JSG1901

OK, here's the strange question of the week. I recently installed the Bilstein PSS9 system on my Boxster S. Bilstein says you want the rear camber to be no more than 1.5 to 2.0 degrees of negative camber as the car doesn't roll enough to work well with more than that. Pushed as far positive as possible, my car is at 2.2 and 2.3 degrees on the two sides.

The question is, how can I make it possible to get less negative camber? I'd looked at some EVO billet camber plates but they, apparently, only give you more movement in the negative direction, not both ways.

Any ideas?

gates944

please contact me . I will send you some picture from Porsche factory

Email vachongaetan@videotron.ca

You can do it in 5 minutes.

ar38070

You have to watch your toe also. A number of people have reported that you cannot get less than about 2.5 negative camber and still keep the toe in at a reasonable value (less than an 1/8" total). Also you can look at raising the spring plates up. If you increase the ride height camber will decrease.

Also I am not too sure why Bilstein recommends only 1.5 - 2.0. Stock is 1.20' +- 30' which I believe in decimal is 1.33 +- 0.5. Most of the people that I know that have them are running 2.5. I run 2.2 with my H&R's without any issues (3 years). Obviously tire wear can be an issue but everyone here tracks their car so we want the additional camber.

Some of the camber plates will also increase the ride height as they are thicker than the stock plates. The Racers' Group also makes camber plates.

JSG1901

According to Bilstein, the right setup for H&Rs (which I had before the PSS9s) is 2.5 degrees or more...that the H&R setup copes well with more negative camber but that the PSS9s, because they don't roll as much, need less.

I haven't checked tire temperatures yet (but will in a couple of weeks at BeaveRun) but I have little doubt there's less roll with the Bilstein system than the H&Rs, so I suspect they're right about the need for less camber.

I'm not very wild about the idea of raising the car. I have it just a teench lower than the H&Rs put it and anything higher would be, well, too high.

hacker-pschorr

Any reason (copywrite maybe) why you cannot post this info here? I'm curious as I'm sure most others that read this are.

JSG1901

I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post the whole thing here or not, but here's what the section about track testing says (this document is for both the 996 and 986):

The 996 setup works very well. Ride is comfortable in the 8-9 ranges and performance is good in the 4-6 ranges. Normal alignment specs of -1.5 front and -2.0 degrees of camber worked well. Toe is recommended at zero front and 10-15 minutes rear toe in.

986 setup was different. Normally these cars want maximum negative camber when H&R spring kits are installed. 1.5 front and 2.5 rear. However with the PSS-9 kit the car is much flatter and much less negative camber is needed. -1 to -1.5 front and -1.5 to -20.0 in the rear. The excessive negative camber caused severe oversteer and excessively high inside tire temperatures on the track. After reducing the negative camber the car reverted back to its neutral balance characteristics.

My only other comment is I have found the shock settings described here to be inadequate. (9 is soft, 1 is hard) I'm currently running my car on the street with all four shocks set on 3. Anything less than that and I find it bottoming out the shocks over bumps on the highway. On the other hand, the cornering and braking stability is excellent and the car turns in.

Sami951

Hey

Bringing up a very old topic ... how to get less negative camber (in the rear) ? I'm running H&R RSS clubsport coilovers + Toyo R888's with my '00 986 S and there's not much body roll. At first I didn't think the neg. camber was any problem, but now it's starting to feel like the rear tires just don't have proper contact -> nasty oversteer and can't really put the power down properly. They're of course also not wearing out too well..

Thanks for any ideas!!

cheers,
Sami

AlpharettaRK

Aftermarket control arms are the answer for less cambernin the rear. I use Deluboz I think Tarret also makes them. They have miles of adjustment compared to factory.

Cheers
Randy

Sami951

Cool, thanks! To make sure I understand correctly, is it so that with standard adjustments decreasing camber increases toe and it'll basically be too much of either one? Or is it simply that there is not enough adjustment available?

In any case, looks like an easy and not too expensive way to sort this out

AlpharettaRK

Yes to your first part - there is simply not enough adjustment available and you have to choose from too much toe-in or neg camber for the street, IIUC GT3 control arms will assisst in more neg camber but not less. With my car lowered 1-1/2 inches I couldn't get good street alignment specs without the aftermarket control arms.

Sami951

To follow up: I bought a set of adjustable toe arms from a UK webshop, they did the trick perfectly and now I have about the amount of camber I wanted (-2.0) as well as toe-in (0.10 total) in the rear.

Thanks!

(now I just need to figure out a good way to lubricate the new metal-to-metal joints, they seem to squeak a bit ... but it's the price to pay I guess)