to address that right off. At least you need a system that keeps pressure and supply sufficient during high-g cornering conditions.

Additionally, adding extra scavage pumps at those ends of the heads that lack them would be a good step to keep oil from pooling at these locations under extreme cornering/braking.

RMS leaks can be aggravated by high rpms because word is the Boxster engine crank is not rigid enough and the flywheel end moves around leading to accelerated seal wear.

At least one after market engine builder adds an external main bearing to the back end of the Boxster engine to help control/limit this movement.

Barring that step, I'd be sure to run a very well-balanced flywheel/pressure plate assembly to minimize any crank end whip/wiggle/wobble...

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

looks like alot of car for 20 g's... i agree, lose the headlight thingys...
Nice, good luck

 

Domenico,
If the new motor is a Porsche reman motor than it will always be better than the original that came out in respect to problems that happened to early motors. Porsche's reman engines are often the most current version with all updated parts for the engine class. Porsche as a company is always improving their product. Porsche is not going to keep installing engines with same old problems over and over just to satify that client. That is a temparary fix for bigger problem. Since they are always updating there cars your new engine will have all the best most up to date fixes availible.
As for rear main seals, Porsche's will always have an issue with this due to the engine design. It is a split case block that is horizontaly opposed. Every revolution of the crank shaft is trying to push the two halves apart. It is very hard to make that seal perfect. The turbos and GT3 use the stronger old block out of the 993's and gt1 race cars which we see much less RMS leaks than we do in the N/A engines in the 996,997, 986,987s. As i tell clients, its a Porsche, its just marking its territory.

 

it has noithing to do with the split case, air cooled cars used split cases as well, every engine in every car has a split there. i would say most of the issues come from the lack of a bearing at the rear of the crank, combined with the loading from the input shaft casues the crank to move around and the seal to leak. but we have also ahd ims leaks and through bolt leaks and those are just poor materail and manufacter issues

 

just my two cents, if you plan to keep it long term and intend to whip it at autocross and track days its a good price for low miles. If you plan to sell it within two years you may be taking a larger than average hit on resale.
If you are planning to to drive it competitively you'll need a set of 17"or 18" wheels. Race rubber on 19" is expensive and the options are few. Also if its on wheel spacers hard driving can damage your wheel bearings which are $600.... a piece. I'd recommend some 18" Carrera replicas which are a little heavier than factory but half the cost.

 

I thought the BoxsterSpecRacing series limited you to 17" wheels.. cost containment you know Have fun with the new car!