Yes, same behavior with either handle. It makes sense that its the door latch mechanism, but I can't duplicate the problem on a test bench. I've ordered a new one, so we'll see.

 

There is a cam that pushes against the microswitch in the latch that gets worn down. RL911 has a good point - the latch without the door bar in it might stop at a different position than when the door bar is in it. So it might test fine outside of the car. I actually kept my bad door latch and happy to test continuity to see if I get the same results - if you tell me which pins (as I'm lazy and don't want to look it up). Replacing the latch definitely solved my issue.

 

Maybe if the new latch doesn't work, I'll have you do that. No need to waste your time yet. I'll post back as soon as I get the new latch

 

Got the uro latch mech today. It doesn’t have the black piece that connects to the threaded screw on the door handle. I’m assuming I just transfer it over from the stock latch mech?

 

That is correct and more reason why you never want to throw away your old parts. Hope all goes smoothly!

 

I am having a simular issue. I am going to try a new Door wiring harness.
I swear it works like an old iPhone charge where you need to put the wires in the exact right position.
Has anyone replaced their door wiring harness? Did it solve your problem?

 

I had been dreading do this, but I’m happy to report that my window drop issue is fixed. However, I had huge issues with the uro trash part.

Installed the uro latch mech and tested everything before shutting the door. Everything seemed to work fine, window stayed down, latch was unlocking. Put the door card back on, closed the door and the door barely would open, it would crack open a little and then I’d have to push on the door and pull on the inside door latch to get it open. So, once opened, I tried it again, but this time the door would not open no matter what. This is what nightmares are made of.

With the door closed and nothing working, how do you get it open? I had to remove the door card with the door closed, two clips on the card by the footwell broke off, no big deal, but I got it off with no other damage. Now, with card off, I’m pulling on the cable and it’s still not opening…wtf.. I’m about to give up at this point or at least take a long break. Reached my hand in and monkeyed with the long piece coming from the handle and finally got the door open, phew!

Removed the uro trash part, cut the switch off and reinstalled it in my old latch. Should have just done this from the start. Reinstalled the old latch, tested it before shutting door, closed the door without the door card off this time, said a prayer, and everything worked as it should.

My advice to anyone doing this is 1. Don’t put the door card on until you are sure the door opens and closes with the outside handle and pulling on the cable. 2. If at all possible, save yourself some time, use your old latch and just replace the switch. It took me just a couple of minutes to get the switch out, cut the wires and solder on the new switch to the old latch mech. The issue with the old switch was the part that the metal blade pushes on had basically broken off, just hanging by a thread.

If I had to do this again, I could easily do it in less than 30 mins, it’s not a hard job if parts only worked as they should.

 

Great news! I had heard the URO quality wasn't the greatest. For those going down this path, look at the link I added earlier in this thread. You can buy the VW version for $50 and transfer the parts over to your existing latch as RL911 has indicated.

 

im looking at the URO latch mech and it’s identical to the stock part from the outside in every way. I can’t figure out why it didn’t work properly. It’s as though the locking mechanism doesn’t move properly and/or perhaps the electronic components inside are not entirely right.