SilverFarmer

Good Afternoon All,

#1: Installed LN spin on adapter today on my 98 Boxster. Torque spec is 18 ft-lb. I swear it bottomed out and then I got the desired torque. I was not overtightening by any means and it is a reliable, calibrated torque wrench. Is this normal for it to bottom out on install?

#2: Preface with not harshing on anyone, just want to double check on answer I received from LN support. I am just skeptical. Dry fit new baffle (LN 106-00.6) to new sump (LN 106-00.14) and the gaps don't make sense. Sorry about the size of the pictures, tech is not my specialty! Other LN baffle/sump instructions instruct to seat baffle rubber to sump. No directions with mine, and no seating at all really. It just doesn't make sense to me. Anyone with any experience on this combination have similar experience? If this is normal I'll accept it and finish install.

Thank you!

SilverFarmer

w.r.t. #2:

Found this image of dry fit. This looks reasonable to me. I understand it is a different pan, but LN states the baffle (106-00.6) is compatible with sump (106-00.14). Not real thrilled!

https://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4760/imagekjkg.jpg

Starter986

Yes. Your pictures are terrible. Sorry. However, I think I know where you were trying to go with it.

OK. You bottomed out and got the desired torque. What does that mean? Bottomed out? Torque? Please be clearer in your inquiry.

You received an answer from LN. What was the question? That may provide us some context.

It should be a very, very, very simple install. Gaps? Yeah... better pictures would help. However, I'm thinking that it's not like you're looking for a perfect seal where no oil can pas through. It's a baffle. It's not holding any oil "in". Nothing is going to get past the pan gasket/seal? Or am I missing something. Is the install more complicated than I'm thinking? For I'm thinking it's a 1/5 stars on the difficulty.

Good luck.

SilverFarmer

Good Morning Starter,

I appreciate the reply. For the spin on adapter it went in freely, no real effort, then just bottomed out - stopped. I think the adapter abutted the housing and the 18 ft-lb torque was reached. I just didn't expect that. Most of my experience torquing involves a gradual increase in resistance and then desired torque is reached. Housing and adapter threads were oil free, o-rings on adapter were lightly coated with oil before attachment. As I said, I was not expecting this so that is why I asked if it was normal procedure.

As far as the baffle in the sump: After finding more pictures of mounted ones, I am certain something is amiss. The rubber sleeves on the metal "arms" do not contact the sump plate as all of the installed pictures show. Directions from Pelican in a Cayman article state contact shoud be made.

As far as the response from LN, in its entirety: "Yes sir. From what we can tell in the photos that looks good to go."

The installation was pretty simple to the point problems/questions arose. A lift would be nice vs crawling around on my back!

SilverFarmer

Hey Starter,

You did ask what my question to LN was and I missed that: It was, in its entirety: "As suggested, I have attached some photos. The gaps all seem off to me? Is this what it is supposed to look like when seated? Thanks for your help. Sorry about the quality of the photos!"

Sorry I missed that!

tcora

Is there some particular reason you haven't simply taken better pictures? You're asking folks to make judgement calls based on them - seems like the least you could do.

As far as the spin on adapter goes, you're only torquing to 18 ft-lb and the interface is metal on metal with an o-ring. Seems right to me.

Starter986

Hey Pal... what do you think about the adapter. OP says he's screwing it on... expecting some resistance as it goes on hand-tight... then the torque wrench. What I'm understanding is that he's screwing on the adapter... and then it just stops. No gradual resistance... just a STOP. That would concern me. What do you think?

OP... yes... share some clearer pictures. I'm thinking the baffles are fine. Not rocket surgery. Just remove and replace.

Cheers Sunday morning!

tcora

I expressed what I think. It's a metal on metal contact which gets torqued to a measly 18 ft-lbf. That's really not a whole lot more than finger tight. Given the fairly coarse pitch of the threads, probably no more than a couple of degrees of movement, although that last is clearly a WAG on my part.

SilverFarmer

Thank you Starter and tcora for the input. Question #2 has been rendered moot. I modified the original plastic baffle (borrowing from a Raby video) and installed the new sump. I was not satisfied with the fitment and hope they take it back! My decision was made on my own sense of fitment and photos I scoured the web for displaying what looks like proper seating.
For question #1: we shall see! I will be installing the filter and filling with oil this evening and checking tomorrow for leaks. If it leaks it can easily be remedied with the original canister.

As for the pictures - ha! I literally took them with a digital camera, I don't have a smart phone. Those pics were the best of the lot! You should have seen the ones I deleted!

Thanks again!

tcora

Sounds good!

Ref #1, some fairly geeky background info. O-rings are not gaskets and they aren’t (at least shouldn’t be - and LN knows what they are doing) crushed. It’s literally been over 35 years since I designed anything with them, so the details escape me, but, fundamentally, you base the amount of “squish” on what it is sealing (liquid or gas), the pressure involved, and the o-ring material you are using (which is typically driven by what you are sealing and the temperatures involved). From that you derive the depth and width of the groove. The torque values I came up with back then related to the pressure involved (3000-ish psi helium in a single stage light gas gun), as it is critical to maintain metal to metal contact on the mating surfaces. For an oil filter adapter, the value is likely more about making sure it doesn’t vibrate loose, while also not over stressing the oil filter boss on the block.

SilverFarmer

Resolution:

#1: Spin-on adapter and new filter installed and not leaking!

#2: Old modified baffle and new sump installed and not leaking!

PP has authorized return for which I am grateful.

After draining for 3 days while working on it, refilling took a bit more oil than I expected. I also did the oil pressure
relief valve kit/upgrade and I have the slightly larger S oil cooler installed.

Thanks to all.

tcora

That’s great news!