These codes were read off of my OBD II reader and then cleared after,P1123 and P1125. I have driven the car for 100 miles since I cleared it and the light has not come back on. The car was hesitating when I went to gun it while the CEL light was on,and it still hesitates rarely after I cleared the CEL light. It does not hesitate often,its rare,I'd say once every 50 miles. Iam planning on attempting to clean my MAF on Wed. hoping that it cleares the issue up,at that time I will take a look at my K & N air filter to see what shape that is in. If that does not work I will order a new MAF(non e-gas,$246.77 from Autohaus Arizona) anyway because mine has 53,000 on it and I have heard that they can be faulty.
Here is a link to the MAF I will order if needed,is this a good price? ( I beleive it is the top one)
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...20Mass%20Sensor
and if I must order the new MAF I will install a Mahle Air Filter as well instead of re-oiling the K & N.
If I redo the MAF and air filter and the problem is still there what else could it be?

 

Those are idle lean codes for both cylinder banks. I don't see how a clogged air filter can cause this.

Check your fuel pressure at idle and WOT and post your results. Also post your vacuum readings at idle. When was the last time you checked (or replaced) your fuel filter?

Don't be so quick to condemn your MAF without doing a proper diagnosis. Don't throw parts at a problem.

EDIT: Also post your measurement for fuel pump flow rate. And measure MAF output voltage at idle. This is on pin 5 (wht/blk wire) on the MAF connector.

 

I would check my readings,if I knew how to.
Today I cleaned the MAF and took a look at the K & N Air Filter which was pretty dirty,Iam replacing it with a Mahle paper filter shortly.
I have driven my Boxster 10 miles with no problems and the car idles better,around 100 RPM lower now. If the CEL light comes on again or there is still hesitation then I will post back with a update.

 

The CEL light came on again today,same codes P1123 and P1125. The funny thing is,the car is running the best it has. Any recommendations on what to do?

 

Run the tests I stated in my earlier post. If you don't know how, either take it to a competant tech or study your repair manual.

There is also a slight chance your fuel filter may be clogged. When was the last time you changed it?

 

The car still has the original fuel filter at 53k miles,so it is possible. When you say to check my repair manual are you referring to the Bentley,which I do not have?

 

Either that or the factory repair PDF that's floating around.

I would say the fuel filter is past its prime, whether that is the source of the problematic codes or not.

EDIT: The factory recommends the fuel filter to be replaced at 60K miles. It wouldn't be totally out of the question to change the filter and see if the codes go away.

 

Thanks stuvx,I will be picking up a multi-meter in the next couple of says to check the output voltage at idle(I could use one anyways). Either of these would work correct?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
or
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

Just incase I can not find the factory PDF to check the output voltage on the MAF can tell me how? Do I just use the "pins" from the multi-meter and touch the 5th pin on the MAF connector? Does the car have to be running,idling or turned over etc.?

And regarding my fuel filter,I will be setting up a appointment with Jimmy from Mobile Porsche Works to change my fuel filter,bleed my brakes and change my brake pads in the next few weeks.

 

You have to use a meter that has atleast 20Mohm (or higher) internal resistance. I don't know anything about those meters.

As far as the PDF goes, I will not help you with that. But you might search other boxster boards that have more relaxed policies concerning that sort of stuff.

 

I was advised to disconnect the MAF and start up the car and see if I could get other codes to come on related to the MAF besides the O2 sensor codes. The car started up and I went to back it out of the driveway and codes P0102 and P0112 came on. Not the other codes,sounds like a bad MAF may be the culprit. Does this make sense?

 

That is a half-a** diagnostic method at best. You have to measure output voltage and compare against calibration specs for ANY sensor. The factory manual gives a spec for idle, but nothing else. Check output at idle and post your results.

Those two codes are for MAF and IAT (Intake Air Temperature) signal low, which is to be expected when the car is run with the MAF disconnected.

 

Do not worry I will still be picking up the mulit-meter and checking the output voltage. I will post results.

 

Interesting if he still is looking for the multi-meter since 14 years later still no results

 

16 years and still waiting...!