Warranty troubles: RMS & Plastic Rear Window
#1
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Well it looks like Porsche is trying to screw me to the tune of $700 for a new rear window on my 2001 Boxster S. I know I have seen many people here reporting that they have had plastic rear windows replaced under warranty when they become cloudy or opaque. I can't believe they would try to pull this when it's been a known issue, something they have replaced for other owners, and arguable the chief reason they switched to a glass rear window in 02 (or was it 03). If anyone that's had a plastic rear window replaced under warranty would be willing to help me out - could you please shoot me an email at bhankey@gmail.com and let me know the following:
Year model of car
When your plastic rear window was replaced under warranty
Which dealer did the work
I think if I can just gather a list of several other owners that got them replaced under warranty they won't have a leg to stand on in denying my claim.
There's another wrinkle, it appears I have the dreaded RMS leak. They're talking about installing a new "updated seal" rather than a new engine. What do I need to know and what should I be aware of? I know many people that just had the seals replaced rather than a new engine (and even some that had a new engine) had the RMS problem happen over and over. My car is about to go out of warranty within about 2 weeks (for time not mileage, only 21k miles). Is there anything I can or should due to ensure I'm protected if the new or repaired engine fails within a short period of time yet after my warranty expires?
Thanks much in advance.
Year model of car
When your plastic rear window was replaced under warranty
Which dealer did the work
I think if I can just gather a list of several other owners that got them replaced under warranty they won't have a leg to stand on in denying my claim.
There's another wrinkle, it appears I have the dreaded RMS leak. They're talking about installing a new "updated seal" rather than a new engine. What do I need to know and what should I be aware of? I know many people that just had the seals replaced rather than a new engine (and even some that had a new engine) had the RMS problem happen over and over. My car is about to go out of warranty within about 2 weeks (for time not mileage, only 21k miles). Is there anything I can or should due to ensure I'm protected if the new or repaired engine fails within a short period of time yet after my warranty expires?
Thanks much in advance.
#2
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replacement of engine is only done when main seal area is out of round...I've had seals replaced in my '99 and '04...no new motors.
The leaking seal is not the end of the world, but since it is still under warranty, have it done.
There is a new seal and measuring tool to check for concentricity. Also some new epoxy coated bolts should be used on 2 case bolts and 3 intermediate shaft bolts. This is a tech bulletin and if your dealer does not know this go someplace else.
That being said..if the car was NOT under warranty, I would drive it that way until clutch work or some other thing forced transmission removal, then fix it...aslight leak at the RMS is not life threatening. Just don't park on a friends fancy driveway pavers.
The leaking seal is not the end of the world, but since it is still under warranty, have it done.
There is a new seal and measuring tool to check for concentricity. Also some new epoxy coated bolts should be used on 2 case bolts and 3 intermediate shaft bolts. This is a tech bulletin and if your dealer does not know this go someplace else.
That being said..if the car was NOT under warranty, I would drive it that way until clutch work or some other thing forced transmission removal, then fix it...aslight leak at the RMS is not life threatening. Just don't park on a friends fancy driveway pavers.
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...also that cloudy or opaque window can be fixed with elbow grease using Plexus. Rear windows are replaced when they crack...about 1/2 hour or less with plexus can do wonders with the palstic window.
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Dennis is right on the RMS, no new engine most of the time and it's not the end of the world. If you are truly worried about the expense after the warranty, look into an after market warranty. I had one on my 993 and they paid for the RMS.
If your window is really cloudy, I'd recommend using Mequires to clean it. It's work but well worth it. Then maintain it with Plexus-90% of the results of Mequires with 15% of the work. Good luck!
If your window is really cloudy, I'd recommend using Mequires to clean it. It's work but well worth it. Then maintain it with Plexus-90% of the results of Mequires with 15% of the work. Good luck!
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#8
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Plexus is a good maintenance product but if you want to repair your window I higly recommend using Renovo window polish with a orbital polisher or a polishing attachment for your electric drill. Try it under some floodlights or behind the healdights of your other car where you can see the hairline scratches that are missed during the day. Set the polisher(using a foam pad) on a low speed setting and you should be able to remove most of the scratching and scuffs.
Try www.autogeek.net for the Renvo $20
Try www.autogeek.net for the Renvo $20
#9
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Brian - You're getting good advice about restoring the plastic window. One you have it clean again, use Pledge (yes, lemon pledge) to maintain it. Wash as usuual dry with a chamois. Then use a very light spray of pledge and polish. You will be amazed. This is SOP on airplanes and boats with lexan windows.
Best,
Best,
#10
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Yeah i just had my rear replaced, it was cloudy for a while but then a crack/slit formed.
I had it taped up for a while, but it was killing the looks so i looked around for a solution.
Not many shops in my area would touch the work, and a few shops that could were only $20-$30 cheaper so I went with the dealer.
goodluck on the rear window situation.
Also isn't there a way to tell if you have a sleeved engine from the year / vin?
I had it taped up for a while, but it was killing the looks so i looked around for a solution.
Not many shops in my area would touch the work, and a few shops that could were only $20-$30 cheaper so I went with the dealer.
goodluck on the rear window situation.
Also isn't there a way to tell if you have a sleeved engine from the year / vin?