Baxter_Boxster

Hi everyone. Former 928 owner here, and I just bought my first Boxster after a six month search. I drove about ten different ones over that time in order to figure out what I really wanted. In the end, I decided that even though I could afford that perfect 2013 981S with just 8K miles on it that I drove in Crossville, TN (very nice owner by the way and I still keep in touch with him now and again), I'm more happy at this time to have a 2000 Base with 54K miles that hasn't been very well cared for and is also a survivor of a wreck that totaled it in 2017 (it was also fixed in 2017 (a 5 out of 10 job done). I guess I like a bit of a challenge. I was immediately drawn to this one because of the low miles, the price, the exterior color and the wheels. In just a week of ownership it has become MINE. I going to give this older 986 some love that it hasn't had in many years, and as I sort things out and get it set up the way I like my cars to be, I will enjoy the journey.

I'm so glad I chose one of the older Boxsters as a starting point. I probably will opt for a creampuff 981 someday, but for now, simpler, older, slower, more raw is a feeling I'm really enjoying.

Currently mine spits and sputters when first started, and hesitates when pushed through the gears. MAF, vacuum leaks, O2, EVAP, AOS, spark plugs - I don't know - something going on with spark, fuel, air. But man, it is still just so much fun! And the SOUND! Oh my goodness the sound it makes winding through second and shifting into third. I could do that all day. I think it has had the snorkel mod.

I immediately did an oil change on it, as the previous owner said the last one was two years ago. Geesh. It's got a very small oil leak (two drops per night overnight in the garage). The shop that did the oil change didn't want to get into any other work on the car. Scared of it I guess. But they degreased it for me and they thought it was the valve cover gaskets leaking.

Front tires are six years old and still have about half tread, but the car is very twitchy and loose in the front, so two new tires are coming up. I'll match the Continental's in the rear that the previous owner put on just a few months ago. And of course a four-wheel alignment. I hope that gets the steering back to be more controlled and tighter feeling. There may be other front end or suspension issues to deal with.

I need to find a good shop to work on this. Eurotech in Knoxville TN is the front runner at this time - about 90 minutes from me by highway, or quite a bit more by the wonderful back roads we have here in TN.

Here's my current list of things I plan to do:
Diagnose and fix CEL - rough running engine
Fix oil leak (looks like valve cover gaskets, but could be spark plug tubes)
Coolant flush and install a new coolant expansion tank
Brake fluid flush
Clutch service?
Install new spark plugs and coil packs
Install a new AOS
Clean the engine
Check front end components and fix any issues
Check suspension components (shocks/struts, sway bar linkage)
Two front tires, same brand and model as back tires
Four-wheel alignment
Straighten out the muffler
Wiper blades
Front and rear hood shocks
Led interior lights
Clean drains

I welcome any and all feedback on this. Thank you in advance for your thoughts, advice and guidance.

Greg Roberts
Baxter, TN

P.S. - pics provided for inspiration! My wife and I take a roadster out for a ride almost daily. We do "the loop" as we call it, about thirty miles of wonderful twisty country scenic roads.

The only one of the four roadsters in the pic below that I still have is my 2006 350Z Touring Roadster 25k Miles and a few mild mods

elgy

That Boxster is fast! By the time you take a picture it's gone! Seriously, like they say on the 928 forum, if there isn't a picture... it didn't happen.
PS - nice roads.

HartyWags

You should do the IMS bearing, and replace the cam chain pressure pads.

Baxter_Boxster

I've never heard of cam chain pressure pads. I'll have to look into that.

Greg

tcora

IMS, yes. Variocam pads at 40k miles? Nyet.

elgy

IMSB maybe, Variocam pads... worth checking out.
The logic, for me, in the above statement is that a 2000 likely has the double row IMSB and only 40K miles. I would have a look at it and if it is OK remove the grease seal. That is what I have done on two engines.
On the other hand, my understanding is that the cam chain pads originally were made of a less resistant plastic than the newer ones and even with only 40000 miles I would wonder if time and heat cycles have fragilised them. First thing to do is check the cam shaft deviations and look for little bits of plastic in the oil filter. The pads I have replaced show signs of wear plus pieces of plastic chipping off.

ER17

Do you need a clutch? If not, I'd skip the IMS for now. Definitely get those pads when you do the clutch and IMS (and RMS.) I've had two engines down with about 100k and unknown mileage, and the pads were done on both. High wear item. I have about 70k on my 1999 and I can hear them when I start it cold. But it's a double row so I'm going to try to squeeze another 10k out before I pull the engine. I've moved and don't have a lift anymore so I dread that job. With one, it's really not hard.
Those roads? Beautiful, but like Missouri, don't put a wheel wrong!
Good buy and have fun!

Baxter_Boxster

Thanks everyone for your input.

I'm not going to do the IMS until I need a clutch, or until I want a new clutch.

How difficult is it for a mechanic to inspect the cam pads? How much of a job is it to replace the cam pads?

The shop that did the oil change has diagnosed the oil leak is from the valve cover gaskets. I have had other people tell me it might be the spark plug tube orings and not the valve cover gaskets. I had another mechanic tell me that if I have a leak from anywhere in that area I should just put new tubes/orings and valve cover gaskets. How much of a job is this to do? I suspect the spark plug tubes are easier to replace than the valve cover gaskets? If so, and if I'm not sure where the leak is coming from, what if I replace the tubes when I replace spark plugs and wait to see if the leak stops before moving on to the valve cover gaskets?

