correct tool. Remove the drive axle, rotor, etc until you get down to the hub. Press the bearing out, press the bearing in. The cv axles have caps on them, you won't have to repack anything. Nor will you even get greasy.
awesome, the pelican kit promises that, but the bentley manual worried me! it has you remove so much stuff you'll need an alignment for sure afterward!
Old 06-18-2007, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by stumpjumper
awesome, the pelican kit promises that, but the bentley manual worried me! it has you remove so much stuff you'll need an alignment for sure afterward!
The Bently manual is a fine book to have, but I have found that checking in with the guys here and/or on www.renntech.org/forums can save you a lot of time and sweat. Some one here has always done pretty much anything you could come up against, and are always willing to clue you in on the short cuts.
Old 06-18-2007, 10:08 AM
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HHPorscheTech
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Yep with the right kit it can be removed on the car, I never remove wheel carriers anymore. Porsche was nice enough to supply us with a hydraulic tool for Cayenne wheel bearings that I retro fitted for the sports cars, its a hydraulic cylinder that is hollow!! Thanks Porsche
Old 06-19-2007, 11:35 AM
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so, the hub nut needs 348ft/lbs of torque?

that's an expensive wrench

Last edited by stumpjumper; 06-19-2007 at 01:49 PM.
Old 06-19-2007, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by stumpjumper
so, the hub nut needs 348ft/lbs of torque?

that's an expensive wrench
nah. that's just a 175lb man standing on a 2ft breaker bar. don't forget the loctite.
Old 06-19-2007, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by insite
nah. that's just a 175lb man standing on a 2ft breaker bar. don't forget the loctite.
damn, I would have

blue or red?
Old 06-19-2007, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by stumpjumper
damn, I would have

blue or red?
NOT RED.
Old 06-19-2007, 04:26 PM
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yeah, i kinda just realized that was a 500 degree break, not a good idea
Old 06-20-2007, 04:39 PM
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Yep 340 ft lbs ...lol


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