Anthony DiBernardo

There is a constant drain of 4.5 Amps. This was the case even after all fuses were pulled one at a time, there was no drop in the meter reading.

Additionally, when the key is turned to on, there was a drop to 2.5 amps, which does not seem right. Shouldn't the amp drain increase when more systems (Interior lights etc) come on line?

The problem began when lights were left on for extended period of time. The battery is new.

Macster

Even if a new battery, wet cell batteries do not like being discharged. They typically do not recover fully.

How much they lose from this experience varies. Some batteries lose little, and if you happen to recharge them in the right way (some seem to like a fast/hard recharge, some like it slow/easy) they can recover *almost* to their before condition. They might at most lose 5% or 10%.

If the battery's the other way though, and if you happen to choose/guess wrong on the recharge, the battery could be ruined. It will lose too much capacity/reserve and essentially be useless.

Bottom line is even though the battery *was* new before being drained, and even if you recharged it, it may no longer be suitable for use in the vehicle.

Given the cost/difficulty of trouble-shooting electrical gremlins, I'd be inclined to toss the battery and replace it with a quality new one, to remove the battery from the equation. (Dare I mention it, though, even a new battery might be bad. It is rare, but not unknown. Still, the odds are in your favor...)

And don't leave the lights on!

Mind you follow the guidelines for disconnecting/removing/replacing the battery too.

Sincerely,

Macster.

99firehawk

start baisc how are you meauring draw?

Anthony DiBernardo

I used an amp meter connected to the battery terminal.

99firehawk

you are unhooking the battery cable and running it trhough the meter right

94twin

Your battery is not the problem. 4.5A is substantial - somewhere there is 60 watts of *heat* being dissipated from this load. This amount of current draw is about equal to a solenoid stuck on, or a small motor (possibly a seat motor). The window/top motors will stall at more than 4.5A, so that's probably not it, but don't count them out. Cigarette lighter stuck on? Any aftermarket stuff in the car? Amps, etc?

Might be helpful to see if anything is *not* working properly.

I would pull the relays one by one next.

Schnell!

Is there a visible electrical connection on the fuse box for +12V? If so, disconnect it there.

Disconnect the alternator as well, as I've diagnosed a bad one myself before.

Also, as others have said, look at the ignition switch.

Dave Howerdel

Hook up you ammeter(in series) at the battery and start pulling fuses till the culprit is found. Shouldn't be that difficult to find the circuit. At least this points to a defective/stuck relay that is drawing a constant, diagnosable load as opposed to a dead short that would be blowing fuses and wreaking havoc on the wiring.

As a side note, on one of my 928s, I had a draw of about 4A that turned out to be the clutch on the AC compressor.

Anthony DiBernardo

99firehawk,

Yes, I am unhooking the battery and running it through the meter.

Additionally, now the windows do not go up or down on the car. The cigarette lighter does not work anymore either.

Where can I find the relays?

Thanks to everyone for your responses. This is very frustrating.

99firehawk

CIG LIGHTER AND windows run thorugh fuses no relays for them, there are relays above the fuse panel and in the the dirver side rear trunk