Greg

tcora

Tubes are a known issue with the early motors. Plenty of available instruction on replacement. I think it’s probably in Wayne’s 101 Boxster projects book.

elgy

I have heard that it is possible to get a peek at the cam chain pads by removing the cylinder head oil pump, but I wasn't able to. If the pads are at the end of their life you will likely find a lot of brown plastic in the oil filter and the cam deviations will be over limit. Changing the pads can be done with the engine in the car, Help me DIY has a video...


I have only done it with the engine out.
This thread takes up some of the same questions that you are asking.

https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...-question.html

The above video shows how to remove the valve covers... which is the biggest part of the getting to the cam chain pads. If you get the valve covers off change the pads while you are in there. There is not a gasket as such on the valve covers, it is a bead of sealant.
Good idea to change the tubes and probably the leak will be fixed.

Baxter_Boxster

Update

I've had the AOS and coolant expansion tank replaced as preventative maintenance. Replaced the MAF and cleared all codes and on the next drive got an Oxygen sensor code, so that's on the list to do. I figure I'll have the fuel filter replaced as well. I had my mechanic change out spark plugs and tubes and now the oil leak is no more. when finished that day, my mechanic didn't connect the clamshell properly and when we opened the top it let go and put two dents in the rear decklid. Uggh. There was a moment of silence as we stared at each other, both disgusted. It's happened, what can you do. Have it fixed sometime.

I replaced my gas cap and ended up damaging my fuel filler door because the tether grommet was too tall. I tried it both ways and just didn't fit properly so I cut it off. I can have that repainted when the rear decklid is done. probably will end up having the whole car resprayed.

I put 18" Carerra II wheels on it and I like the look very much. I found a set for sale for $1,400 that had been freshly painted. I had new Kuhmo PS31 tires installed.

New front and rear hood shocks and new wiper blades.

Removed the offensive decals from the sun visors.

I had the headlights polished and a protective coating applied. They look much better now. Grunge had worked it's way under the old protective coating. I also installed some LED light bulbs when I had them out and discovered that all the internal headlight housing wiring was falling apart. The wire coating was falling off everywhere. it was a five-hour project to put heat shrink tubing over all the wires, which meant cutting and soldering them back together. It's looking like new headlights might have been the way to go. done now.

Next up is some suspension work. A thorough inspection showed most everything in good shape. I'm getting a bit of noise over bumps which I suspect is sway bar links and/or upper shock mounts. I bought the links and found a great deal on a set of Godspeed coilovers. Yeah, yeah, I know, cheap coilovers. If it doesn't work I'll put the stock stuff back in with new mounts. I also bought a set of spacers, 7mm front, 15mm rear.

Overall I'm thoroughly enjoying the car and the process of bringing it back to life.

Greg

Mattrsupplyco

looks clean! What spacers did you purchase? I’m buying a 2000 S this weekend and am placing a parts order. And didn’t consider spacers.

tcora

Ugh. My boxster has the same dents in the same place. Except that I can't blame someone else:-(

Would you share your experience with that? I tried and had less than stellar results - I used rubbing alcohol.

If the noise is from the rear, it's likely the bushings in the track arms. They seem to wear out more quickly than the rest of the suspension, for some reason.

Car looks great!

Baxter_Boxster

I haven't put the spacers on yet, so I don't know about the quality or if they will cause vibrations or not. The pics above are with the new wheels but without spacers.

Here's what I bought

2pcs 15mm BONOSS Hubcentric Wheel Spacers for Porsche Boxster III 981 986 | eBay

(2) 7mm BONOSS Forged Safe Wheel Spacers for Porsche Boxster III 981/986 1996 - | eBay

I like these for the price, the quick shipping which was just a few days, they are hubcentric, and they come with new wheel bolts that presumably are the correct length.

Greg

Baxter_Boxster

I tried different products of different strengths until I ended up at the strongest solvent I have here at my shop called Cleanwoode, which is a mixture of solvents - mostly toluene. Cleanwoode worked well to remove the underside decals, although it was a bit tricky to wipe down and get an even looking finish. The solvent is actually melting the vinyl somewhat! Difficult for me to recommend doing this as you might very well ruin your visors with it. But it worked for me. It didn't not work so well on the mirror visor covers. Looked terrible. So I purchased new visor covers


I was able to get these to snap in over the original tabs, so i didn't need to use the screws. If you need the screws, I suspect it is very tricky to get a hole in exactly the right place to put the screw through.

All in all a very tough job. I'm so glad it worked out for me though. No more offensive government labels to look at every time I drive my car. My Mercedes SLK had a decal on one side that told you to flip the visor to read the warning label on the other side. How ridiculous.

Two inspections and a lot of wiggling and pry bar prying and there doesn't seem to be any play in any of the suspension parts, including the sway bar links. I'm changing the sway bar links because I've heard they are often the source of clunking noise and they aren't too expensive or difficult to replace. I've also heard that shock top mounts go bad and can make noise. The new coilovers will take care of the top mounts and give me the ability to lower the car slightly and tune the suspension. Theoretically at least. We'll see.

Greg